I brought my RDX to Honda to get the trunk latch fixed, and when I got it back it had a rip in the leather on the middle console. Honda doesn't want to take much responsibility for it and told me they'd order me the part at cost and do the work for free. They called today and told me it'd be $350! I feel like they're trying to rip me off. Has anyone had theirs replaced through a dealer or fixed it themselves? I'm looking at 2007-2009 console lid part from Dorman (924-884). It's not listed as a 2010 but it looks the same. Think it'll work?
Last year, I kept hearing grinding noise behind or under dash. I'm guessing it's the gear to switch or control the heat or A/C from left/right/center. The noise is gone but now heat or A/C only blows out the right side. Airflow is great on Driver's and Passenger side but Driver's side only blows air, no heat or A/C. What could it be and is it a simple fix? Someone told me I'd have to tear the whole dash apart.
Hi all, first time user from Chicago. I have 2010 MDX purchased as a certified pre-owned in 2012.
I lost the #1 FOB over 3 years ago, and have been using the #2 successfully ever since.
I replaced the battery in #2 a couple years ago when the range went down and it worked flawlessly since then.
About 3 months ago, the range in #2 plummeted again (though much more suddenly this time) and I figured it was a battery issue.
I can only stand close to the driver or passenger window and the lock/unlock feature works sporadically - I have to point the FOB at the driver seat (I think the receiver is in the fuse panel in upper left driver leg area). The FOB-under-the-chin method does not noticeably improve the range.
So I replaced the battery (CR1616), and no improvement.
I pulled battery and put a new one in after checking both batteries for voltage, they're both strong (~3.2V). I also verified the contacts in the FOB are strong, in contact, and gunk free.
Still same issue.
I've read that re-programming is a possible solution.
And I've seen that the receiver might replacement, though I don't understand how that make sense, because it DOES work, if just unevenly.
Do FOBs get weaker over time? (besides battery issues)
I finally grew balls and decided that I want to pry open my headlights, clear the orange reflector, and possibly paint and/or install Halos of some sort. I just have a few concerns/questions that I couldn't seem to find when scouring the internet for information:
1. My TL is white, would painting the chrome interior of the headlight black look bad? should I leave it chrome or try a different color? I couldn't find any pics of a white TL with painting done.
2. I understand that I'll probably have to buy Amber turn signal bulbs to keep my vehicle legal... I'm in Pennsylvania, although it's probably the case in most states I would assume. What bulbs should I buy and where can I find them?
3. I'm also considering upgrading my lights to some angel eyes or something, any recommendations for certain brands/types? I'm completely new to the light modification scene.
Rotate Wheels:
Does the TPMS (Sensors in the wheels) need to be "Reset" or put into "Learn" mode after the wheels have been rotated?
If so, How is that done? (I think you just drive the car a little and it will "Learn" the new locations.
Wheels Swap:
What about when swapping to a set of winter wheels with different TMPS in the wheels? (The same stock OEM sensors, just four other in the the winter wheels.)
Will it see the new (Same type but not the original four) sensors after driving around?
I recently installed this intake kit from AF Dynamic. Install was pretty straight forward, instructions were great and fit and finish of everything was pretty good for an intake that is priced less than $150! Overall impressions are very good with it. I went a step further and installed gold and aluminum heat reflective tape on the partition box and on the filter cover. Helps keep those temps down a bit more. Intake produces a nice growl with a quicker response, but it seems some low end torque was lost from my butt dyno.
I have this dangling cable from the underside of my car. I think it is the O2 sensor. I searched it up and I think the part that broke was 36538-RAA-A12. Do I need any other parts aside from this to reattach it back to my car? Do I need 36535-RAA-A02 and 36535-RAA-A11 too?
So I have a 06 TL 3.2 shes got 404k miles no major work done other then timeing belt replaced once. Water pump once. Still runs like the day I got it :) best car ever
New to acurazine, not new to Honda/Acuras. Picked up this 2010 6mt SH-AWD 2 weeks ago from Texas with 35k. I flew out and drove it home to Connecticut. I am happy to report there was no oil consumption on the 1600 mile journey home and it drove very smooth. It is going to replace my 2008 Honda Accord 6-6 coupe.
So I'm wondering if I can save a few bucks by replacing the plastic parts inside my broken side mirror? The glass is fine, so is the housing, even the engine is okay. However the plastic piece with the four little white pieces (and the white pieces) are broken. As well as the front assembly portion of the motor. Basically the three parts in the pictures have broken bits and I'm hoping someone can help me find the parts to buy online and hopefully they're less than the $200 to buy the whole assembly.
So back of mirror with white pieces, and white pieces. Center piece that's glued to back of mirror and goes in the middle. And the front of the motor with the rubber pieces where the white pieces go into. Make sense? Thanks for the help.
Before you all shit on me because of the whole J-series and VQ rivalry, I decided to run my best friend's '08 G37S Coupe 6MT. Yes we did some pulls in 2nd gear at 40 km/h (20 mph for the U.S folks as I live in Vancouver, don't ask why I chose 20 roll, I do not know why) to the end of 3rd gear on this slightly sketchy road. First 2 (I am doubting my 2nd run now) I got the lead. 3rd run, he beat me fairly.
Here are my assessments on why I think I "won" the first 2:
- It was pretty cold that night and his tires were almost on the bald-side and he was spinning
- I probably shift faster than him
- I think he miss-shifted in the 2nd pull.
Not trying to start anything here; I was reading the thread where a 6MT owner smoked a G and Z from a dig and I saw the shit-show unfold in there, so I am just respectfully providing my input as to why the "results" were the way they were. I am going to run him again sometime in the future now that he has a magnaflow catback and some exhaust mods (I forgot what exhaust mods he has now tbh). Unfortunately the '05 TL got wrote off a month later after that race, but I am happily back in an '04 6MT with my intake and catback again (I am probably about to get smoked LOL, but my Si friend who doesn't like VQs very much is very convinced that VQs are nothing impressive; I silently disagree with him because I think he is just heavily biased against the VQ platform as a whole... I dig the G37 sedan) :canada:
Feel free to provide your own comments and/or whatever lol. I am still practicing on doing launches because I don't want to embarrass myself too much when I eventually do give the 1/4 mile a try :pofl:
My mods on the '05:
- K&N CAI
- EndlessRPM catback
I have a 01 acura cl premium 3.2l v6 with 3.5 intake bottom to top and type s throttle body. All new sensors exhaust, cold air , ran great. Now it spits sputters, getting map high volt cel , iac valve cel , runs like $hit. Has the computer quit on me anyone have any thoughts
So we just bought a 19 TLX A Spec and upon pulling into the driveway we heard a rear suspension noise that sounds almost like a spring sound. We took it back to the dealer today and they said they knew exactly what it was because another 19 TLX A Spec had the exact same noise. They ordered some parts and replaced various small parts around the top of the spring perch and also grinded down an overly large spot weld that was hitting somewhere in the general area. So fast forward. Upon driving home, a large majority of the noise is gone, however it does still make a banging springy noise when hitting a larger bump, speed bump, or entering a driveway. I am set to go back to the dealer again next week for them to look at it. Not a great first Acura experience with only 700 miles on it. Any ideas?
I love the Aasco flywheel which was a $h!t ton lighter than OEM and the car runs beautifully. Exedy clutch feels OEM though the pedal is softer than I like but all in all a great replacement.
One problem however, in reverse gear lights wont come on, mirror will not tilt and reverse camera will not turn on.
The installation was performed by a certified (NON ACURA) auto mechanic and I plan to have him take a look but if you guys could present ideas for a quick fix I could do myself.........
I would assume its a unconnected electrical harness or sensor or something but cant find any idea where to look on line.
So i recently did a pretty clean install for a tablet in my RDX. Ive seen a lot of people install aftermarket gauges and pods and such but for this platform there is a much easier and better solution to be had imo for those that want to keep it clean or avoid baiting theft (if you remove it daily). I removed my pod i was using previously and simply installed my kindle fire hdx7 7" tablet with a CD player mount and for me it works perfectly for location and viability. You can use this with a bluetooth adapter and torque pro or with the hondata mobile app and flashpro either will render the same result. You can now monitor everything the canbus system has to offer like boost, AFR, knock, coolant temp, ignition advance etc etc anything you would need or want to know. You can also setup visual and audio warnings if a value goes too high or low a great example being knock count or knock retard if you set the values appropriately you have a really good pop up and alarm sound when your heavy into detonation and know to let off the throttle immediately or if you got a bad batch of gas and need to drive like a granny until next fill up lol. Just a great clean solution i wanted to share.
I have been asked about this process at least half a dozen times, and although I do not have this car any longer I still want to help out my ex-Acura brethren!
Warning .!!! This will take a couple hours of work, so set some time aside. I did this entirely by myself and can be done with one person, but the more the merrier and should be quicker with more hands helping out.
Ok, I will firstly apologize if I forget something as I did this a couple years ago and like my rear taillight conversion I did not take many pictures, hence this will not be a step by step walkthrough and will hopefully just help guide you through it.
COSTS = Very low but you should consider the following:
- Clip puller/removal tool ($10 or less from an automotive store), looks like a flat 2 prong fork. This will help you not destroy your stock clips that can be expensive to replace and there are a lot of them.
- Epoxy (if you want to be compliant and keep the front inner orange reflector (in Canada and the USA you need this in the front of your vehicle)
- Headlight Resealing Butyl (I purchased some afterwards thinking I may need to redo it but actually did not need it) it is a good idea to have some as there is some work to remove the bumper and you will not want to have to redo it if you have some moisture in your headlight assembly.
TOOLS: Small flat head screw driver or preferably a Clip puller; 10mm socket set; long extension for your socket set; Philips screwdriver small and regular; knife or prying tool.
HOW TO GET FROM THIS:
TO THIS:
Here goes nuthn
Pop open your hood and remove the black plastic cover along the front of the vehicle. To do this you need to remove the clips and there are 2 different types of clips. There is ones that you push in the middle/centre which pop in and then you pull the clip out, and there are the ones that you use either a flat head screw driver and very carefully lift from the inner lip to pull the inner clip up and then use the clip removal tool to pull the clip out by sliding the tool straight in and lift out once you have pulled the clip out to make room for the tool. Remember these are plastic clips with some metal components that are older and can be brittle So please be careful or you will break them!
Remove the 10mm bolts
Next (or first step either can be interchangeable) Remove the multiple clips underneath the vehicle holding the bumper in place (sorry I do not recall how many clips, and I do not have a picture But there are approximately 10 or so), there are only really one style of clips here which are the ones you need to pull up and use the clip removal tool. I believe there are also 2, 10mm bolts that need to be removed, one on each side.
Next remove the clips (2 or 3) that are located in each wheel well, there is also a single Philips screw located as indicated below. Its tight because I lowered the car just over an inch, try turning that wheel, ahh there is space to work!
At this point the bumper should be ready to be removed, unless you have fog lights Then as you carefully remove the bumper by carefully pulling straight out and away from the front of the vehicle, be sure to unclip the fog lights. Place the bumper aside along with the black Styrofoam.
Removal of the Headlights:
Unclip all of the harnesses from the vehicle
Remove the 10mm bolts (I believe there are 3), one on the side, top, and one is located in the front and below a bracket. This last one is the one you probably need a long extension to reach.
Pull the headlight assembly out.
Remove the metal bracket. There are a couple bolts that hold this in place.
After admiring your headlight assembly . Remove as much of the metal and plastic pieces (inclusive of the HID ballast, all bulbs, and screws) as possible.
Red are the screws
Blue are the bulbs and HID ballast (the light grey circular can be unscrewed to be removed)
Orange are the mounting bracket.
Do you like baking goodies, because next you need to put the headlight assembly in the oven. Now I am NOT going to tell you how to do this part as there are many videos online (Youtube) with different opinions on how long and at what temperature to use, however I would recommend that you try lower temperatures first and do not be surprised that you may only get part of the removal done as the butyl is cooling so you have to put it back into the oven for a couple more minutes.
I would recommend you use a towel or something to place the headlight assembly on the floor or work area so that you do not scratch the headlight assembly plastic lens
There are multiple plastic tabs that should be moved back before pulling the headlight assembly apart
This part is very sticky (use gloves) and you may want to use a butter knife or similar tool to help cut away at some of the butyl as you pull it apart. Be careful that you do not get the sticky butyl in the inside of the lens/headlight assembly.
Once it is apart and cooled you may remove the inner metallic silver/grey plastic portion, I believe there are 3 more small Philips screws needed to be removed. Once this portion has been removed you may pull out the ugly orange plastic.
*** There is an angled rectangular reflective piece that comes out and can be used to be attached inside the headlight assembly Do not use double sided tape. I initially used some really strong tape and it still came out/slid Use epoxy and it will hold.
Now you have an opportunity for a little more customization here.
Some people like to paint the inner cut shield wall bright red (use a paint that is a somewhat heat resistant) to give the so called Demon Eye look. If done correctly when the headlights are off you can see a red projector lens when looking straight onto your headlights, however when the HID lights are on this should not be visible. I did not do this, but hey fill your boots as this is your opportunity.
Some people prefer more of a black headlight assembly look, and may paint the inner silver/grey metallic plastic black. Again heres your opportunity (you wont need heat resistant paint for this part tho).
This one I did do: There is a metal extended blocking shield that actually blocks out some of the forward projected light. I can not seem to think of a logical reason to keep this here and firmly believe that this metal extension is just to help eliminate HID spill onto the ground and into the fog light beam pattern. As the fog light incandescent bulbs are pretty weak. However your HIDs are much brighter and (IMO) should be used, so I snipped this off.
Your projector headlight lens works like your eyes, and reverses the image upside down. The lower line (metal wall) that zigs in a bend upward is your cut shield and this blocks light so that your HID beam does not blind on coming traffic at night. Paint the other side of this wall if you want those demon eyes. Now the upper metal bracket is what I removed as this is blocking light emitting downward (red circled area).
Maybe I am an idiot but, this sure looks like much more light will go through and should be a better spill pattern. Without a doubt I did notice a difference and I even converted my fog lights to amber HIDs. Still there was a marked increase in forward light output. But hey, who am I to argue with Acura/Honda engineers?
Once that is all taken care of and you have opted to modify your headlights however you decided. Reinstall the plastic metallic silver piece (or newly painted black) and the 3 screws. Now you can either try to sandwich the assembly back together as best as you can and then place it in the oven to reheat up the butyl, or remove most of the original butyl (as much as you can) and replace it with new butyl before placing it back in the oven. For me this process took 2 turns in the oven, I needed to heat up the butyl squish it back in place as best as I could until it cooled a little, then back into the oven again and out to seal it all up.
Once it is nicely sealed (again ensure you did not get any of that sticky butyl inside the headlight assembly or on the front lens) then reaffix all of the tabs, hardware, bulbs, ballasts, screws, etc.
*** Again another opportunity to modify the look of your vehicle here by replacing bulbs with LED lights, you will have to (or at least should to remain compliant) replace the corner marker bulbs with incandescent or LED amber bulbs.
Now follow the process from the beginning of this post to reinstall the metal brackets, headlight assembly, bumper, and engine bay black plastic cover There is no rocket science just reverse the process.
And that is about it .
As always enjoy I hope it works out for you, and I am sorry if I missed something (again I did this quite a while ago, this is entirely from memory).
Late last year, I purchased a 2016 CPO Base RDX. The In-Service Date is 6-16-2015. The manufacturer's basic warranty is up 6-16-19 (4 years/ 50,000 miles basic, 6 years 70,000-mile powertrain), but since the CPO adds 1 year or 12,000 miles to the basic manufacturer's warranty, the RDX is under warranty until 6-16-20 or 62,000 miles. Because it is a CPO, the warranty on the powertrain is good through 6-16-22 or 100,000 miles. Currently, I have 41,500 miles on the vehicle and being I put on approximately 8,000 miles per year, the basic warranty will run out with time (6-16-20) instead of miles (62,000) and the powertrain 6-16-22, instead of 100,000 miles.
In the past few days, I have called a few Acura dealerships to discuss an extended warranty. One dealership offered an extended warranty from Zurich Insurance. The other from JM&A Group. Neither one offered an Acura Care Service Contract (I have no idea why other than the dealerships probably make less profit). Since both extended warranties were similar, I will address only one, from Zurich Insurance.
The assumption is the purchase of the warranty in June 2020. It is a 6-year or 100,000-mile warranty; from 6-16-2020 to 6-16-2026. While I have not read all the details, the warranty seems to cover the same things as the Acura new car warranty (I'm sure in the fine print it excludes things!). There are no deductibles. The cost for the 100,000-mile warranty is $3,233. BUT, let's say I have 50,000 miles on my RDX come June 2020 when theoretically I would purchase the extended warranty. It is really a 50,000-mile warranty because the coverage is up to 100,000 miles in total. Since I put on only about 8,000 miles per year, 2026 most likely would come first.
This is my thinking. My main concern is the cost of repairs for the powertrain. With my CPO, I have a basic warranty through 6-16-20 (or 62,000 miles) and a powertrain warranty through 6-16-22 (or 100,000 miles). If I purchase the Zurich warranty, I get 6 years of time (or 100,000 miles) at a cost of $3,233. However, I am only getting 4 years on the powertrain, my main concern, because my CPO covers the powertrain up to 6-16-22 (or 100,000 miles). Even if the Zurich extended warranty mirrors Acura's manufacturer's warranty, and I doubt it does, $3,233 seems like a lot of money for what amounts to a 6-year basic warranty and a 4-year powertrain warranty.
Interestingly, the cost for this warranty is $3,233 regardless if the RDX is a Base, has the Technology Package or the Advance Package, even though the cost of repairs on the electronics is more on the latter two. I gather if Zurich Insurance can get Base RDX owners to subsidize the cost of warranty repairs for Advance RDX owners, why not. More the reason it seems this warranty is not a value. I have a year to make a decision and the dealer does not expect much of a price change.
I would appreciate your thoughts on extended warranties in general and this one specifically.
I am planning on clearing/painting my 2006 TL's headlights but I am going to buy a set of Oem headlights and use my current ones as backups, as they are not in the best condition. I found good deals on eBay for headlight assemblies with ballasts included, but one is from a 2005 TL and the other is from an 06. I understand the ballast mountings are different, but since these headlights both come with working ballasts, can I run one 05 headlight and one 06? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol
Hi everyone! I have a 2019 TLX aspec and I was wondering if the drivers side carpet looks normal. Ive never noticed the carpet doesnt go all the way up and the fuse box doesnt have a box around it.
This is my first post...and I wanted to share an issue that I was having with my RDX. My wipers started acting crazy, the wiper switch was not doing the selected wipe desired. I would select the delay, sometimes it would wipe twice and stop, sometimes it would just keep going as if slow speed was selected. I would turn the wipers off, they would keep going. After a while they would stop, sometimes in the middle of the windshield. Or a few inches higher than normal parking. This fix only applies to the wipers working, not stopping, and not responding to what you select on the switch. If your wipers are totally dead, and not working, it could be a bad motor. Or a relay.
2007 RDX, has the wiper relay integrated into the MICU. The MICU, is the entire fuse box located by the hood latch. This unit rarely goes bad. If your wipers are doing exactly what my car was doing...follow everything I did. I purchased a new wiper switch from a local Acura dealer. For those of you that think you can save some money by going on ebay to look for it...are wasting your time. This part retails for $31-35 brand new from the dealer. On ebay they are selling them used for $ 20-25. Its not worth it... I will tell you why. First off, the switch on these cars are only good on a 2007-2008. If you buy a switch on ebay, they might say fits 2007-2012. They are right, it does fit. However does not work. As 2009-2012 has a rain sensor for that year. And the switch is programmed for that. It will look identical to the 2007-2008 switch. The functions are different. The funny part is all the switches from 2007-2012 fit exact. Yet do not perform the same. If you have a 2007-2008, make sure you buy the switch from the dealer. If you decide to buy one used from ebay, how do you know it works? Or how long it will last. Trust me, buy one from the dealer.
There are 3 screws under the steering column, that need to be removed. Then turn the car on...and turn the steering wheel to the side, you will see a screw, then turn it the other way and you will see another screw. Then pry up the two sides of plastic covers. That will expose the switch. Remove the plug from the back of the switch, and move the loom of wire out from the hook. There are two small phillips head screws on it, remove them. And use a small flat head screwdriver, and pull it out. Put the new switch in till it clicks. And repeat the steps till its back together.
This is the best tip I can give you...not even the dealer knows this. I dont know how many times people bring their cars in. And they will tell you, the motor and switch is bad. First off, two things rarely ever go bad at the same time. But they will make it sound good, such as the switch shorted out and burned the motor That is a bunch of horse poop. The dealer wants to make money. They are not in the business of replacing a
$ 30 part. And charging you an hour labor. They rather charge you for a switch, motor and 2-3 hours worth of labor. And lets not forget the diagnostic charge. This could be somewhere in the $ 350-450 range. When all you needed was the switch...
I promised you a tip...here it is. Not a single thread online talks about what Im about to. After this repair...your car will still act exactly the same way it did before you replaced the switch. And you will say darn, it must not have been the switch Possibly you giving up and taking the car to the mechanic or dealer. Or buying a motor and replacing it. Thinking it must be the motor. The tip is...disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, and remove the 30amp fuse from the MICU which is the fuse box on the left side of the drivers side. You will see this fuse is a big pink-purple fuse. It will be a little hard to pull out. Use a small flat head screwdriver and pry and wiggle till its out. Slow...do not break it. The reason why you should not disconnect the battery prior to the repair is, you need to start the car in order to turn the steering wheel to the left and right, to be able to expose and remove the front screws. If you have the battery disconnected, you would be able to do that. The MICU stores a memory of the crazy actions of the wipers, by disconnecting the battery terminal and removing the fuse, the main CPU resets. After 5 minutes, connect the negative battery terminal and put the fuse back in its place. Then put the key in, turn it to the second mode and try the wipers. They should work 100%. Toggle up every selection on the switch. It should do exactly what you selected. And you just saved $400
I hope everyone enjoys my wiper fix, and remember. Of your wipers are not working at all. Usually it is either power not going to the motor, the motor is burned out the 30 amp wiper fuse is blown out from the MICU. It is not the switch...the switch will only acts crazy as described in this fix. It does not just die completely. As there are 4 selections on the switch. And if one selection stops working. The other 3 will work.
