Hi, my name is Rob, from Portland, OR. Glad to meet you all here.
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Hello, I am new here.
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Car won't move w/o seat belt
Started the car in Drive mode without wearing seat belt, car stopped within 2/3 feet and switched to Park. I kind of like it but what if the seat belt goes bad/nonfunction in future?
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massive hesitation on acceleration after braking is driving me NUTS !!
I'm seriously considering trying to sell my lease as I'm so frustrated with the performance. When trying to accelerate after braking the vehicle has a MASSIVE hesitation where it just sits there doing nothing literally for a solid second or 2. Not only being very frustrating it's IMO very dangerous. If I'm at a yield and then need to merge quickly, if I'm getting on a highway from a parking lot, if I'm trying to switch lanes in traffic, etc etc the vehicle just bogs down and does nothing for that 1-2 seconds. I've never in my entire life had a vehicle which did this. I live in NJ so pretty much every driving move I make involves some form of braking and then accelerating due to the traffic here. I think yesterday was my breaking point as I was in traffic and braking and saw an opportunity to change lanes, I had open road and the vehicle in that lane was at least 10 car lengths away but was accelerating fairly fast. Normally it would be an easy, safe and legal maneuver, but having the vehicle bog down for 1-2 seconds while switching lanes made it quite dangerous and probably made me look like an Ahole.
My first thought was something was faulty. I took it to the dealer and had them test drive it and they said it was normal. I got into a long conversation with the service manager who said it wasn't turbo lag, but rather the way the transmission was designed. He also said that running regular grade gas would make it worse, which just tanked his credibility. I did experiment with regular versus premium and noticed zero difference. I only had the vehicle a couple of months so just accepted what he said, but now about 6 months in I just completely hate this vehicle because of the hesitation. On my next service appointment I'm going to make sure a tech rides along with me and see if they think this is indeed normal.
Anyone else seeing this? Drive the vehicle normally, apply the brakes and then right away take your foot off the brake and accelerate. You don't have to mash the accelerator, even with light to moderate pressure you will notice that lag where the vehicle is just sitting there with zero power. If you do accelerate moderately or hard after a second or 2 of doing nothing it will just completely jerk into motion. Does the same thing in all modes, it's actually worse in Sport and Sport+ mode because you get more power after the hesitation.
My first thought was something was faulty. I took it to the dealer and had them test drive it and they said it was normal. I got into a long conversation with the service manager who said it wasn't turbo lag, but rather the way the transmission was designed. He also said that running regular grade gas would make it worse, which just tanked his credibility. I did experiment with regular versus premium and noticed zero difference. I only had the vehicle a couple of months so just accepted what he said, but now about 6 months in I just completely hate this vehicle because of the hesitation. On my next service appointment I'm going to make sure a tech rides along with me and see if they think this is indeed normal.
Anyone else seeing this? Drive the vehicle normally, apply the brakes and then right away take your foot off the brake and accelerate. You don't have to mash the accelerator, even with light to moderate pressure you will notice that lag where the vehicle is just sitting there with zero power. If you do accelerate moderately or hard after a second or 2 of doing nothing it will just completely jerk into motion. Does the same thing in all modes, it's actually worse in Sport and Sport+ mode because you get more power after the hesitation.
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Low Fuel Level Stall on Deceleration
Interesting phenomenon I'm experiencing in my 1998 RL SE... I find that once I allow the fuel level to fall below about 1/8 of a tank, the car will simply stall as I brake at a traffic light or stop sign - or even drive down a steep hill. Once I fill the tank, the issue goes away until I consume that tank again. When filling the tank, the fuel level is not even low enough to illuminate the low-fuel light - and the car takes a full 14 gallons (tank is 18).
I don't see a lot of other posts about this situation, so I'm thinking this might be an issue unique to my car... Any thoughts?
The simple solution, of course, is to fill up at a 1/4 tank... but it seems to me that this is NOT normal behavior.
Thanks everyone!
I don't see a lot of other posts about this situation, so I'm thinking this might be an issue unique to my car... Any thoughts?
The simple solution, of course, is to fill up at a 1/4 tank... but it seems to me that this is NOT normal behavior.
Thanks everyone!
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What years of the MDX does Consumer Reports NOT recommend?
Im considering buying a 2012 with about 90K. Yes, No? Why? Why not?
I definitely remember reading in CR that they do not recommend some years.
Thanks for whatever help you can provide.
I definitely remember reading in CR that they do not recommend some years.
Thanks for whatever help you can provide.
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Greetings from Alberta
Hey, I'm considering an older Acura for my next car and this seems to be the place to be.
I'm currently fixing up/restoring a '96 Nissan Maxima which has lead to two things: I'm learning a lot and getting very comfortable with pretty much any kind of repair, and, the Maxima has given me a taste for its style of 'near luxury' interior. I'm not really a fan of Nissans past about 2003 though so in order to move the luxury needle a bit I think an actual luxury brand is in order. I'm impressed with how much activity there is on this site, I've been spoiled with the community around the Max's and it looks like Acuras have similar support.
Currently I'm thinking of a 2nd gen Legend, 1st gen RL, 1st or 2nd gen CL, or a 2nd gen TL (the horizontal dash and 'floating' center console of the 1st gen TL rubs me the wrong way).
Hoping to be shopping next spring but I thought I'd get myself educated on these cars in the meantime.
-Chris
I'm currently fixing up/restoring a '96 Nissan Maxima which has lead to two things: I'm learning a lot and getting very comfortable with pretty much any kind of repair, and, the Maxima has given me a taste for its style of 'near luxury' interior. I'm not really a fan of Nissans past about 2003 though so in order to move the luxury needle a bit I think an actual luxury brand is in order. I'm impressed with how much activity there is on this site, I've been spoiled with the community around the Max's and it looks like Acuras have similar support.
Currently I'm thinking of a 2nd gen Legend, 1st gen RL, 1st or 2nd gen CL, or a 2nd gen TL (the horizontal dash and 'floating' center console of the 1st gen TL rubs me the wrong way).
Hoping to be shopping next spring but I thought I'd get myself educated on these cars in the meantime.
-Chris
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Pulling to the left at highway speeds
My 09 TSX has been pulling to the left a bit on the highway for a while now, which can be damn annoying on my 120 mile daily commute. Last month I had an alignment done and the tires rotated but the pull is still there. Any ideas what else could be causing this? I am planning on taking it back to the shop to have the alignment checked again.
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Suspension same as '13-'16 Accord?
Has this ever been confirmed? The coilovers I want (Fortune Auto 500) only show fitments for the Accord. Are they the same as a '16 TLX I4?
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Adjust the neutral safety switch/trans range switch?
I recently got my car (2002 TL-P) back from the shop for the AV6 swap and everything is shifting and running great. The only problem I have is that the gear indicator lights on the dash dont illuminate unless the shifter is between gears. This means my reverse lights dont come on in reverse and the car wont go into tiptronic shift mode. Is there a way the switch can be adjusted or do I need to replace it with the used unit I bought?
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Are all 2006 Acura TL 3.2 automatic transmission interchangeable
Hi everyone I purchased a 2006 Acura TL with 223,000 miles I did a 3x1 transmission fluid change now the transmission wont go in any gear I located a 2006 tl in the salvage yard that was smashed in the front it has 158,000 miles on the windshield and the engine and transmission appears to be in good shape checked the transmission oil and it looks really good my tl is a automatic with a slapstick and the tl in the salvage yard is a automatic without the slapstick can someone tell me if this engine and transmission is interchangeable with mines thanks the salvage yard sells the engine for $300 and the transmission for $170 thanks
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Engine Swap
Just a question. I have a 05 auto TL and have done all 105k service. Change oil on time all the time. 121k. I take care of this car very well. Car drives very smooth. I have the very very annoying knock/tick when idle and up to about 1800rpm. I thought the valve adjustment would solve it but didnt. So my pops got a 2001 cl type s w/ 122k that is very quiet and smooth but he rarely uses the car. He offered to swap with me, but we dont know much and there isnt much info. I read his is a J32A1 and the TL is J32A3. Does anyone know if I could swap it? I dont care about losing some power or whatever, I just cant stand the ticking. Like I said its just a question. Id appreciate any info. Thank you.
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2002 RL with poor gas mileage and missing upper cover steering columnpart
So I have had a 2002 RL i bought from my brother for about 4 years- i have liked the car but am ready to move on.
last year the mpg degraded horribly, getting about 13 MPG hiway.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what is causing this? Already had mechanic change spark plugs and clean injectors, i am thinking maybe oxygen sensors? Before I take it to acura dealer for $149 diagnostic, i would welcome any input!!
In addition there has been a long term whine in the transmission, which is most noticeable under 30mph and then again around 65 MPH. A mechanic told me there was an Acura update regarding this issue and added something to transmission fluid, but i didnt notice any long term change.
There was also a dead odometer panel for a long time- I just got that fixed, but in the process, they broke the cover piece for the steering column. it now looks like the pics below.
I think I need to get this part, can anyone confirm?
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...=pd:1308499,14
TY for your help!!
missing piece pic
additional pic
last year the mpg degraded horribly, getting about 13 MPG hiway.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what is causing this? Already had mechanic change spark plugs and clean injectors, i am thinking maybe oxygen sensors? Before I take it to acura dealer for $149 diagnostic, i would welcome any input!!
In addition there has been a long term whine in the transmission, which is most noticeable under 30mph and then again around 65 MPH. A mechanic told me there was an Acura update regarding this issue and added something to transmission fluid, but i didnt notice any long term change.
There was also a dead odometer panel for a long time- I just got that fixed, but in the process, they broke the cover piece for the steering column. it now looks like the pics below.
I think I need to get this part, can anyone confirm?
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...=pd:1308499,14
TY for your help!!
missing piece pic
additional pic
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June 2nd Sunday Shannonville Full track lapping event 6pm - 9pm #7 event Touge.ca
2019 #7 Touge.ca event @ Shannonville "Full Track" lapping on June 2nd, 6pm - 9pm, Sunday evening
Hi all drivers,
Let's shake it down and get ready for the hot season with our #7 event Shannonville Full track!
We have the track 6pm - 9pm, Sunday on June 2nd.
We will have a short briefing prior to getting out on the track, followed by a few warm up laps, then lapping for the rest of the day. "Lapping" refers to just that, doing laps. Passing is STRICTLY prohibited except on the back straight, and only when the person in front of you has allowed you by signaling you to pass, No Signal No Passing. We reserve all rights to kick people off the track that are driving dangerously and/or aren't listening to track marshalls.
For those that have never been to the track, we encourage you to try it out, even if you're still on stock/all season tires (they'll suck, and burn up quick, but it's still fun)
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All those interested in attending this track day on June 2nd
And Email info@Touge.ca with your info below:
- FULL name
- Your car make, model, year, color
- Contact phone# and Email address
- Emergency contact person and phone#
- License plate#
- First time/Novice/Experienced/Intermediate/Advanced - indicate if you need an instructor .
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Helmets are strongly recommended for safety reasons, you will have to sign a disclaimer at the track, for those who do not wear helmet and not following our lapping rules, the participants take full responsibility for their action. (if you have helmets, it won't hurt to bring them up).
Track Packages and Deals:
Touge.ca - Touge Motorsports, All about Cars, Track, Drivers, and Motorsports - Touge.ca
All those interested please sign up or email info@Touge.ca ASAP.
Prepay cutoff before May 26th Friday 11:59pm: $99
After May 26th Friday 11:59pm or At the track: $140
Please contact Kevin@ 416-5649999 if you would like to pay the track fee in person in GTA. Whoever wants to pay the track fee by ***- Email Transfer with online banking OR Paypal, the email address is info@Touge.ca
Shannonville Motorsport Park address
7047 Old Highway 2, Shannonville, ON K0K 3A0
For all other enquires, details and schedule, please check out Touge.ca - Touge Motorsports, All about Cars, Track, Drivers, and Motorsports - Touge.ca
Note: Touge.ca Photography will provide you all your track shots and online private photos album.
We do not use other photography company or contract out to other photographers due to our events are private events and all the Touge.ca photographers or authorized photographers and photos with copyrights are reserved to Touge.ca (Touge Motorsports)
Hi all drivers,
Let's shake it down and get ready for the hot season with our #7 event Shannonville Full track!
We have the track 6pm - 9pm, Sunday on June 2nd.
We will have a short briefing prior to getting out on the track, followed by a few warm up laps, then lapping for the rest of the day. "Lapping" refers to just that, doing laps. Passing is STRICTLY prohibited except on the back straight, and only when the person in front of you has allowed you by signaling you to pass, No Signal No Passing. We reserve all rights to kick people off the track that are driving dangerously and/or aren't listening to track marshalls.
For those that have never been to the track, we encourage you to try it out, even if you're still on stock/all season tires (they'll suck, and burn up quick, but it's still fun)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All those interested in attending this track day on June 2nd
And Email info@Touge.ca with your info below:
- FULL name
- Your car make, model, year, color
- Contact phone# and Email address
- Emergency contact person and phone#
- License plate#
- First time/Novice/Experienced/Intermediate/Advanced - indicate if you need an instructor .
---------------------------------------------------------
Helmets are strongly recommended for safety reasons, you will have to sign a disclaimer at the track, for those who do not wear helmet and not following our lapping rules, the participants take full responsibility for their action. (if you have helmets, it won't hurt to bring them up).
Track Packages and Deals:
Touge.ca - Touge Motorsports, All about Cars, Track, Drivers, and Motorsports - Touge.ca
All those interested please sign up or email info@Touge.ca ASAP.
Prepay cutoff before May 26th Friday 11:59pm: $99
After May 26th Friday 11:59pm or At the track: $140
Please contact Kevin@ 416-5649999 if you would like to pay the track fee in person in GTA. Whoever wants to pay the track fee by ***- Email Transfer with online banking OR Paypal, the email address is info@Touge.ca
Shannonville Motorsport Park address
7047 Old Highway 2, Shannonville, ON K0K 3A0
For all other enquires, details and schedule, please check out Touge.ca - Touge Motorsports, All about Cars, Track, Drivers, and Motorsports - Touge.ca
Note: Touge.ca Photography will provide you all your track shots and online private photos album.
We do not use other photography company or contract out to other photographers due to our events are private events and all the Touge.ca photographers or authorized photographers and photos with copyrights are reserved to Touge.ca (Touge Motorsports)
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WTB: 04-07 TL Front Towing Hook in Abyss Blue Pearl (B527P)
As title. I don't want to spend $100 to buy a brand new one. If anyone got one for sale or saw it at your local post (for parts on CL), can you pick one up for me? I will PayPal you after!
While you are looking at this, if you have the plastic cover for engine/battery, you might as well shoot me a message as well.
Much thanks!
PS: If I purchase one on my own, I will delete this right away.
While you are looking at this, if you have the plastic cover for engine/battery, you might as well shoot me a message as well.
Much thanks!
PS: If I purchase one on my own, I will delete this right away.
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Road trip report
We just completed a 3 day weekend trip from Tucson. AZ to Orange County, CA. using I-8 and I-5
Starting Tucson elevation ~2,600 ft
Lowest elevation "a few feet below sea level" (don't remember exactly!) just west of El Centro, CA (Interstate 8 is the only US Interstate Highway to run below sea level!)
A couple of mountain passes at ~4,400 ft.
Elevation at destination ~200 ft
Highway speeds generally set with ACC at 3-5 mph over posted. (75 mph posted in most of AZ, 70 and 65 posted in CA). Maybe 20-25 miles on surface streets at destination.
Comfort mode, tire pressures at manufacturer's specs, using regular gas, 2 passengers, Climate Control on manual with A/C off, set to 58 degrees (to allow Idle-stop to function).
(we're having an extremely cool May here, highs in the 70s when it should be 100...delightful!)
Some heavy rain for the first 45 minutes leaving the San Diego area and climbing up the mountains toward AZ on Monday morning.
Starting Odometer: 4,126
Ending Odometer: 5,295 = 1,169 miles.
Gas consumed: 41.6 gallons of regular 87 octane ($2.65/gallon at Costco in Tucson $2.99 at Sam's Club in Yuma, AZ $3.69 at Costco in N County, San Diego)
Average for this trip: 28.1 mpg.
I am very impressed with how the RDX Advance FWD drove and performed. Very comfortable, quiet, and with great sounds! There are some significant grades, which were handled with ease, both up and down, speed never went more than 5 mph over set speed on downgrades. ACC works extremely well, as does LKAS.
Both wife and I have "sensitive" backs, and neither of us experienced any back pain at all.
Absolutely no issues with Infotainment system, using SiriusXM radio, and Samsung S8 connected via bluetooth. Several phone calls both in and out were fine... as expected.
BTW, today is my RDX's 4 month birthday. Only issue to date has been soft brake pedal, resolved by TSB.
I encourage others to post their road trip info in this thread...
Starting Tucson elevation ~2,600 ft
Lowest elevation "a few feet below sea level" (don't remember exactly!) just west of El Centro, CA (Interstate 8 is the only US Interstate Highway to run below sea level!)
A couple of mountain passes at ~4,400 ft.
Elevation at destination ~200 ft
Highway speeds generally set with ACC at 3-5 mph over posted. (75 mph posted in most of AZ, 70 and 65 posted in CA). Maybe 20-25 miles on surface streets at destination.
Comfort mode, tire pressures at manufacturer's specs, using regular gas, 2 passengers, Climate Control on manual with A/C off, set to 58 degrees (to allow Idle-stop to function).
(we're having an extremely cool May here, highs in the 70s when it should be 100...delightful!)
Some heavy rain for the first 45 minutes leaving the San Diego area and climbing up the mountains toward AZ on Monday morning.
Starting Odometer: 4,126
Ending Odometer: 5,295 = 1,169 miles.
Gas consumed: 41.6 gallons of regular 87 octane ($2.65/gallon at Costco in Tucson $2.99 at Sam's Club in Yuma, AZ $3.69 at Costco in N County, San Diego)
Average for this trip: 28.1 mpg.
I am very impressed with how the RDX Advance FWD drove and performed. Very comfortable, quiet, and with great sounds! There are some significant grades, which were handled with ease, both up and down, speed never went more than 5 mph over set speed on downgrades. ACC works extremely well, as does LKAS.
Both wife and I have "sensitive" backs, and neither of us experienced any back pain at all.
Absolutely no issues with Infotainment system, using SiriusXM radio, and Samsung S8 connected via bluetooth. Several phone calls both in and out were fine... as expected.
BTW, today is my RDX's 4 month birthday. Only issue to date has been soft brake pedal, resolved by TSB.
I encourage others to post their road trip info in this thread...
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Looking at purchasing a 2009-2014 Tsx
Hey guys Im new here , just parted ways with my work vehicle and looking to make a purchase of the 2009-2014 tsx, Ive been looking around lately and have a few questions. Ive noticed from one model specially thats a Navi with backup camera package had side skirts and a more aggressive front bumper and rear bumper which sits lower and I dont know what package it is as I dont see it often. I was also comparing it to the aspec kit which oddly enough doesnt have Navi or the backup camera but super nice comfy interior with a darker headliner. Basically Im trying to find out if the more aggressive style body that comes from factory was not very common or is it aftermarket ? Kinda looks like modulo kit ? Did it come factory as an option?
Modulo bumper ? From factory ?
Modulo bumper ? From factory ?
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Startup Issue Fixed
I cannot find my original post, but I was having an issue with my 2003 Acura CL Type-S on startup. It would turn over, go up to about 1,000 RPMS, then shoot down to about 300RPMs and often times stall, when it didn't stall it would jump to 1200 RPMS and slowly drop down to 800-1000 RPMs. I recently replaced the alternator and that fixed the issue completely. I hope that this helps somebody out there!
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2007-2008 SH-AWD and check engine light
Ok...I have read many posts online about the SHAWD light coming on. And there are endless people writing about it, everyone seems to have a different fix, or does not have a clue why the light comes on. I think its because unless you really pay attention to the variables, you would never know it could be happening from this...
I have a 2007 RDX, with 153K miles. The car runs great, as I maintain it very well. The SHAWD light along with the check engine light came on as I was driving home from Atlantic City, NJ. I usually visit AC, twice a month or more. I rarely fill up my gas tank prior to going, thinking I can always get gas on the way home. I usually get gas from the same place all the time. I use Mobil, sometimes BP. I do not put cheap gas in my car. The RDX calls for super, 93-94 octane fuel. There is no way around this.
The SHAWD would only come on as I drove home from Atlantic City, back towards NY. I found this very odd, as it has done this 6X so far. If you restart the car the SHAWD light always goes away, however the check engine light will go away after A few starts. Whatever the factory has set that up. This was insane, because the SHAWD never comes on in NY. I was thinking at first how on earth can the light come on only as Im driving home from AC, and never while Im going. I was thinking maybe the air is more dense, etc. Then I realized, as I come home from AC, I always stop for gas...I fill up with Sunoco. All the gas stations going from NY to the Jersey Shore are all Sunoco. As they must have a contract. This makes me think that the gas they sell is either not super...I use 93, however that does not mean just because I tell them to use 93, I get 93. I feel a loss of power after I fill up. Either these cars are very sensitive to the gas you use, or these Sunoco stations are crooks. They may figure, lets sell cheap quality gas, maybe with a higher ethanol than allowed. And since these cars have a turbo, once you hit the gas pedal, the car is not burning the fuel the right way, and triggers the light to come on. If I dont go to AC, the SHAWD never comes on. As I always use Mobil gas. If your car is triggering this light and you fill up at Sunoco, or Pilot, or some cheap gas station, try using Mobil or BP, and see if your light still comes on. If it doesnt there is the problem...
I have a 2007 RDX, with 153K miles. The car runs great, as I maintain it very well. The SHAWD light along with the check engine light came on as I was driving home from Atlantic City, NJ. I usually visit AC, twice a month or more. I rarely fill up my gas tank prior to going, thinking I can always get gas on the way home. I usually get gas from the same place all the time. I use Mobil, sometimes BP. I do not put cheap gas in my car. The RDX calls for super, 93-94 octane fuel. There is no way around this.
The SHAWD would only come on as I drove home from Atlantic City, back towards NY. I found this very odd, as it has done this 6X so far. If you restart the car the SHAWD light always goes away, however the check engine light will go away after A few starts. Whatever the factory has set that up. This was insane, because the SHAWD never comes on in NY. I was thinking at first how on earth can the light come on only as Im driving home from AC, and never while Im going. I was thinking maybe the air is more dense, etc. Then I realized, as I come home from AC, I always stop for gas...I fill up with Sunoco. All the gas stations going from NY to the Jersey Shore are all Sunoco. As they must have a contract. This makes me think that the gas they sell is either not super...I use 93, however that does not mean just because I tell them to use 93, I get 93. I feel a loss of power after I fill up. Either these cars are very sensitive to the gas you use, or these Sunoco stations are crooks. They may figure, lets sell cheap quality gas, maybe with a higher ethanol than allowed. And since these cars have a turbo, once you hit the gas pedal, the car is not burning the fuel the right way, and triggers the light to come on. If I dont go to AC, the SHAWD never comes on. As I always use Mobil gas. If your car is triggering this light and you fill up at Sunoco, or Pilot, or some cheap gas station, try using Mobil or BP, and see if your light still comes on. If it doesnt there is the problem...
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2005 RL Navigation DVD Drive Question
Hello all,
I have a 2005 RL with the ubiquitous failed Navi DVD Drive. I am contemplating using a later version of the DVD Drive so that I can have the Navi working again, as I find it useful. Apart from the Drive and Anti-theft code, what else do I need? At the moment I have just the original DVD maps that came with the car. Do I need a more recent DVD or any other updates to make this stuff work? I ask all this to decide if getting it all working is cost effective or not.
Thanks in advance for all and any help.
Neil M.
I have a 2005 RL with the ubiquitous failed Navi DVD Drive. I am contemplating using a later version of the DVD Drive so that I can have the Navi working again, as I find it useful. Apart from the Drive and Anti-theft code, what else do I need? At the moment I have just the original DVD maps that came with the car. Do I need a more recent DVD or any other updates to make this stuff work? I ask all this to decide if getting it all working is cost effective or not.
Thanks in advance for all and any help.
Neil M.
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Best years for 4G TLs
I've currently got an 07 RDX and a 08 MDX, but I really miss my 3G 06TL-6MT. Thinking I would like to have a nice sedan again.
The 3Gs are just too old now, but I have finally sort of made peace with the looks of the 4G.
If one was interested in a 4G TL,(SH-AWD) what would be the best or safest years to get, if there is such a thing?
I know some years the 3.7 has oil burning issues, generally what are those years? (our 08 MDX 3.7 has no oil burning issues)
I'd love a 6MT, but know I'd never find one, so I guess I might be able to settle for an auto as long as it is SH-AWD
The 3Gs are just too old now, but I have finally sort of made peace with the looks of the 4G.
If one was interested in a 4G TL,(SH-AWD) what would be the best or safest years to get, if there is such a thing?
I know some years the 3.7 has oil burning issues, generally what are those years? (our 08 MDX 3.7 has no oil burning issues)
I'd love a 6MT, but know I'd never find one, so I guess I might be able to settle for an auto as long as it is SH-AWD
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