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Engine Cranks...sort of... Won't Start

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2011 TL SHAWD

Yeah, it's a long read.... Sorry.

So, I had an issue with my positive battery cable, where it was so corroded at the battery, it wasn't making great connection. When attempting to remove the battery cable, the nut was rusted, so the copper clamp just basically ripped, making the connection intermittent. I'd have to get under the hood occasionally and twist the connection for the car to start.

I didn't feel like dealing with it during winter so I parked the car for a good two months.

Go to fire it up... And battery is weak. I jump to the RDX for a jump (more like a decent charge) and the engine cranks a time or two and the dash lights flicker and click and everything else that comes along with a weak battery. Put battery on charger for a day. Try again, no luck.

I figure it's the cable/battery terminal. I order an oem replacement for forty bucks. Replace that... And replace the battery that wouldn't hold a charge.

Okay, I'm ready to go.

Fresh battery, fresh cable... Car cranks a couple of times and stops. No starting. It's struggling to turn the engine over. Starter pulling a lot of current. Yeah, don't repeat more than a couple of times, or you'll see smoke come from the starter.

Throwing money and parts at it seems like a good option... I buy an aftermarket starter. For some reason: I went to buy a rebuilt denso oem starter last week and added to my cart (acura/honda reputable dealer) ... Didn't pull the trigger. Went to order it yesterday, and NO acura Online store has them as rebuilt. Discontinued. :/ so, just to try, I ended up spending $108 on an aftermarket starter. I wasn't spending $450+ on a new denso...yet.

Aside from dirty hands and a little fluid from a hose I disconnected, it wasn't a bad replacement. 4G is easier because you don't need to remove the battery tray. Maybe I'll write it up someday... Anyway....

Press the start button. Click, thunk. No engine turnover. Nothing. Dash goes dark a second or two after cranking and then resets. Insert radio code again.

I wouldn't think I'm totally seized, but... Something is making turnover a pain to where the starter motor just stalls, pulling a lot of current. A lot!

Any ideas? Should I pour lubricant in the spark plug holes?! I don't want to crank anymore, just to mitigate any more possible damage.

The denso starter is more powerful, but the aftermarket should turn it if all is well.

I need an excuse to buy a newer TL, but... Would like to get SOME money out of this one. 280k miles! Only major replacement was a new crankshaft... :/

Thanks!

Default Why should I get the RLX?

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And what should I be looking out for, problem wise (maintenance/reliability) Iv had an RSX a few years back and I know Acura is an upscaled Honda. I am looking at this: https://www.pomoconissan.com/Vehicle...-VA/3432400573

Would like some input before I pull the trigger, I am in the market for a Luxury sport sedan and I feel like this has all the options I love at a price under 30.

Thank you in advanced!

Check your sunglass holder screws

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Took 20 years before this screw fell out on its own 😱

They’re located on each side on top. Check to see if they’re lose or missing then just get some loctite and tighten them back up.

Heard a weird rattling in my sunglass holder today and when I opened it a little screw literally fell out onto my hand.
This screw must hold the compartment to the frame of the car and it mustve loosened slowly over the last 20 years before it finally fell out lol.
You guys should probably check yours to see if they’re loose before you lose them.

WTB Skunk 2 Shift knob 6 Speed

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Hello,

looking for a skunk 2 shift knob with locking nut six speed that will fit Honda/Acura.

Acura MDX 2015 - "12 Volt Battery Charging System Problem"

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Last week, I got a warning on my Acura MDX - 2015 on the dashboard - "12 Volt Battery Charging System Problem".

I have searched Google and have not come across any conclusive answer regarding this message. I have driven the SUV about 200 miles after the message and there has been no issues so far.

I took it to the dealer and dealer wants to charge $190 for doing the diagnosis and more to fix the problem. I refused and am instead coming here to this forum to get advice.

1. What is the reason for this warning?
2. What is the fix for this? I came across some forum that suggested to replace battery charging module.
3. What is going to happen if I ignore this message? Will it impact alternator or battery in any way?

Thanks.

Can you help me find an OEM part number?

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Hi guys! 2002 Acura TL owner here. Nice to meet everyone. I’m installing a new upper grille molding. The chrome strip that attaches to the hood.
All is good but I’m missing a couple “OEM Acura acorn nuts.”
Can anyone give me the OEM part # for the specific black acorn nut in the pic below. It attaches to the gold piece that in turn hold the trim piece to the hood.
I’m exhausted looking for the nuts. Ugh. Haha.
Thanks for the help! 👍




ILX 2.4 Clutch Bleeding

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Hi all,

I understand that bleeding the clutch is very easy and can be done by gravity but has anyone actually done it? I cant seem to find a good way to get to the bleeder as its in a really tight location. Were you able to access from the engine bay or from below the car? Any tips would help, car is a 2014. This is the last fluid change I need to do on the entire car. Thanks!

Yakima Skybox 21 on an 2019 MDX

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Hello everyone,

I currently have a 2010 MDX Tech and a Yakima system that grips on the factory rails. I attached a few pictures of my current setup to show you where the crossbars are attached to the rail. For me it was the perfect setup because I only use the box once or twice a y
ear and remove the crossbars when I don't need them.







I'm about to buy a 2019 MDX, but I read in a lot of threads that the "new" flush rails are problematic for many. I know now that my gripping mount is not going to work with the flush factory rails :frown2:. If the factory rails are to be used, then I see that the Yakima (PAD 19) or Thule (KIT3132) systems have to be bolted on the side of the rails. It's not possible to adjust the position of the crossbars along the rails.

Has anyone successfully installed a Yakima Skybox 21 on an MDX 2014+?

Here is a PDF from Yakima:
"Cargo Box Fit Information"
http://yakweb-assets.s3.amazonaws.co...hClearance.pdf

The minimum clearance is 57", which is exactly what I measured on my 2010 MDX with the crossbars installed as shown in the pictures. Does anybody know what the clearance is with the factory crossbars on 2019 MDX?

The Yakima site isn't really helping. When I say that I have factory crossbars, it says that the "SkyBox 21 doesn't fit the vehicule" :annoyed:. But when I select their StreamLine Sytem, it says " Fits your 2019 Acura MDX 5dr safely, but be sure to confirm hatch clearance.". How can it fit "more" when the crossbars are bolted on the same location as the factory ones?

I think that, whether I was going for the factory crossbars or the Yakima PAD 19 route, I'd like to remove them when not in use. Is it a simple job of removing a few screws and putting back plastic covers?

The other option would be to have different rails, but I don't see any option on the net. I saw a few posts with awesome custom rail systems, but I won't go that route of DIY. Are there aftermarket rails that I could install to reuse my Yakima clamping system, or at
least be able adjust the crossbars position along the rails?

Carl

Suspension control???

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Hey Guys,
I haven't participated in quite a while because my 2008 TL has really been good to me. Now with 139,000 miles, I replaced a few things: timing belt, disconnected the hands free option, and the front struts. But I need some advice because I don't know what's happening. I noticed when backing out the driveway it feels like the car is unbalanced, like one side (back) drops down and the front end goes up. It's bouncy. I also feel less control and balance in tight curves. I've had it checked out for wheel alignment specifically and just an all over check. The short they can't find anything and I sick of them saying nothing is wrong. Yes, I am a woman; a daughter of a Ford engine mechanic with 40 years of service and I am the original owner and I've been driving...I mean driving 80 mph it. I want to take some long distant trips but my car isn't riding the same so I'm taking it slow these days! HELP!!! Any ideas what this could be?

06 RL Vent Vinegar Smell on Turns, Hills, Fast Brake

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Hi, All! 2006 RL owner. I've read up on all the vent smell fixes, have had the cabin filter changed and, of course, the repair shop's vent treatment for funky smells. I've sprayed Concrobium, Lysol and Oust into the exterior intake while car ran on Vent (did not yet take off the wipers/cover to get to the direct intake as shop treated from the inside). I have, for years, run the AC on vent and not recirculate to avoid moldy evap, etc. Before I took it in for the new cabin filter and vent treatment, it was a very strong vinegar smell at the start of the AC season, worse on the driver's side, even with the residual air coming in through the vents with the fan OFF. I got a sore throat from driving with the odor with the fan off, even with the windows cracked. It was tolerable on recirculate but awful on Vent. Much worse if I made a sharp left or right turn, went up/down hills or did a hard stop. Now, after all the "fixes," it still has a residual smell AND it comes back strong with the turns, hills, and hard stops. Shop said the drain pan is draining properly (I confirmed it is draining) and it can't be nasty water sloshing in the pan.
I did find wet leaves blocking what appears to be the exterior window drain under the hood by the driver's side. I'm expecting this might have forced water into what seems to be the adjacent small air intake vent. I haven't found a good diagram of the vent system (yes, I googled) to know how its duct is configured but I'm suspicious that it might be full of funky water that releases the stench when it sloshes. ?? Any thoughts, ideas or experience with this problem? (Please no snark. I have used "search" for years on this site to fix my car without having to post so if I missed a post on point, you have my sincere apologies.)

Thanks in advance!!

Significant LKAS, CAS, and ACC Problem

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2017 RDX AWD ADV. 33k miles. In service 2/17

Hello All, I have some very unusual malfunctions occurring. Conditions have been anywhere from sunny day mid 70º's to rainy, dreary, mid 50º's. I have not been able to find anything similar to this on lline.

--First occurrence about a month ago, 70MPH on an interstate the LKAS system suddenly starts inputting steering corrections. I was not using the cruise control and the "Main" was not engaged. The system should have been completely off. The LKAS motors continued to fight my inputs as I exited the interstate and turned into a parking lot. I turned the vehicle off to let the system clear. Drove another 20 miles and it re-occurred. LKAS, ACC, and CAS indicators all light up, as well as error messages on the monitor. Drove a few hundred miles on my return trip home the next day with no incident. Had dealer investigate and was told a dirty sensor was the likely culprit.

--Several additional occurences over the next few weeks. The indicators and error messages will light up, then go away, then repeat. All the systems involved with the LKAS are turned off. The LKAS motors will constantly input movements into the steering wheel. The movement are very sudden and very un-nerving. During these times I was able to easily over ride the inputs and steer the vehicle. Scheduled another visit to dealer.

--One day before visit scheduled, after sitting at a red light, proceeded to turn left on green. Had accelerated to around 20-25mph. The LKAS motor suddenly engage wanting to steer the car to the right. This time, the malfunction nearly pulled the steering wheel out of my hands, and I had to use a very strong force to over ride the system. Immediately drove the vehicle to the dealer and informed them it was undrivable and unsafe, and advised they warn the tech before he took the car out and attempted to replicate.

Has anyone seen anything this severe happen with thier LKAS? If so, was it remedied and how so?

Thanks in advance!!

Navigation volume changing on its own (Infotainment Nav & Google Maps)?

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I don't like my music constantly being interrupted by navigation voice notifications (turn right in 500ft, turn right in 400ft, turn right in 300ft.....OK I GET IT), so I turn them off. Google Maps, Apple Maps, Waze, Infotainment Nav. All off.

1-2 times per week since October (minus 4 months while living abroad), I notice my music gets interrupted and discover the navigation has somehow turned itself back on and at the quietest setting. I've noticed this with the Infotainment Nav and Google Maps (over CarPlay) since those are the two I use most frequently. Other system volumes might also be affected but I haven't noticed.

Does anyone else have this issue? Is there any way I could be inadvertently be triggering this?

Side Rant: I updated to the latest firmware a few weeks ago once I returned to the U.S. and the entire infotainment system seems to have slowed down tremendously. It takes forever to boot, switch screens, start nav directions from a home screen shortcut.

Xlr8 street strip

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installed xlr8 street strip with aasco flywheel 5-11-19 just curious about where clutch engagement point should be. Mine seems a little high 1/2 way'ish? Maybe other with same setup can chime in? Have 250miles on it so far and feels good just curious about the grab point?

Anyone rocking the AEM Intake for the 2G V6 RDX?

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Hows it going fellow 2G RDXers out there. My wife and I picked up a 2015 RDX a month or so ago to supplement our 2016 ILX ASpec. And while I've been going down the mod list of potential things to do from wheels and tires to various lighting components, exterior visors, etc... it came to my attention that AEM actually does make an intake for the V6 very much like the TLX and Accord systems. AEM PN: 21-829C

Sure its just a heat shield with a MAF mounting location, but at least it uses the OEM front snorkel to direct some fresh air in. I haven't seen anyone post about it, so I'm wondering if anyone else has one of these. It lists its for the "2017" model, though there is no reason it wouldn't work with any of the 2013-2018 V6 models.

I'd love an extra bit of engine growl as it already sound good, could just use a bit more volume. I'll likely be picking one up for the summer months.

Weird Proximity Issue with Both Fobs

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I have a 2006 RL with two functioning fobs. Both work as intended and all physical buttons work fine.

I am in the process of fixing a broken sensor in the driver side door. The dimple and handle do not work for locking and unlocking. The passenger side works 100%

Here’a where the gremlins start and I am scratching my head. With either fob in hand (nothing else electrical or magnetic in play) if I walk within a close distance to the driver door or passenger door, the car starts beeping and auto-locking/auto-unlocking and gets stuck in this goofy loop until I hit a button on the fob or walk out of range. It happens with both fobs.

I have tried resetting the fobs via the instructions on the back and no luck.

Anyone every heard of this or have any ideas? Very strange activity and I have no idea what it could be. All the doors lock and unlock as they should and actuators work correctly. No other problems.

Locking/Alarm Issue 08 TL

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I’m having an issue I just can’t seem to locate on my 08 TL Type S. About 24 hours ago my alarm randomly decided to go off at 3AM. No one tried to get into the car (condensation all over the car no prints). Disarmed the alarm and relocked the car, car won’t do the beep it normally does after hitting the lock button on the fob twice. Get in the car this morning, start driving, everything normal until about five mins into my drive. I have the doors set to lock after 10mph is reached. Pretty much all morning the doors kept relocking every time I went below 10mph and increased speed again. Then it stopped doing that and the car started beeping again after hitting the lock button twice. All seemed normal. Then this afternoon the locking and no beeping started again. Car runs and drives fine. No warnings in the car. Anyone else have this issue??

Quick question on Alt Tire size for 19in snowtires.

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With stock suspension, what is the largest diameter of wheel that will fit?
Stock 26.7-26.8'' (with 245 50 17, 245 45 18 or 245 40 19) - I know that 255 40 19 fit at 27.1. Looking for alternative snow tire size for a friend with 12 TL SHAWD Adv, he asked about using 235 45 19 which is 27.4. I mean it doesnt look like 3/10th of inch would cause a problem, however I am not sure. So anyone know the absolute size that will fit?
Ya I know weird question. Yes, aware of the speedo error. I also asked tire rack, too. Just in case noone knew the answer here.

CEL code P0420

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I was driving my car a couple of days ago when the Check Engine light started blinking . My car lost power but didn't stalled. I was near my house so I drove for a few miles instead of calling a tow truck . The next Day , I found it it was a misfire on cylinder 2 and needed the ignition coil replace (CODE P0302 ). I got replaced the ignition coil at my local shop and drove to work. Ten Miles Later , The CEL came back on. The car seems to be driving normally . I took it today to Autozone and They Got a new CODe : P0420 : Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold B1. Does this mean I need a new CAT ? or does anyone know any alternative fixes ?

ACC / LKAS / Collision Mitigation Braking constantly flashing & failing

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I've seen similar posts about the three driver assist systems failing, but anyone bump into this issue + the systems constantly restarting every few seconds?



I haven't driven my car in ~15 days after being out of the country, and it was in a covered parking lot during that time. Immediately after start-up, all three systems kept restarting (~2-3 seconds per restart) with the annoying system reset beeps. I tried to turn off the beeping noise during the drive home, but haven't found any solution. Heading to the Acura dealership tomorrow...

TLX 2.4L Tune

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Hey guys,

I’m new to the tuning scene, but I was wondering if it was possible for a 4 cylinder 2015 TLX to get a canned tune. I’m installing a cold air intake into my car and possibly a rv6 downpipe as well.

If anyone knows anything about tuning the 2.4L tlx, please let me know!

Thank you!
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