Have my OEM waffles for sale. They have Basically brand new BF Goodrich G-Force Comp-2 a/s 255/40/17 tires. Tires have about 6500 miles on them and were put on 9/17/17. These are just spare wheels I use for winter (usually have mild winters so they don't get too much use).
Local pickup preferred, but buyer pays shipping if it comes down to shipping
I just read where the 19 RDX is the 9th worst vehicle to buy due to Turbo issues (first time I have heard this), stop/start issues when car is stopped and engine shuts off, (we have seen this complaint), jerky transmission, (have heard this) and the dreaded infotainment issues. (lot's of complaints).
One wonders if Acura rushed this car to production as this seems like a lot of issues especially when the last generation RDX was so reliable. I can attest to that as I have a 14 and had a 17 and they were flawless.
I am guessing the flaws will get worked out, but aside from great value and good driving habits, I have always liked the reliability of Acura's.
Hello everyone! Recently purchased a used 2002 Acura TL with 168k miles on it, been lurking for a bit here and it seems that I can find just about everything related to this car haha. I do have plans for it so I'll keep you posted on those as well. Looking forward to my time here!
2005 TL 6MT. 201k miles. Bone stock. All regular and recommended maintenance done on schedule according to receipts and records.
So I've had the car for roughly two months. I have a detailed maintenance record from the previous owner and she was a school teacher so I know the car wasn't beat on. The interior is close to mint and the outside is nice too, no clear coat damage, etc.
I have noticed some things that are abnormal and I was hoping some of you experienced people would be able to point me in the right direction on some of these. I don't have access to the internet but only for about 10 minutes a day currently. I typed this up in Word and pasted here. :facepalm: Any help is much appreciated because at the moment I just can't scour the web myself.
1.) My air bag light in the dash is on, no idea why.
2.) My nav screen will randomly re-boot back to the Acura screen and then come back.
3.) Perhaps the most worrying. Sometimes, not always, the car just doesn't seem to respond to the accelerator pedal. I can put it all the way to the floor and barely anything happens. I first thought maybe clutch but the RPMs don't even fluctuate. It's almost like it's just ignoring the throttle. It doesn't always do this, there are times when I attempt to re-create the issue and the car definitely responds and zips pretty good. That's what is throwing me off that it's not a 100% thing.
4.) I get a lot of vibration in the wheel any time I go over 60mph. I have had the alignment done and made sure the wheels were balanced and properly torqued down.
5.) Trunk pops from the button inside the cabin, but not using the keyfob. Other buttons on the keyfob work fine and the battery is new.
6.) When reversing and then moving forward, the side mirrors attempt to angle down and return to position but they mostly just go apeshit in any direction. I disabled the automatic adjustment. Is there a relay or switch that I should be looking at?
I've been experiencing some unpleasant noises anytime my TL is in gear and even more so as soon as I turn the steering wheel either direction. I've had my mechanic take a look and they said the steering rack is starting to go bad. I have no leaks so far but I'm preparing for the worst and would like some guidance on which steering rack to purchase.
The reman ones from RockAuto don't seem like a bad deal but I have no experience with any of these brands. RockAuto is out of stock on all new racks besides the new Cardone one.
There is also this one on Amazon too.
Was driving home yesterday after a dinner out, and the navigation never budged. It kept showing that my car was at the restaurant even when I was nearly home - which is about 30 minutes away. Strangely enough, everything else was working well - music, address searching, etc. It wasn't lagging or stuck on one screen. The navigation even allowed me to search up new addresses, but it never updated the car's position on the map.
I tried turning the car off at a red light, and turning it back on. The same issue persisted until I did the same thing again, but opened the driver's door to turn off the infotainment.
Has this happened to anyone else? It's the first time it's happened to me.
To Start: I'm driving a 2008 Acura TL Base model w/ NAV. 147,000 miles on it and it appears that some things were replaced at the 120k but not the most important things like CAM/Crank shaft position sensors, 02 Sensor, coil pack/spark plugs, etc. I've started to go through the car with my mechanic but I would like to try and knock some of the steps of troubleshooting this issue myself, to save me a lot of money and a lot of back and forth with him.
I was able to pull a lot of information from the ZR15 ODB2 reader I used to scan DTC, but dont know where I can find what these readings should look like when the car is running at optimum performance.
Backstory: I've had issues with the car since I purchased it several months ago and have gone through 3 mechanics before finding someone I can trust. While I'm going to end up having him troubleshoot and fix the major issues. The ones that I can fix myself.(spark plugs, coil replacement, O2 sensors, etc.) I would like to do what I can to save money. I'm about to go pick up a new set of NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs and begin there, but my mechanic is saying he doesn't believe it's the issue and wants me to wait. I would like to see what the guru's here think before I see him again on Monday. I have all the tools to replace the coils, spark plugs and clean the manifold and EVAP cylinder.
I've had misfire's and spark plug/coils going bad on different cylinders and i'm just tired of bringing the car in, waiting to get it back and then only to find that it continues to happen. I drive it for a week or two after they replace a coil/spark plug and as soon as i'm doing 80Mph or higher on the freeway it throws a misfire code again and sputters to the point of forcing me to drive it under 40Mph and not exceeding 3k RPM's to avoid CEL flashing on me. This time it stayed solid as long as i followed those steps and then today all of a sudden the CEL wasnt on when I started the car and it's not idling rough and I also dont feel it sputtering as bad but it's definitely driving more rough than when I got it back from this last stop at the auto shop.
Any help is appreciated greatly and I respect the expertise and knowledge from all of you!
SO here is all the info that I was able to get off the ZR15 - (Harbor Freight Tools ODBII reader that will be released soon that should be around $200)
DTC Codes
1. P0304 - Misfire on cylinder 4. It was 5 and 3 before.
2. P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction
3. P0302 - Misfire on Cylinder 2
4. P0300 - Random Misfire
Suggested issues:
*Faulty Spark Plug
*Faulty Ignition coil
*Faulty fuel injector
*Faulty Fuel pump and/or regulator
*Poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the ignition coil and under-hood fuse/relay box
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the PCM and the ignition coil
*Internal Engine Problem
*Incorrect PCM Idle learn procedure
*Incorrect CKP pattern learn procedure
*MAF Sensor
Performance Readings from the scanner:
*calculated LOAD Value: 74.1%
*Engine Coolant Temp: 190F
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.9%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.1%
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 3.1%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 2.3%
*Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 22(inHg)
*Eng RPM: 2059
*Veh Speed: 35(mph)
*Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder 18.5(°) *Intake Air Temp: 104(°F) *Absolute Throttle Position: 25.5(%)
*Run Time: 127 (SEC)
*Commanded EGR: 36.1(%)
*EGR: 0.0(%)
*Command EVAP 91.8(%)
*Fuel Level: 59.6(%)
*Barometric Pressure: 29(inHg)
*Control Module Voltage or ECU Volts:14.050(V)
*Absolute Load Value: 71.8(%)
*Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
*Relative Throttle Position: 19.6(%)
*Absolute Throttle Position B: 40.4(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position D: 34.9(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position E: 16.9(%)
Commanded Throttle Actuator Control: 21.2(%)
I have 2003 Acura RSX Base Automatic (USA) model. My car was throwing OBD code P0420 which indicated inefficiency with Catalytic Converter. I decided to change it along with both O2 sensors. I purchased following upstream sensor for my car which is:
Denso Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 16.54
Part# 234-9006
The downstream sensor was NTK O2 Sensor Part #24409. The installation went fine and installer checked all connections etc. but my car now throws OBD Code P0134 which indicates that there is a problem with the oxygen sensor that is positioned before the catalytic converter and on the engine bank that houses cylinder #1 i.e. the upstream sensor.
Can you tell me if the correct part was put and what is the cause of the error and how to get rid of it?
Also, do Acura RSX and Honda Civic use same OEM Parts?
Got into an accident and had the whole trunk lid replaced with the integrated spoiler...so now I have this for sale. The paint did crack, but I'm not sure how deep. Will need to be resprayed, and potentially some minor repairs as well. $100 OBO, located in the Bay Area, NorCal. May ship if I can find a box, but that would be at buyer's expense, at which point it may just be more economical to buy new from Endless. Stayed on my trunk for over 2 years with just 3M double sided tape (not included)
I have a 08 MDX. A couple of days ago, it started making a whistling noise when the engine idles and it get more acute as the rpm goes up either by revving the engine up parked or running. Also while running at certain rpm (vibration frequency I guess) I hear a noise similar to when a muffler heat shield is loose and rattles. My suspicion is either exhaust or intake as the noise sounds like air passing through a very small passage (leak). I am almost disregarding an intake leak (vacuum hose or anything similar) since my RPM is stable.
Do you guys thinks this might be an exhaust leak? How do I check this is the case?
As per the rattle, I checked both muffler heat shield and they are good. Maybe another heat shield?
I chose to floor my acura RDX today but up till the 6k rpm mark and then I suddenly got a blinking ECL on my dashboard. I pulled to the side and restarted my car. Note that the car only has about 2k miles on it and I have recently got it 3 months ago. I started driving it to work after restarting the car since I would be late to work. Was the misfire my fault? and would it be covered under warranty?
