Had Infiniti 97 and all lines was PVF coated. Those are black in color. No one problem with any line ever, not a drop of rust ever. Checked today at Evap canister (rear of car) and all lines in its vicinity including brake lines are badly rusted. I guess fuel lines go buy right wheel. I can not fix something till stop working but it is only question of time when some line will rust through. As I understand ours lines are stainless steel. How much I dig there is problem connect stainless steel and PVF lines because of different flare angle at end. Did anyone replaced brake or fuel line and what he used? How much I'm informed PVF lines are standard for all cars. How is possible acura do not have that lines?
2 years ago my 2011 TSX A/C started blowing warm air from the driver vents compared to passenger vents. Took it to Honda and they added a dye and recharged it because they couldn't find any apparent leak.
Well 2 months ago I started to notice A/C performance started to get similar to how it was before the recharge. Basically was told the A/C compressor was leaking and needed to be replaced. Was quoted 1.9K for OEM Acura compressor or $710 for 3rd party compressor and $189 recharge. I tired to have Acura quote me a compressor just to compare, but was basically told they want $85 to diagnose it themselves and they couldn't quote me over the phone...
I guess what I'm wondering is, should I just go ahead and bite the bullet and have the compressor replaced or since my last charge lasted 2 years, could I possibly just pay for a recharge in the meantime and hope it lasts that long again. I was told the leak was "noticeable", compared to 2 years ago, supposedly the mechanic couldn't find it, so it may have gotten worse, I'm unsure. I just don't want to do more damage by not replacing it (if that's possible).
So today I finally got my double din radio in and was excited to install it. Well after a few hours of figuring out how to hook up the krank it up harness I decided to just bypass the stock amp and go from headunit to speakers.
Well now I'm stuck my small light fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why I've unplugged the headunit and Navi along with the Navi retention wire to see if that was the problem I also took out the fuse on the big red wire that goes to the amp and all my LED lights I've installed and still the fuse continues to blow can anyone help me out with this?
Hey All,
Have a 96 RL that I did some engine work to. Re-installed the engine harness and hooked it up incorrectly. Let the smoke out of the ECM and corrected the connections. received a used ECM and now have a crank no start issue. There is fuel and compresion but no spark. The immobilizer light does not come on when cranking but only after key is off. It flashes 5 times then goes out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hello, Im new to the community here. I was wondering if I could possibly get some help.
my dash lights stoped working one day the speedometer lights work just not the ac buttons and radio or any other buttons that used to be lit up. The car I have is a 2005 tl it used to have a remote car starter that I removed also I put in a aftermarket radio and removed the factory amp. Is there any chance that some of the changes I made could of messed with the dash lights and how could I fix it ? I appreciate any feed back, thank you
So, my 07 rdx belt shredded and managed to damage the crankcase seal , my guess is cord from the belt got pulled in behind the pulley. How difficult is that to replaced , do I need and special tools . Thanks , Dave
Hello I was wondering what types of brakes people are running? I am looking to upgrade so any and all info would be great. Also where you got them from? Thank you.
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Just picked up my 2018 TLX A Spec yesterday and still figuring things out with this car. Coming from an 05 TSX, I was hoping there would be a few anchor points in the trunk where I could attach something like bungee cords to to secure things from rolling around in the trunk. Does anyone happen to know if there are any in the TLX - or ones that I can add? (I use it to hold down a tote box of random stuff from rolling around the trunk)
Hi all, new guy around here. Long story short, I've had my 3rd gen for just about a year now. I bought the car with ~127,000 miles on it and since owning it I've had an engine vibration issue that's been driving me mad. From idle to around 1500 RPM the car shakes pretty noticeably. It is especially bad when slipping the clutch during engagement in 1st gear. The vibration itself cannot be felt in the clutch pedal, just throughout the car.
I've replaced engine mounts during my ownership and that did not seem to help much. The car definitely needed new mounts, however. To my knowledge the car hasn't had a clutch replacement yet, so I was wondering if something wacky could be going on with the dual-mass flywheel, unsprung self adjusting clutch madness after ~133,000 miles. I've searched around and struggled to find anyone with similar problems. If you all have any insight it would be greatly appreciated!
My 2005 RL lately when I place the car in park. After a few minutes, the locks go crazy. Locks, unlocks, locks, unlocks. Over and over again. How do I fix this?
A couple of weeks back, some lady bumped into my car, causing the alarm to go off. Next day, the battery was completely dead, it was a one month old battery. I have been trying to figure out what is killing my battery, but still no luck. Did some tests with a multimeter and something is drawing 1amp power when the car is off. I do have a VIPER two way remote start/alarm system installed, but it is fully functional even after pulling the fuse. I even disconnected the brain of the VIPER system, but the draw is still there. I also disconnected the HFL, not that it ever worked ever since I purchased the car used 5 years ago.
After pulling some fuses, found out that fuse #20 is the culprit, the draw dropped to 4 milliamp right after I pull it. The fuse box indicates that it is for Option, which doesn't really tell me much. I know that it has controls the power seats and TPMS, as those don't work after I pull the fuse. Not sure what to do at this point, anyone knows what other things are connected to fuse #20?
I just bought a beautiful TL woohoo and im in love. I am wondering if i can swap the current 2006 radio with the 2007 radio so I can get mp3 functionality and the aux in. Anyone here ever done that?
Does anyone know if the u joints the propeller shaft can be press or is it one of those stamped one where you cant change? been feeling some shudder in the chassis and vibration under the seat so I'm suspecting the u joint to be bad. Think about doing an overhaul of the suspension and steering. So far I've changed the front struts, lower control arm and sway bars end links but he shudder is still there. Cv joints look good with a little play from the inner and tie robs also look good. The rack and pinion are bad though, I can hear the clunks coming up on the steering column when turning. If anyone has any experience with this or if the rack could be rebuilt please lemme know
I have Acura RL 2007. I can see strange behavior. When temperature outside is quite low all works properly, When is hot outside and especially after long waiting for green light acceleration is more than poor. I am able to accelerate very slowly even pushing acceleration pedal fully.
If I keep acceleration pedal pressed in 20-30% after some hundred of meters car again starts to accelerate as usual.
I have clean air filter, properly serviced engine oil, AWD and transmission. I have new spark plugs either coils. Also incoming air temperature sensor has been replaced. Engine temperature is all the time normal - not too hot.
