I read the entire misfire thread but I didn't see that that particular problem was ever resolved.
This is the low speed lag/drop-off and then slight hesitation at 2500 rpm at speed thing.
I have heard this is common but I'm not finding a solution. Mechanic couldn't replicate it of course.
It's more common soon after a start and uphill.
I cannot make it throw a code for the life of me.
I mentioned this in a past thread before but never got any response as to what could be the cause of this..
My driver side window goes up and down on its own when it's above 70 degrees outside. Sometimes it will go right down and stay there until the day cools and it goes up back half way. The switch doesn't respond when press down or lifted and you can hear a fast ticking/clicking inside the door. Also just recently my front passenger door makes a high frequency sound whether i use the driver master switch or it's own switch.. The high pitch sound goes away after 5 seconds or so.
Hey Folks- saw a Yellow Sticker under the hood stating this vehicle has REMOTE START. What exactly or how do I remote start? What do I need to buy, how can I confirm? thank you
Has anyone else experienced this? My RDX is a 2016. Dealer says it seems like its working normal. SA even brought another 2G RDX our that they had on the lot and said he couldnt tell the difference. I can reproduce with the engine on or off and it only occurs in the last 1/4 of pedal travel. Fairly annoying in stop and go driving. Thanks.
I usually plug my phone in to use Apple Car Play, but when I am running a bunch of errands, I prefer using a thumb drive with a ton of my music stored on it. It usually works just fine, but lately I am getting an intermittent USB Error, or No media on device. When that happens, I go to my Sirius XM or just go back to my Apple Cr Play. I stopped at the dealer and the service writer told me that there is a big system update coming from Acura that will fix the USB issues.
I'm looking to buy a 6MT TL as my next car this weekend and have a few options I'm considering.
1. 2007 NBP TL-S w/ 77k mi. Being sold from an "auto club" that takes trade ins and fixes up tuner cars to sell them. Went to see this one earlier this week and saw it in it's original condition before it got fixed up. It's stock and has some dings, dents and scratches but nothing too major and most of that will be fixed up when I purchase. Interior is solid and no cracked dash. Asking price is $15,955 negotiable.
PICS: https://photos.app.goo.gl/U9AbjAj2iuH63y397
2. 2007 Silver TL-S w/ 121k mi. Being sold from the 2nd owner privately. Car is stock, in pretty good condition and the current owner is selling because he has 5 cars and decided to get rid of the TL-S. He said the head gasket gave out in October and decided to fix up a bunch of stuff since he was planning on keeping it. Heads were resurfaced, new valve train, gaskets, OEM timing belt, OEM water pump, thermostat, knock sensors and connectors, water temp sensor, OEM clutch kit, OEM pressure plate, OEM rear hydraulic motor mount, OEM right upper mount, radiator and hoses, and new valve cover gasket costing him $4,300. All with a 24k/24 month warranty. Cosmetically it's okay, a few dents and the dash is cracked. Asking $11,800 OBO.
PICS: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sEmBcCWmEbA9HKzS8
3. 2005 TL Base w/ 120k mi. 1 owner and he took pretty good care of it. Went to look at this one already and we agreed on $6k if I decide to buy it. I'm tempted to get this one because it would save me some money for touch ups, maintenance and possibly mods if I choose to go that route but I would prefer to have a bone stock TL-S. No photos of this one..
As far as the first two go, what would be a good price to consider buying these at? I feel they're slightly overpriced but I know the 6MT tend to go for more on average. Also, should I be worried about all the repairs and maintenance done on #2, or should I look as that as a good thing because it's saving me future maintenance costs? And if I decide to go with the base TL is it worth fixing up/modding? Don't currently have any experience in mods but would be willing to learn and have friends that could help and have the tools I would need.
Good evening. I hope everyone is having a good night. I wanted to post this thread in regards to the dreaded "Tighten Fuel Cap" error 07-08 TL-S's receive. I believe this affects the base models too, but since I drive a TL-S, it seems to apply to those years. After vigorously looking through the forums to fix the error, I ran across three threads that fixes this issue. This regards replacing the EVAP solenoid, and replacing the fuel filler pipe. However upon completion and test driving my vehicle for about 50 miles, the problem still persisted. After once again looking through the forums, I did not find anything else that could solve the problem, so I began to investigate. I didn't find any leaks, so I checked that possibility off my list. I then was thinking excessive vibration could cause the gas cap to come undone. Sure enough, both my of shocks in the rear were both damaged. (thought not badly.) I never noticed because there was never a "clunking" sound or harsh ride quality when driving, but I assumed that excessive vibration could cause this. I bought new shocks and waited for them to come into the mail. 3 days later of waiting for the parts, I installed them, and properly shut my gas cap. It has now been about 150-175~ miles of driving without the error coming back on. If anyone has had the same headache of trying to stop this, this has helped me so far.
So I see there is an issue with the 10 speed transmission in the Honda odyssey where the TCU could reboot and the default behavior is to go into Park, which could happen while driving. This can severely damage the parking pawl. Is this a thing we have to worry about with the RDX since it uses the same transmission?
Hi everyone I won a 2012 Tl sh awd thr elite package my vehicle does not come with the body kit but does anyone know where I can find one? Or maybe an aftermarket solution?
I am unable to find Bluettoth and AUX source as I switched source? I see AM, FM, XM but no bluetooth or AUX. Any ideas? I had some work done on my wheels recently
Last 3 week, of nice weather here in MN, I fixed this - Flange of exhaust pipe put together 2 bolts was broken, replaced rear left strut (after 11 tries), replace rear brake rotors and pads, rear right brake caliper, rear left brake caliper bracket, front left and rear right sway bar link, stop light switch. I would have to fix bump in bumper where someone hit my car bat I can live with it. So finally get rid of all problems and can fix how they come again. Obviously rear strut hold me back the most https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-strut-957355/ .
We are new owners of a beautiful 2019 Acura RDX.
We got the low gas warning yesterday, and it says to press a certain button to dismiss the warning, but we can't find the button to dismiss the low gas warning.
We looked in the manual, and there is nothing.
We googled, and can't find anything on how to reset it.
Our google searches lead us to this group, so there is that. :)
Does anyone know how to reset the low gas warning on a 2019 RDX?
Just purchased a used '08 RDX with tech. Does it come with an aux input to plug my phone into to listen to music? There are two things in the center console, one seems to be a power outlet, and the other has a plastic cap over it. I think this might be it? I've tried to get the cap off but it is on there good. Don't want to force it if it is not in fact the aux input area.
I don't drive this car a lot, but did last night. I went to turn the wipers on and noticed the wiper stalk ( and lights stalk also) are completely dark. It seems like on every car I have owned in the past...the stalks were lit just like the buttons on the steering wheel, meaning the little letters/numbers were backlit and therefore visible at night as to what setting you were aiming for. Are the these not backlit...or is it just my car?
So, the other day i was headed to my work and i heard a clank from my car. Thought because i was downtown it could have just been a bottle or something just hitting my car. As i went to park my check engine light came on and i noticed a slight scraping noise. I looked under my car and saw that my o2 sensor wires had ripped out of the sensor(i'm hella low and my dumb-ass didn't hang the wire higher :/). I preceded to work knowing i could easily get it replaced and it would be fine. After work i got back in my car, started just fine, then drove about 3 miles, and my car suddenly died. I know our cars have had Ignition switch problems so i thought that's what was happening(has happened in the past). We replaced the switch with a brand new one but once i tried to start the car, it still wouldn't turn over. So at this point I thought i ran out of gas since the gauge was pretty low. Went and got 2 gallons and put it into my car and still wouldn't turn over even while gunning the gas. So 3 days went by and after replacing the ignition switch and the main relay with 3 different relays, the car still wouldn't turn over. I got the car towed home(150$ cause i live 30 miles from where it broke down of course) and me and my dad started testing things. We couldn't hear the pump priming and the engine started sounding more and more starved of gas every time we went to start it. We checked the Pump fuse and starter fuse and pretty much every fuse that was there inside and in the engine bay(dad has a volt reader so it was easy) but every single fused looked and read fine. So we moved to the filter, removed the top line and tried to see if the pump was priming and it was the filter starving the engine. Not one drip of gas, like literally not even a trickle(we didn't remove the bottom line but even a little bit of gas should come through if the filter is clogged). So we moved to the back where the plate is for the wiring to the pump. We knew at this point, to get the pump out we have to drop the gas tank so we decided to check the wiring first and to our surprise, the wiring to the pump itself is reading no volts at all. From research, the wire should read 12v for 3 seconds, which is the v's needed to prime the pump. So we think its the wiring from the main relay(Hard to tell cause we cant find a wire diagram at all) to the pump that's messed up. Somewhere along the wire it is either cut or lose but we would have to rip up the carpet to see. At this point any help or suggestions would be appreciated, especially before I buy something i don't need. If needed, i can provide video of us trying to start the car but we feel we narrowed down that its not the sparks or anything up front, it seems to be the battery cant get power back to the pump. Thank you and please please help me get my baby back on the road. Good day.
My current oil level is at 50%. (Have around 3000 miles on the car, got the car around 2 months ago ) . Planning to go on a road trip around 2800 miles next week . My concern is should i ask my dealer for a maintenance and oil change before i start this trip?
I have a maintenance package from acura , but they said they would charge me 100 USD if i got it done before the Maintenance minder came on?
