Car had been sitting and would be started monthly. Then the battery died and was replaced and after that the whole tech package works fine except the screen wont turn on.
Any help??
Any help??
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06 screen not turning on after replacing the battery
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4g TL Cams??
Hey guys, Not having much luck finding performance cams and other head components. Maybe Im not looking in the right place but can anyone point me in the right direction or have any ideas?
Thanks all in advance :)
Thanks all in advance :)
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Headlamp assembly 2007 rl
Where can we find em?
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Engine Crunching with VSA Activation, then VSA, SHAWD, AFS lights all on
To begin, I even checked the thread about the threads to see if I could find this exact issue.
I have a 2009 RL and just recently Ive run into a recurring problem: either all three of the VSA, SHAWD, and AFS lights come on within seconds of startup, or I begin to accelerate (slowly, straight, on dry ground) and I hear a crunching sound coming from what sounds like my engine bay, while my VSA triangle flashes, and my car subtly jolts around, followed by *ding* Check VSA System *ding* Check SH-AWD System *ding* Check AFS System
The problem does not occur if I disable VSA on startup, but eventually SHAWD and AFS lights come on around 5th gear/overdrive shift. However, before I get to that shift, I have noticed in the SHAWD section of the dash display (that shows the amount of power going to all 4 wheels marked by little squares) that my back left wheel is receiving little to no power at all times, regardless of turning or level of acceleration. Then once the warning lights have come on, of course the failsafe of only powering the front two wheels comes on, and Im back to driving normally, but with no VSA or SH-AWD or power to my rear wheels.
My battery is only two years old and puts out plenty of power (had it tested).
I have an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier installed, but the issue arose before that.
I am thinking of replacing rear diff fluid because Jiffy Lube doesnt replace that with their oil change like they do other fluids.
Any ideas?
I have a 2009 RL and just recently Ive run into a recurring problem: either all three of the VSA, SHAWD, and AFS lights come on within seconds of startup, or I begin to accelerate (slowly, straight, on dry ground) and I hear a crunching sound coming from what sounds like my engine bay, while my VSA triangle flashes, and my car subtly jolts around, followed by *ding* Check VSA System *ding* Check SH-AWD System *ding* Check AFS System
The problem does not occur if I disable VSA on startup, but eventually SHAWD and AFS lights come on around 5th gear/overdrive shift. However, before I get to that shift, I have noticed in the SHAWD section of the dash display (that shows the amount of power going to all 4 wheels marked by little squares) that my back left wheel is receiving little to no power at all times, regardless of turning or level of acceleration. Then once the warning lights have come on, of course the failsafe of only powering the front two wheels comes on, and Im back to driving normally, but with no VSA or SH-AWD or power to my rear wheels.
My battery is only two years old and puts out plenty of power (had it tested).
I have an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier installed, but the issue arose before that.
I am thinking of replacing rear diff fluid because Jiffy Lube doesnt replace that with their oil change like they do other fluids.
Any ideas?
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2018 rdx smells
I have a 2018 RDX which I purchased from the dealership. The car is intermittently emitting a foul odour into the car through the vents. I had always noticed this smell when returning back into the vehicle after leaving it idled as someone stayed in the car with my baby as she slept. The people in the car (husband and mom) on occasions did not even notice the smell while sitting in the car. It was me entering the vehicle from fresh air that the smell is obvious and nauseating so much so that I have to open the windows and turn the vents off. My husband took the car into dealership, they stated car is in perfect condition. Again I have 3 more episodes of this smell. I call the service department and bring the car in. They tell me they examined everything in the car and there is nothing wrong and they replicate the odour. I insist to them there is a problem. I get home and idle the car in my driveway after the service appointment and the car again has a fuel odour in my car. Confirmed by husband. So I took the car back to the dealership and speak with them. They took my car for 2 days and stated they couldnt replicate the smell so they bring my car back to me. We idled the car in my driveway and the car begins to emit an odour. It has been an entire month with no action from the dealership. Any idea what this smell could be and how I can deal with this issue? I am really worried for my familiy's safety while in the car. Even today the car began to smell while driving.
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Accord owner here
Ive been an Acurazine lurker since I bought an 06 6 speed Accord sedan a bit over a year ago. Figured Id better introduce myself and get my post count up a bit, because I have some big plans for the car. Currently I live in Columbia, SC, I have 3 kids, and I got the Accord because I wanted something that was big enough for a family car but still fun to drive. Ive started some light mods, but Im looking to do a j32a3 rebuild and swap in the future with possibly some RL heads/cams. V6P is pretty light on traffic lately so i figure this is prolly the best place for my build thread and any questions.
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06 Accord 6 speed sedan build thread.
I bought the Accord in February 2018, it was in great shape aesthetically with only 90k miles. I got it as a DD/family car and I have already put 31k miles on it. But, coming from an 04 Mazda 6s 5 speed, while the transmission and engine are yards above the Mazda the chassis and clutch are (were) decidedly weaker. So, I caught the mod bug. Started with upgraded front brakes (legend GS calipers with accord coupe brackets and rotors). 19mm RSB from an 03 TL-S was next. Then a new slave cylinder with the check valve delete. Gm synchromesh tranny fluid, RV6 precat deletes, intake resonator delete, and a slightly ported/fully polished intake manifold are the rest of my current mods.
Along the way Ive also done: full timing belt kit with water pump, pulleys and tensioner, did a valve adjustment, replaced a bent rim and all 4 tires, spark plugs, oil pan gasket and one ignition coil. The previous owner didnt do much maintenance evidently.
Altho this thing started as a pretty basic commuter car thats still fun to drive, I have really enjoyed modding the car and learning as I go. Right now the goal is to go full sleeper mode. I have zero mods to the cars look and I plan to keep it that way.
In the next few weeks, the plan is to Re drill the battery support and move the battery over a few inches, and then build a custom 4 intake with the filter next to the battery. Then, fully port and polish the throttle body and runners and finish porting my intake manifold. Also Im planning on doing an EGR delete and probably an oil catch can.
Eventually I want to buy a junkyard j32a3 and replace all the bearings and rings, get the block and crank re-honed, get some RL heads (with the RL cams of course) and port them myself, and basically be able to drop a new engine in the car. Id do a j36 build but I dont want to pay the ~$1500 extra to go thru all the necessary steps to get hondata in the Accord. This is and has been a super duper budget build. Im cutting costs wherever possible. I figure a fully refreshed j32A3 with all my current mods plus ported RL heads with the cams should get me all the power Ill need. I need a new clutch and flywheel soon so I figure I may as well start the engine build soon so it is ready to go whenever I pull the current engine to do the clutch.
Along the way Ive also done: full timing belt kit with water pump, pulleys and tensioner, did a valve adjustment, replaced a bent rim and all 4 tires, spark plugs, oil pan gasket and one ignition coil. The previous owner didnt do much maintenance evidently.
Altho this thing started as a pretty basic commuter car thats still fun to drive, I have really enjoyed modding the car and learning as I go. Right now the goal is to go full sleeper mode. I have zero mods to the cars look and I plan to keep it that way.
In the next few weeks, the plan is to Re drill the battery support and move the battery over a few inches, and then build a custom 4 intake with the filter next to the battery. Then, fully port and polish the throttle body and runners and finish porting my intake manifold. Also Im planning on doing an EGR delete and probably an oil catch can.
Eventually I want to buy a junkyard j32a3 and replace all the bearings and rings, get the block and crank re-honed, get some RL heads (with the RL cams of course) and port them myself, and basically be able to drop a new engine in the car. Id do a j36 build but I dont want to pay the ~$1500 extra to go thru all the necessary steps to get hondata in the Accord. This is and has been a super duper budget build. Im cutting costs wherever possible. I figure a fully refreshed j32A3 with all my current mods plus ported RL heads with the cams should get me all the power Ill need. I need a new clutch and flywheel soon so I figure I may as well start the engine build soon so it is ready to go whenever I pull the current engine to do the clutch.
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p0420 code .. NEW to this 1st post HELP!!!
whats up ? so i just bought a 2006 acura tl 3.2 and i have this code..what are my options to fix this? i was thinking of just having my cat deleted? and if i do that will my car be loud? if so what can i do
to have a nice deep tone but not loud exhaust? i also have the codes p1078 (intake mainfold runner control (imrc) system malfunction (high rpm) and intake mainfold runner control (imrc) system malfunction (low rpm) i just ordereda new oem Actuator assy bypass should be here by thursday to get rid of those codes. is it dangerous to drive with a broken one for now? thanks
to have a nice deep tone but not loud exhaust? i also have the codes p1078 (intake mainfold runner control (imrc) system malfunction (high rpm) and intake mainfold runner control (imrc) system malfunction (low rpm) i just ordereda new oem Actuator assy bypass should be here by thursday to get rid of those codes. is it dangerous to drive with a broken one for now? thanks
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Help Needed! 04 TL ignition issue?
Volume up - Anyone know what part I need to replace?
I thought it was the starter and replaced that but that didnt fix this issue.
I thought it was the starter and replaced that but that didnt fix this issue.
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TPMS System Fault
2012 Acuta TSX Wagon. ~60,000 miles. I have been intermittently, over the last 2 years, getting the TPMS System Fault message on my dashboard. The system works fine either for a week or a few days or even a few months.
Recently it has been popping up almost every time I drive the car and usually within the first 20-30 minutes. It will stay up for the rest of the drive
The sensors are original build sensors.
When the message pops up I do not see any pressures for any of the 4 tires.
When it does not pop I get all 4 pressures and they are correct.
Just now I started the car and the message popped up, but before I could get to the "tire pressure readout".. the message went away and when I did get to the tire pressure readout all was normal.
I am thinking is may be the receiver. They are available. New OEM is Over $300!!! eBay used is under $100.
Thoughts / Insights?
Where is the receiver located?
Where are the initiators located?
Thanks
/Greg
Recently it has been popping up almost every time I drive the car and usually within the first 20-30 minutes. It will stay up for the rest of the drive
The sensors are original build sensors.
When the message pops up I do not see any pressures for any of the 4 tires.
When it does not pop I get all 4 pressures and they are correct.
Just now I started the car and the message popped up, but before I could get to the "tire pressure readout".. the message went away and when I did get to the tire pressure readout all was normal.
I am thinking is may be the receiver. They are available. New OEM is Over $300!!! eBay used is under $100.
Thoughts / Insights?
Where is the receiver located?
Where are the initiators located?
Thanks
/Greg
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Nicks (pits) in headlight covers
I have some pits in my headlight covers on my 2016 RDX. I assume they came from small rocks from the road. Can a good body shop do anything to fix this?
Thanks.
Anovice
Thanks.
Anovice
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WTB Rear Muffler for TL-S.
My XLR8 rear mufflers are failing and I need to replace them. Looking for a a set of mufflers with the quad tips for a Type-S, Doesn't matter which brand*, just needs to be working and decent condition.
*NOT ATLP
*NOT ATLP
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Setting the Default Wiper Position
So I had to have my windshield wiper motors replaced cause they broke on me. I believe the installer set the wiper to high so it almost goes off the window in the part of the movement. How can I set the default position?
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Front Brake Issue (Audible Pop/Click Re-occuring)
Figured I'd see if anyone else has experienced this issue.
So I purchased my CU2 in Oct 2017. Upon purchasing, driving home noticed a audible pop/click when braking or leaving a stop. I deemed it as a bad ball joint, upon further inspection noticed the front caliper slide pins frozen. Up on stands it went, pulled the caliper brackets, cleaned and lubricated the slide pins, reinstalled everything. Good to go...so I thought. Fast forward another 10k miles, same audible pop/click. Having experienced this once before, pulled the brackets again. Guess what? Slide pins frozen. Cleaned, slide pin grease, reinstalled everything. Good to go again...or was I?
Fast forward to yesterday, wife and I went to Branson, MO (about 45 min drive), coming to a stop...does it again. At this point I'm super frustrated. It's been like 8k miles since last cleaning. I opted to go ahead and replace the pads this time. Thoroughly clean with brake clean, q tips, probably over lubricate all the slide pins. Inspected the dust boots, no cracks. Put everything back together with fresh pads/grease. No more noise.
Am I missing something here? Caliper brackets look great, aside from being dirty on the outside. Thoughts?
So I purchased my CU2 in Oct 2017. Upon purchasing, driving home noticed a audible pop/click when braking or leaving a stop. I deemed it as a bad ball joint, upon further inspection noticed the front caliper slide pins frozen. Up on stands it went, pulled the caliper brackets, cleaned and lubricated the slide pins, reinstalled everything. Good to go...so I thought. Fast forward another 10k miles, same audible pop/click. Having experienced this once before, pulled the brackets again. Guess what? Slide pins frozen. Cleaned, slide pin grease, reinstalled everything. Good to go again...or was I?
Fast forward to yesterday, wife and I went to Branson, MO (about 45 min drive), coming to a stop...does it again. At this point I'm super frustrated. It's been like 8k miles since last cleaning. I opted to go ahead and replace the pads this time. Thoroughly clean with brake clean, q tips, probably over lubricate all the slide pins. Inspected the dust boots, no cracks. Put everything back together with fresh pads/grease. No more noise.
Am I missing something here? Caliper brackets look great, aside from being dirty on the outside. Thoughts?
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2019 Hyundai Tucson cross shop
anyone have experience with these cars? i'm cross shopping a Rav4 and these seem to provide more bang for the buck... but i have found some posts that the 2.4L in the Hyundai have experienced engine failure...
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OEM Brakes Findlex
Hi All,
I had a heck of a time installing the new OEM pads on the rear of my TSX. The slider tips of the pads seemed to be a bit too much and I was worried they would seize so I shaved a little off of the top to get them to move freely. The one thing I always thought the pads were made from were Nissin. This is the first time in some 20 years I had an issue installing OEM pads with an issue. I am wondering if the dealer somehow flipped these or is this the new replacement for Nissin? I was also thinking if I should spray-paint the exposed metal that I had to file with a grinder?
Thanks
I had a heck of a time installing the new OEM pads on the rear of my TSX. The slider tips of the pads seemed to be a bit too much and I was worried they would seize so I shaved a little off of the top to get them to move freely. The one thing I always thought the pads were made from were Nissin. This is the first time in some 20 years I had an issue installing OEM pads with an issue. I am wondering if the dealer somehow flipped these or is this the new replacement for Nissin? I was also thinking if I should spray-paint the exposed metal that I had to file with a grinder?
Thanks
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Heads up Display on A-Spec
Does anyone know if you can have a dealer install the heads up display on an A-spec after purchase?
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Home Link-Garage Door Opener Poor Range
Recently noticed that my Garage door opener doesn't raise the garage door unless the car is ~5 feet from the door. Opener is a 10 y/o Craftsman but the Craftsman key chain remote opens the door from 25 feet.
I'm aware that LED bulbs and other things can interfere but this happens when the house is completely dark. I recently got a new HD TV but it happens when the TV is unplugged.
I tried repairing the HomeLink with the opener with no improvement.
Anyone have this problem or know of a fix?
I'm aware that LED bulbs and other things can interfere but this happens when the house is completely dark. I recently got a new HD TV but it happens when the TV is unplugged.
I tried repairing the HomeLink with the opener with no improvement.
Anyone have this problem or know of a fix?
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Roof Molding Trim
My car got beat up pretty badly by hail and the two molding trims that run the length of the roof are dented. Looks like they are about $175 each but Im wondering about removal and installation.
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Does installing seat covers count as a DIY?
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