1st post, just got me an 06 TL with ELS system last week. I've read thru numerous threads about speaker replacement but one thing i haven't been able to clarify is if when replacing the center speaker with a component speaker, is a crossover needed? Pretty sure i read that with the tweeters it is since they're wired with the door speakers, but would tweeters with built in crossovers work? Basically, I'm looking for simple plug n play options for the dash to get better highs.
I have 2014 RLX and it has treated me very well in the last 5 years - aside from the occasional glitch and having to restart the car at a red light to reset the stereo once a season.
Two days ago, the speakers stopped working. There is no welcome tune that plays when you start the car and nothing coming out of the speakers no matter which Source I try. The Bluetooth works with my phone but again nothing out of the speakers. I cannot adjust the volume so somewhere either I have killed a fuse or something like that since the Krell Stereo seems to know that the speakers arent working.
I was wondering how big of problems these are and how much it might be to fix or worth it to throw back on the market or is just a common problem.
I just picked up this car and the engine vibrates heavily between 40km/hr - 50 km/hr and 1000xrpm - 1500xrpm when accelerating. Also notice at highway speeds the rpm's stop going passed the 2000xrpm mark.
A little background, I have a 2012 SH with rv6 jpipe and rv6 hfpcs and I want it louder. I was going to get magnaflow mufflers but then I thought It would be cheap to do a muffler delete and if I don't like it I can then order the magnaflows.
So would hfpc, catless jpipe and a muffler delete be considered straight pipe? Except of course for having hfpc's instead of PCD. If not what else is there to remove?
At first I was 100% sure I wanted to try it. But then the other day I was driving like 5 cars behind a straight piped S4 and it sounded like complete ass. Literally ass, like really loud continuous farting noises. If it sounds like that I will hate it.
Anyways after acura replaces my pistons and rings and such I still think I will do the muffler delete. Any thoughts? Can I consider it more or less straight piped once I get a muffler delete?
The base trim has 9 speakers. Are those 9 speakers the same part as the 16 speaker trims? Does the 16 speaker trims just have more speakers + different tuning/processing? I have no music in 5.1, so I don't believe I'd get any benefit.
I like to check my fluid levels a few times a week to see how the car is functioning. I was told there was a oil gasket leak when I first got the car. I noticed its levels would range throughout the week from reaching the 2nd circle, to not reaching it at all. I got the oil gasket fixed about a month ago and all seemed well - the new oil shows a transparent, light golden color, but now I just checked it and it is not reaching the minimum level again. How could this occur less than a month after the oil gasket leak getting fixed? The color and transparency (due to its recent change) is still the same, and I like to listen to how the car drives with no music playing and I have not heard any unusual sounds come from the engine. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there a chance the shop did a bad job fixing the leak? What else should I be out on the look for?
Hello,
One of my terminals was loose on my battery and was causing the car to want to die when starting. Sometimes it would start, other not. Figured that out and tightened up the terminal screw, all is good in that realm. Now, my radio display is dead, nothing when I turn the car on. I have powered the radio up and can hear it but cant see anything on the display and it does not come on for the backup camera either.
I would assume I have blown a fuse but cant figure out which one coordinates with the display itself and not the radio.
Moddiction Anvil Stainless steel shift knob 2"(50.8mm) diameter shift knob Available in Brushed stainless steel finish. Shift knob weighs over 1 lb! Height adjustable shift knob (10x1.5 thread pattern) Fully countersunk to sit as low as possible. 1"+ lower than most oem shift knobs. Lowered height makes for a shorter throw when shifting. Made from full 304 stainless steel. Made in the USA 20mm opening in shift knob to accommodate many reverse lock-out shifters. Brass threaded insert for longevity and to prevent stripping any threads as some of the cheaper plastic inserts do. ' Brand new.
I just installed the P2R intake manifold spacer but how do I remove the 2 shorter studs that are on the engine side?
Here's a picture of what I mean (The 2 red circles on the top picture) The second picture are the 2 extra bolts that I haven't installed yet since 9 came in the package. 7 bolts to install into the intake manifold to hold it down to the runners and there are the 2 studs that lead up from the runners and 2 nuts go on those from the top.
The stock studs are too short to even put the 2 nuts back on to hold it down (As seen on the last 2 pictures)
Im trying to change my compass zone and when following all the steps in the manual on the step to change the zone mine is stuck on zone 8. I need to change it to 4 but nothing happens when moving the dial.
Any my help with this is much appreciated.
Also have the flickering CAL all the time. Hoping it will recalibrate once the zone is changed.
2019 #8 Touge.ca event @ Shannonville "Full Track" lapping on June 16th, 6pm - 9pm, Sunday evening
Hi all drivers,
Let's shake it down and get ready for the hot season with our #8 event Shannonville Full track!
We have the track 6pm - 9pm, Sunday on June 16th.
We will have a short briefing prior to getting out on the track, followed by a few warm up laps, then lapping for the rest of the day. "Lapping" refers to just that, doing laps. Passing is STRICTLY prohibited except on the back straight, and only when the person in front of you has allowed you by signaling you to pass, No Signal No Passing. We reserve all rights to kick people off the track that are driving dangerously and/or aren't listening to track marshalls.
For those that have never been to the track, we encourage you to try it out, even if you're still on stock/all season tires (they'll suck, and burn up quick, but it's still fun)
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All those interested in attending this track day on June 16th
- FULL name - Your car make, model, year, color - Contact phone# and Email address - Emergency contact person and phone# - License plate# - First time/Novice/Experienced/Intermediate/Advanced - indicate if you need an instructor .
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Helmets are strongly recommended for safety reasons, you will have to sign a disclaimer at the track, for those who do not wear helmet and not following our lapping rules, the participants take full responsibility for their action. (if you have helmets, it won't hurt to bring them up).
All those interested please sign up or email info@Touge.ca ASAP.
Prepay cutoff before June 7th Friday 11:59pm: $99
After June 7th Friday 11:59pm or At the track: $140
Please contact Kevin@ 416-5649999 if you would like to pay the track fee in person in GTA. Whoever wants to pay the track fee by ***- Email Transfer with online banking OR Paypal, the email address is info@Touge.ca
Shannonville Motorsport Park address
7047 Old Highway 2, Shannonville, ON K0K 3A0
Note: Touge.ca Photography will provide you all your track shots and online private photos album.
We do not use other photography company or contract out to other photographers due to our events are private events and all the Touge.ca photographers or authorized photographers and photos with copyrights are reserved to Touge.ca (Touge Motorsports)
I've had so many issues with my RDX I switched cars with my wife for the weekend. She's had C300 5 years. On start-up both ipod and USB stick instantly play music, never gets stuck on 'initializing' or had to unplug like RDX every single time. AC is COLD and left it on 70. RDX on lowest setting doesn't get cold and I still feel uncomfortably warm. Vented seats do absolutely nothing. Tried coming to a stop then accelerating, and there was zero transmission lag (except for some turbo lag), but doesn't bog staying in a high gear like RDX. No brake squeal. Stalk shifter changes gears immediately with no clunking or hesitation. On a slight hill putting RDX in reverse I roll forward every time, once into oncoming traffic when I pulled up to far into an intersection and tried to reverse. Start-stop doesn't shut off engine when parking. RDX always shuts off hitting park then turns back on before hitting power button (guess I could just hit power and skip the park button, but C300 works properly). Burmester system sounds much better than ELS 3D. There's 2 subs under dash and rest of speakers are balanced. RDX has everything coming from the front unless fading to the trunk. Extra 4 rear speakers vs Tech are useless and can't hear any roof speakers even when turned up in settings. Something as simple as lifting wipers to wash the windshield requires a whole maintence button sequence. I regret trading my NX and driving a 5 year old C300 substantiates the RDX quirks. I didn't even get into all the dealer visits and problems (misaligned doors, sagging headliner, scraping wipers, FM tuner replaced) most of which unresolved with infotainment. I've purchased about 15 1st year models and only one other had issues, but nothing as frustrating as the past 8 months. I paid 44k and trade-in is around 37k so I'll likely be cutting my losses when I find a replacement.
We had a female visitor and she came in and later said
I see your X4 out there . I corrected her but just the thought of ZDXs slightly resembling X6 (Mitchell Christensen design influence) or an X4 thats a good thing since those are newer vehicle design and mines a older ZDX 2010. The mark of a great design by Acura still hanging with newer cars.
I am a bit surprised to find that when using cruise control and going down a hill, the car does not brake to keep the selected speed. The car just speeds up due to gravity. I presume all of your RDXs act similarly?
My 2011 BMW 335i did apply the brakes to maintain the selected speed.
I have a reproducible flashing AFS light when I park the car (day or night) with the steer wheel full/hard left. Upon restart I get the flashing AFS light within a few seconds after pulling away from the parking spot. About 5 or so restarts it goes off and stays off. I replaced the level sensor (Dorman) a couple weeks ago for a second time in 6 months and now thinking it might have been this instead of a bad sensor. Parts store warranty replaced the second one.
I saw them branded as OEMassive, Akkon, and Spyder so I don't know what they're called but they look great.
Was wondering if anyone bought them, has pictures, and / or knows if they're any good. In particular, I'm interested to know if the LED strip is bright enough and if the projectors are as good as factory.
My RDX seems to have an overheating problem now. It doesn't go to fully hot, but the temp gauge goes a little bit higher than the middle. I've watched the temps get to operating temperature (90 degrees celcius) then after about 10 minutes of driving and idling it starts to creep up to 95, then back down to about 86 and then sometimes it gets to 100 degrees celcius. I've already replaced the thermostat and did the coolant drain and fill at the same time. There aren't any pending codes or anything. It's always been steady at 90 degrees before this. I feel as if the car drives rougher so I'm suspecting it could be the engine coolant temperature sensor, but this car has 2.
