The Vermont Castings grill I bought here :rona: https://acurazine.com/forums/home-ga...-313445/page2/
is giving up the ghost. It's rusting out and the regulator just gave up. VC doesn't make grills anymore. :sad:
It does not seem like there are many choices available in my price range ($400-$500). I'm considering the Weber Spirit II e-310. Anything else in this range I should be looking at? I got 12 years out of the last one, I want something that will last 10+ years.
I don't feel the need to step up to the Genesis. I mainly do burgers and chicken breast and my VC was good at that.
I did some tooling around and couldn't find much information about the 2019 subwoofer and or how to get to it so I figured I'd save future me's the trouble. Initially I'll just dive straight in to how to get to the sub and then at the end I'll discuss the direction I will be going. Just a warning, this post will be image intensive for those on their phones.
First of all, stop tugging on the subwoofer cover cause that shit ain't gonna pop off. This is what the back side of the cover looks like.
1. Remove all the junk from your trunk
2. Remove all four of your tie downs. Pry up the center cover which will expose a phillips head screw. Use a good size phillips head or you'll probably strip it. I used an impact drill because lazy.
3. With the tie downs removed you can remove the entire rail simply by pulling straight up.
4. With the rails removed the entire tub and tub cover can be pulled straight up all together. Pull it up by prying slowly on each corner. There are clips here and there that you will feel release. They aren't holding it very tightly.
5. Feel accomplishment
6. Pull straight up on the entryway sill to disconnect it from its clips.
7. Remove the cover behind the rear right seat release handle by pushing that little nub down and pulling it straight out. I leave OEM plastic covers on things cause it triggers people. I hope I had an impact here.
8. Remove the two phillips screws behind the cover.
9. Remove this plastic bolt by hand before you go tugging on shit. It's at the base of the fiber board just below the handle you were just working on.
10. I found it easiest to start tugging on the top right and working inward toward the rear seats.
11. Keep tuggin
12. Now walk up front to the passenger side rear seat and remove this tiny cover. Its at the base of the seat belt. Its not really held in by much as long as you pull it straight up.
13. I didn't find it necessary to remove the cover much more than what you see here. You can push the entire thing out of your way and if you go beyond this point you'll need to disconnect the seat release cable which really isn't necessary.
15. The amp cover has 5x 10mm bolts. You'll need to remove this before you can get the sub out. But you're super smart like me and will try anyways. So skip this step and go straight to step 14 then come back to this step when you're ready.
14. Disconnect the sub cable there in white and remove its 2x 10mm nuts and 1x 10mm bolt. Wrestle with the box for 15 minutes then finally remove the amp cover already discussed.
And you're done. When you are ready to reassemble you can use this guide by scrolling back up slowly and turning bolts right rather than left.
Below are a bunch of images I figured I'd want if I were me. The sub box depth is not even on the back side so the sub dept probably cant be much more that what it is.
Label on the sub explains why I want more bass
Amp shot
Where I have decided to place a new sub, The space is about 10x13x9"
The cover has a small channel from the front bucket to back bucket just begging to have a speaker cable running through it
From the backseat facing straight back you'll see there are several grommets that would be perfect for power to be ran.
And that's it for now. I'll post when I finish the install. I figured i'd get a conversation going to see if someone had better ideas.
i have an 18 Mdx. I want to take apart the wood center console sliding tray and install a wireless charger. Anyone do so or know how to open it all up?
Looking for some info or help on d.i.y. to fix a problem.
A/C works just fine; cold/hot air comes out no problem. The issue is that air is only coming out of the driver-side top center and left side (by window) vent; no air is blowing out of the passenger-side top center and right side vent. Also notice that only the return vents under the passenger side is taking in air; the return vent under the driver side is not taking in air. I suspect that a vent/flap actuator has gone bad but how do check to fix and also where in the car are they located for me to get at. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Ive used an envelope-style cargo net before, but its surprisingly not available for the RDX. I just need something to keep groceries from rolling around. Does anyone know if it can be stored underneath the rear cargo floor and is it easy to install/uninstall?
I just took delivery of my Advance AWD last Saturday and this caught me by surprise. Any other suggestions would also be appreciated.
I am in serious need of a solution to re-attaching my body side moldings on my 08 TL. I know they have been discontinued, what I really need is the template that came with the molding kit so I have a guide to re-attach. The passenger side rear was falling off so I took it off and also removed the front piece as well so it didn't look stupid. Now I am having a hard time getting them lined back up. Also, the front piece is a bit warped so I def need a straight line reference to get it back on straight. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
Hello everyone, been awhile since I posted anything here, went from my 06 tl dynamic which I bought brand new, sold it, bought a 98 NSX, guy on a bicycle cut off my son and I, that car is gone, bought a 370z Nismo, sold it and back to a 07 tl type S. Looking for a drop on my car, had a setup on my old car, Koni yellow's and Tein SS springs. Was a wicked setup. Got something? Let me know. Email me at arvpatti@hotmail.com, faster than sending me a message on zine. Thanks.
Hello everyone, just need some help because my Acura TL nav isnt working after installing a new pioneer radio..someone can help me with this..thank you After this screen the nav turn off and dont let me do anything..the touch screen is not working..
Anyone heard or read about this being done? I have an '88 CRX-Si that would love a bigger motor and my 2006 TL is losing its value exponentially. So what better way to make it worth more than an engine swap! Input?
I want to get some better sound from 2015 TLX. Do I take it to my friend at the exahaust shop and have pipes welded in place of the resonators? Do I put in a set of Borla or Magnaflow mufflers or resonators? Don't want to spend a bundle, would like to just have my car sound like a nice v6 (think a v6 Camaro, the new RS sounds awesome) ...
Bought a used 2008 RL technology package yesterday. Only one key fob Driver 1 came with the car.
Fob locks and unlocks door but does not open door with handle pulled.
With door open with fob remote, I get message Welcome but not welcome driver 1
I had to use the acura inflator kit sealant for the first time and when I brought it to discount tire so they can repair my tire tire has a nail in it but they say that you never ever want to use still sealant/fix a flat type because its going to ruin your tire and rims and TPMS sensor.. is it true I never had to use it until now.. any information about Acura inflator will help.. if it causes damage why does Acura has them instead of a spare tire??
Is it possible to save or preset a mix of FM, Sirius, and AM, stations, so that I can easily scroll thru them via the steering wheel (without having to change from FM to Sirius to AM to do it)? Also, if yes, how many can you save? On my current Lexus RX, I can save up 36 mixed type stations. Thank you.
I purchased an OEM remanufactured alternator. Was about $210. Thought about rebuilding my old one, as something fun to so, but... We'll see. I've got some time to return my "core".
Needed 10mm,12mm,14mm sockets. Deep/standard sockets, and some extensions. Tool for tensioner.
For rotating the tensioner, I used the tool loaner program from autozone. $30 and I can return it or keep it. Very handy.
A lot of videos show the tensioner being held back by using the belt tied to the wrench and a location on the car.
Please don't do that! Use the method shown in the second video, with the Allen wrench inside the hole.
You are just begging for broken or severed fingers if the socket falls off the pulley and your fingers are in that area.
Alternator bolts: For the lower bolt, you'll start with a longer socket. Before you box yourself in, switch to a regular socket... Otherwise you'll find the ratchet against metal and you can't do anything. You would have to reverse and put the bolt back in some to remove your tool. I didn't quite get that far, but just a heads up. Upper bolts, pretty simple. Remove both.
Service manual I looked at (2010) and some guides call for removing the fan. I planned on this method until one of the bolts on the TOP broke. Even after lubing it up. I wasn't going to chance the bottom bolts breaking, so the fan stayed in there. Definitely would have been way easier to complete the task if the fan came out.
The video shows them bending the AC hose out of the way. I wasn't about to break something, so it stayed unbent. Bend at your own risk.
I opted to disconnect and remove the ECU. Two bolts and a retaining clip for tube. Three connectors. This allows you to pull the alternator out from the side without bending the AC line, or removing the fan.
The zip tie (purple) was a pain. Lift on the tab and wiggle the wire until it is free. You can push on the end if you want, but keep that tab lifted. Other connections were easy.
A lot of pulling and rocking helped in the removal.
I'll add if I remember any other points of interest. I'd post pictures, but the videos do a decent job.
