I and my independent shop have not been able to solve a mild vibration at highway speeds, most noticeable at 50-60mph, but also present above this speed. It comes and goes. Sometimes, it is more pronounced under acceleration, sometimes not. It can be felt from the wheel and the seat. There are no accompanying noises except things like my visor vibrating along with the rest of the car.
I have done the following, in this order:
Rebalanced wheels-no change
Replaced rear bushings (torn-this caused a lower speed vibration, similar to a flat spotted tire, but since replacement, no such low speed vibration.
Replaced both axles-no change, or even slightly worse.
Replaced one bent wheel, and new tires, balanced-modestly less vibration.
Replaced intermediate shaft and rebalanced tires-minor improvement.
Engine runs like a top-definitely not missing.
Again, vibration comes and goes-maybe 50% of the time it's there, and the other 50% it.s not. I almost forget about it or think "it's not that bad", but minutes later in the trip, I am saying-jeez, I want to get this vibration corrected. Makes the car feel older that it is. My wife's 04 Silverado, and the 06 Civic I drove during repairs ride better.
This is a little annoyance that has been slowly getting worse for a few months now. Basically, when I'm going slower (between 15-30mph or so) and rolling over soft bumps or some rough patches in the road, I'll hear this plasticky rattle noise (think electric toothbrush against a plastic cup or trash can) coming from somewhere near the center of my dash. I THINK it's on the external side because it's a little muted, but I have no idea where it might be coming from and haven't had any luck fixing it!
I've been doing some digging on the forums to see if anyone else has had a similar issue, but it seems most of the rattles other users have run into are associated with either the timing belt tensioner (replaced that last November along with a new side motor mount), or the cat's heat shield which makes a metallic rattle. I thought it might have been the timing belt cover because I couldn't get one of the last bolts on there, but then remembered that this noise had started BEFORE I did my timing belt and after wedging a rubber washer behind the one loose spot and securing it it made no difference. I've also tried placing some rubber and washers between the plastic cowl under the wipers to no effect, and didn't really see any plastic parts underneath the car that lost their little clips.
What I'm wondering is where to go from here... could a bad rear motor mount be contributing to the noise? Is there some other plastic doohickey that I might have overlooked that's known for making noise? Do I need to take out my dash and see if sun/heat has cracked or broken something loose in there? If any of you guys have run into a similar noise or issue I'd love to hear your feedback.
Hello, looks like someone bumped into my drivers mirror. The bottom black piece underneath the mirror axis popped off and not the guts ( spring and washers and such ) is hanging out.
the mount to the car is fine, the actual mirror and housing is fine just where the mirror turns forward to backwards... underneath
If you looked at the mirror looking up from the ground there is black plastic piece...that poped off
i cant get an answer from anyone thats definitive.
i have a 2016 ILX A spec and i dont like the shift knob
its autiomatic
it appears that the 2008+ tsx as well as the 2009 + TL have the same type of shift knob. it utilizes two screws and a plastic clip cover, the difference is it has a better perferarted leather knob.
before i waste 86 bucks has anyone on here done this? also any other ideas of changing the shift knob to something cool? i know sick speed has an adapter that can give you a metric thread m10 1.5mm and you can put on a different shifter.
'05 TL. The A/C started acting up. It works the first 10 minutes of the drive, but then blows like it was on vent never recovering until I park it. It doesn't matter if I turn the AC on and off and all the control options inside the vehicle. I replaced the relay and nothing changed. I put some gauges on it and the pressures are a bit low (i think). It's 95F outside and I am reading 40 PSI on the Low side and 180 PSI on the High side.
I'm not sure if the evaporator is freezing up or not. Is there a good way to determine if it's freezing or not? I checked the cabin air filter and it was pretty dirty. I haven't changed that yet.
What are my next steps to troubleshoot? When the clutch is not engaging but should be - do I check the pressure sensor voltage? If it's a clutch field coil malfunctioning, would it be so consistent with working in the first 10 minutes?
Just got my son a 2007 Acura TL Type S AT with 127k. So far he already put 1,200 miles on it since then. Im gearing up on the next fluid change. Engine oil and transmission once it hits 130k. Thinking of going Amsoil. Whats this 3x3 Im hearing about? Hes also complaining about his gas mileage 🤷🏽♂️. Hes not getting great gas mileage lol. His dad probably hitting vtec all the time whenever hes drives it 🤪, ok ok I dont drive his car much. The car is a little slow considering Im used to driving V8s lol. I just want to make sure this car serve him well for a very long time. Any input is highly appreciated!
I have a white 2005 Acura TL. My TL is pretty much stock, and I am looking to add some stuff to it. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what I should do thats cost effective.
My 2008 RL fuel gauge marking letters for full and empty are very faint. Thinking that a bulb may have burnt, when I called dealer parts, the representative told me that there are no bulbs to replace but you have to replace whole instrument cluster costing over 2 grands.
The fuel needle is very clearly visible but letters are not even with parking lights on
A few months back I decided to sell the 00 Acura Integra LS after 7 years of ownership. It was a great little car that I kept reliable and raced autocross in from time to time. Recently I turned 30 and have been feeling the need for something a bit more comfortable when I came across the TL Type-S. I still remember the first time the 3rd gen Tl really caught my eye in 2009 and decided that I'd like to own one one day even though i didn't know a performance sub-model was an option. Long story short, I found a fair deal on an 08 Type-S with 108k miles and a salvaged title. I paid 2k under low blue book, the car was already through safety and emissions with no frame or alignment issues. It had been a california car (even saw the title) and was rear ended and pushed into something on the side also. Multiple panels were slightly damaged so of course the insurance company totaled it. Anywho, its mine now. Black on Black but comes with the typical seat tares and non-working bluetooth issue.
As I type this I've realized I have no pictures of the Type-s... will get some up soon.
Work ive finished so far:
OEM water pump, OEM T-Belt, OEM Pulleys/tensioners and pulley bolt, Plugs, oil change, air filter, valve adjustment, upper trans mount, passenger side upper motor mount, oem thermostat, proper blue coolant change. Will likely do the other mounts, ignition coils and all brakes in the next 6 months.
Current work:
-ATF 3x3 with Amsoil Super Shift. I will be using Amsoil for the engine oil starting my next oil change.
-2nd and 4th gear trans pressure switches are done and helped smooth some shifts out a bit. The 3rd gear switch turns my CEL/Blinking "D" on when I replace it (i've posted in the DIY solenoid thread for the 07-08 tl type s on the issue). I'm trying to figure that out still.
-Clazzio seat skins in black diamond. I installed the front passenger bottom/upper and won't lie...when its next to the original driver seat I don't like them. The seat skins look great online but once installed they take away the aggressive aesthetic design of the seat some. while they are comfortable enough the back does move around (its a seat cover, what was I expecting???) and that bugs me. I may just sell them and pay to have the seats professionally reupholstered.
The 2000 Acura Integra LS 5MT. I purchased this in November of 2011 with 135k miles and sold April of 2019 with 218k miles. Ran mind blowing 17second 1/4 miles haha but held her own in autocross. At one point I had enkei RPF1 with Falken azenis tires stolen off of the car. The insurance company covered that thankfully. Christmas eve of 2017 someone tried to steal the car. Destroyed the ignition but they must not have realized that the 00 and 01 have the immobilizers so the ecu wouldn't allow the car to start. Sad part is I had a viper alarm but hadn't set it that night! Mistakes can be costly. When they couldn't get the car to start they stole the stereo headunit and an old crappy 4 channel amp (my fosgate sub and digital mono block amp where thankfully in the house at the time as i was considering selling them). Still, the insurance covered the car parts but not the audio equipment. after doing the work myself I was able to get everything back to normal including replacement audio equipment for about break even. It happens. Incidentally, state farm charges less for full coverage on the type-s than for liability only on the LS. Must be all of the integra theft issues.
The utah salt took its toll but the interior was beautiful for the age/mileage. I miss the car. The TL is hiding in the back...only picture I have as of yet.
Someday I'll buy another Integra, they are great little cars.
I also like Jeep Cherokees. Didn't hang onto my first 2 for very long but my current jeep I've had for 4 years this month
My first vehicle was a 1991 Jeep cherokee Laredo w/ 130k miles. Pictured with a 4.5" lift and 32" Goodyear MTR's. Very fun vehicle for a high schooler.
Second Jeep was a 2000 XJ. Remained stock, I only owned it for a few months. The 2000 and 2001 crack the cylinder heads between 160-190k due to a casting flaw from the factory. I bought this one with a blown HG and fixed it in the driveway. Wish i'd kept it...was pretty clean.
My third and current XJ is a 98 with 282k miles. It won't die. Just a simple 2" lift and 30" tires works for my overlanding lifestyle.
There were a few Honda Civics and a Volvo S60R (can't recommend) over the years. Currently I also have a VS800 cruiser bike but am selling.
Good times. I hope to add some value to the forum and know I'll get a lot from all of you.
Hi, I own a 2005 acura TL (6mt) and im experiencing a weird issue and need some help. I was doing WOT from 2nd to 3rd and the first time i did it i missed my shift and ended up bouncing off the rev limiter a few times in neutral and the second time when i was in 2nd and i tried to do another WOT, it wouldnt rev past 6000rpm like it had a red line but in first gear going past 6000rpm is no problem?? any ideas??
Its a 12 TL SH/AWD. Its a daily driver with 20s. Looking to lower but dont wanna bounce around too much. I hear that coilovers are a much rougher ride than springs. Prob go with the Teins. Thoughts?
I just bought 2018 RLX Sport Hybrid, has 35000 miles on it, not sure if the previous owner changed any fluids but I want to do them.
My 2008 RL has 3 fluids transmission, transaxle and differential.
I was reading the manual that this car has transmission and twin motor fluids.
I called the dealership to ask and I was told that it is like the 2008, I need to replace transmission, transaxle and differential.
Is he correct?
What is the twin motor fluid?
I am new to the group and did a search but did not find anything on this. I have a 2012 TL AWD that has the reverse beeper as you get close(r) to an object behind/beside the car. Recently it beeps twice then pause, then beep twice over and over even if i am not approaching anything near the car. I have cleaned the sensors thinking maybe they are dirty but that did not eliminate the beeping. It does NOT do this every time i put it in reverse but probably 90% of the time. Anyone else have this occur and advice on the issue and how to fix it? thanks
Hey Fellow MDXers, I have been having a problem with my 2003 MDX Recently. It has 158k miles.. I will be driving along on my merry way and all of a sudden almost all of the warning lights in the dashboard will come on(check engine included). I lose the ability to accelerate. If I turn the car off and back on, then I am able to drive normally again. This seems to be random when it is happening. This morning, my wife had to do this process 4 times within a 5 mile drive to work. I have put Fuel system cleaner in 2 times, which seems to delay the time between when this happens... Im hoping someone out there has had similar issues, and can help with some advice on what the issue might be.
Recently I've noticed when I'm off the gas and near a wall where I get some reverberation I have started hearing a rattling noise coming from underneath the RDX. It sounds like one of those New Years noise makers where you spin it around and it makes that rattling noise I'm trying to describe. Any idea?
Unrelated, or maybe related, recently I got the P2263 emission code "Turbo Boost System Performance". I'd read about this before, and just plugged in my OBDII and reset the warning. It hasn't come back on for about 100 miles, so I'm hoping it was a "misfire" of communication. If you all think I'd better take it in, I'll do that too.
Just looking for thoughts before I make an expensive trip to the dealer.
So as the title states my neighbor parked far to close to my TL and managed to clip the side of my Passenger mirror causing paint transfer on her truck and damage to my mirror. Had to call the cops and get a police report and she finally decided to come outside to see the damage. I havent gone thru insurance but she has agreed to pay out of pocket and I gave her a $294 quote from a bodyshop. You think Im being to extreme for minor damage? How would you all go about this?
Selling my headers for a 2003 CL-S6. These are a copy of Comptech headers that XS-P used to make. This set has the bend in the rear collector for manual transmission cars. It fit with my 6 speed setup with no problems. The exhaust served me well, but I just installed real CT headers. This listing also includes a test pipe with a resonator built in, hardware and gaskets, and an O2 defouler. I can also scan the installation instructions from my CT headers if you need.
