Most of the younger people on AZ will be like "who?" but growing up our family watched alot of Marlin Perkins and Jim Fowler exploring and showing the natural habitat of all kinds of animals in the wild.
Great show, educated and entertained. RIP Jim and Marvin :rip:
After using the info system for 3 weeks, I have 3 questions:
When I start the car, the two screens default to the apps (main) and music (small). Is there a way to have these default to Nav (main) and Clock (small)? I would prefer these screens be the default view.
At the top of the small screen, I sometimes get a +1 or +2 displayed. I have no idea what these numbers are telling me and hoping someone can enlighten me.
Finally. Wife and I both have iPhones. Her phone is currently paired to the RDX. Can I also pair my phone? And if so, what happens if both are in the car and both receive a call?
Check engine light is on .Couple codes co2 code transmission code and heat code.What should I doMy mechanic suggest to change whole turbo ,I need second opinion
Hey ive had a problem with my acura rl 2007 nd i cant seem to find this problem anywhere so here i am lol. Everytime i put my hand on the handle my key fob lights up but my doors wont unlock. I tried passenger side and nothing, i tried trunk and still nothing. Please help!!!!
Im a member of the 3rdgen tl forum and i have come to respect the knowledge found here. Im looking at a 2009 rdx turbo with 100k miles in silver. What would be some things to look at and ask about. Its a turbo too, any guidance would be awesome.
I strongly suggest that every person on this forum participate in the suit. It costs ZERO and there is no reason not to submit your information. After submitting my details, I received this e-mail and a call from both a paralegal and the attorney himself to discuss and explain next steps. Please do not delay.
Putting an aftermarket stereo into my 08 TL Type S trying to use the Axxess ASWC adapter to keep my steering wheel controls. I installed it and it doesn't seem to be detecting the steering wheel control wire. I've followed the instructions in that I've connected the following:
* Black of ASWC-1 to ground(Pin 11) of the radio harness
* Red of ASWC-1 to 12V ignition(Pin 2)
* Gray/Red of ASWC-1 to Pin 3(Pink wire)
When I turn the ignition, it goes into it's auto-detect mode and when it finishes, it goes into a slow green/red flash, indicating it didn't detect the vehicle. All the green flashes are short flashes, which indicates it isn't detecting the steering wheel wire. The 4th flash should be a long flash indicating the gray/red wire is connected. I'm pretty sure I have the right wires, since the adapter does turn on and to into programming mode, and I found another document somewhere(can't find it now) that confirms it should be the pink wire that gets tapped into.
I initially crimped it with a butt splice crimp, then I tried a wire cap, and multiple times with just the wires twisted together to make sure that it wasn't the connection that was causing the issue. Now I'm wondering if I maybe yanked on the wire too hard when I first installed the thing and pulled it out somewhere upstream.
Is there a way I could test that the pink wire is actually connected? I have a voltmeter I can use.
Hi so Im new here and this probably has been discussed but couldnt find info. I am switching out the OEM
filter with just a K&N drop in. Is there a
noticeable difference in sound and performance?
Thanks in advance
It seem like a Type-S is a foregone conclusion as the front subframe is built for a V6 and Acura says they're going all-in on the Type-S branding but are there any rumours about a hybrid RDX? If so, any guesses as to what powertrain it'll use? Off the shelf there's the Accord's hybrid drivetrain with 221hp and then there's the MDX's eSH-AWD one. The former is probably a bit weak for a RDX and I doubt it aligns with the brand image they're chasing so I'd guess that the MDX's system would be a better fit.
I'm fairly interested in a hybrid as most of my driving is city driving and as I'm likely to keep this car for a long time I'm mindful of gas prices continuing to climb pretty relentlessly.
In the summer of 2018, I started having a problem with my Acura dying or stalling out when I was driving. Sometimes I could restart the car immediately, sometimes it took a while to restart. I ended up finding out that the problem was likely the fuel pump relay, so I went to AutoZone (I believe) and got a new fuel pump relay.
My stock relay was a Denso 156700 2680 fuel pump relay.
The one that I bought from AutoZone that summer had this written on the relay itself "Mitsuba 7003 52 6114" while the box it was in said "Duralast 20315."
I thought replacing the stock fuel pump relay fixed the problem because the car didn't stall out or quit on me for the rest of the year.
As soon as it got warm this year though, my Acura died while I was on the interstate, and I had to get it towed because it would not start up again. I know that there are sometimes problems with Acura relays in heat or high elevation, but I live at less than 500 ft above sea level. This has only happened in the summer so far.
As for what happens when the car dies: The power steering goes out, 5 or so codes flash on the dash, and the battery is said to be dead however AC, radio, and power windows work. The battery is only a few months old and the connections are clean and making contact with the battery. The car was towed to a shop that specialized in electric issues in cars, and they could not figure out what was wrong with it. They drove it and had no problems. So, I took the car home and haven't had any more problems with it. I'm so concerned now because I am going to be traveling all over the state in the next week and need my car to be absolutely reliable.
I'm wondering if the likely problem is just another faulty fuel pump relay, or if the issue goes deeper. If you recommend buying another fuel pump, which brand and model do you suggest?
My wife's 2005 TL has been having intermittent issues with both low beams not working for a few months. They either both work or both don't work. High beams and running lights always work.
Did a bunch of googling, stumbled across threads suggesting the headlight lowbeam relay may be failing. This diagram seems to support this as a possible culprit:
I opened up the exterior fuse box and saw the fuses mentioned in this diagram and some relays, but not the headlight relays. Where are they? One thing I read said they're not serviceable which sounds odd. Is this true?
Can't get this to fail when I want it to so can't off more info. It's working fine right now.
Hi all, hoping someone could help or if not this can help others while I figure this out.
I have a 2010 TSX with about 110,000 miles.
While driving, lately every time the VSA /ABS light comes on randomly sometimes right away and stays on. Could be 10 minutes later or 20 min later or right away.
I did the jumper test to grab codes from my dash and ended up giving too much codes so I got the code scanner.
Codes are
12,13,14,16,18,61
12-01 Lateral Acceleration Sensor Malfunction
13-01 LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OPEN CIRCUIT
14-01 Lateral Acceleration Sensor Neutral Position
16-01 RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FAILURE
18-01 LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FAILURE
61-01 Low Battery Voltage
It's a little weird to me that all of these codes appear at once. I'm guessing one thing is throwing this off.
I find it hard to believe 3 of my wheel sensors went out at the same time.
Have anyone else experienced this issue? Or have any suggestions?
I purchased an 07 Acura TL as a small project for a small sum of money a few months ago and I have been slowly doing work on the car. Replaced ECU and some other things. Its pretty much low risk and im enjoying learning about the car.
Now before you guys ask, I have the clean/clear title to the car and I am not removing a tracker because I didn't make payments on the car. Its actually the opposite.
After flashing a new ecu and keys over, im realized (after testing) that all the main components of the car seems to work, but I was not getting any signal from the ignition to the starter. I look under the steering wheel while checking some fuses and see a really poorly installed (the thing was dangling with black duct tape) tracker on the car.
The thing also had wheel locks, so Im assuming the previous owner just lived in an area where he just tried to keep people from stealing his vehicle, but this leads me to believe that maybe the wires to the starter aren't connected properly.
I'm going to go down there and look today and try to fix this myself. I've soldered wires and cables before and have installed radios so i have some leftover tools and materials.
Any advice or insight on these wires under the wheel of a 3rd gen TL would be much appreciated before I go mess something up.
Thanks in advance. Love the forum - this is my first post.
When I am driving sometimes it feels like it may shift gears or jump a little. I am wondering if anyone else has had this happen and could it be just the gears shifting. ? Also how will you know its time to change the timing belt if you do t know the history of the car before 165,000. I cant afford just to pay a thousand to have the engine taken apart. Thanks.
Whats going on acurazine, I previously owned a black Type-S TL but it was stolen a couple months back and totaled by the time it was found. I was out the game for awhile but now I'm back with a white a-spec, I just wanted to share a picture and warn all other Type-S owners to stay safe and keep these gems protected.
Has anyone modified a 2014 RDX Base model Cargo Cover to fit the Technology Package model? If seems as if the stick (which comes with Base model cargo cover) and holds the cover open is approx 4 inches too long to fit the Tech Package model.
Had my windshield replaced and ever since the LKAS has not functioned correctly. It is in the shop for the fourth time and I'm reaching out to see if anyone else has had issues and what the fix was. The system has been recalibrated twice now. The LKAS works as long as the road is straight but at the first curve it disengages and then doesn't reengage until I'm out of the curve. I know from driving the loaner vehicles with LKAS over the same routes that the system stays engaged throughout the entire curve. I've also noticed in the loaners that the LKAS system is "aggressive" in steering though the turn and my 2017 RLX is not nearly as aggressive when it did work.
