Got a set of rep Ce28 friend. Let me know what you guys think of Look. Looking for coil overs or lowering springs currently. Pm if avail Proper grocery getter
OK, don't know if anyone else ever had this problem. I will put this in time order to keep it straight:
1) Picked up new RDX
2) Down loaded the Acura Link to my Samsung S-6 phone. It worked but was very limited in what it could do.
3) Pushed the magic button in the car and connect to Acura Link and got the account set up. I was told to log onto the site and "complete" the registration. Now the trouble began!
4) I found out my information on the web site was incorrect. Apparently Honda and Acura use the same service providers and they has old information from our 2017 Fit when I signed up there for my wife.
5) Phone call to Customer support started a crazy ride back and forth on phone calls to various people. Honda told me to talk to Acura. Acura sends me back to Honda. I am guessing there was a software issue.
6). Honda gets me straight on making the in-car part of the system working, well pat of it at least, but when I try to actually use the Acura link through my Samsung it fails.
7) The "Acura Link" software doesn't want to work. Each and every time I try to start it I get a lock up or error message. Each time I start the program it t asked me to enter my VIN and then my personal PIN. Each time the PIN is rejected as invalid and canceled.
8) More calls to Acura, they give me a case number and tell me to give them a few days!
9) I get an email, "We are closing your account. Your payment will be refunded." ??
10) A series of emails noting the account is being "Changed". After a few of these it stopped. I try the Acura Link app again and WOW...It actually worked this time! I am assuming they deleted the account and set it back up a few times or something.
10)1 One more try on the phone app and.....now everything is fine, including the remote start, reading tire pressure, etc. started working "as designed". I like it...
Fairy tales can be based on truth. Sometimes they can actually fix these things!
Just had an aftermarket head unit installed at Best Buy (Pioneer AVH-2330NEX) with steering wheel controls. Now I'm getting an intermittent HFL "Pair" message on the display. Have any of you experienced this after having a head unit installed?
Just had an aftermarket head unit installed at Best Buy (Pioneer AVH-2330NEX) with steering wheel controls. Now I'm getting an intermittent HFL "Pair" message on the display. Have any of you experienced this after having a head unit installed?
Hello! I'm a student on my first year of college, and I have an 2009 RDX with 147k miles. I'm not a mechanical expert, but my dad worked on cars for a while so I take his advise when it comes to stuff like this. I've been experiencing electrical/starter problems for the past week or so, let me explain:
A few weeks ago, I tried starting the car, but when I turned the ignition, my dash and speed dials flickered and gave out, and the car wouldn't start. I figured it was because I left a light on or something and my battery died, so I charged it, and the next time I tried starting my car, it worked. I called my dad and told him about it, and and he told me to do a simple multi-meter test to see the battery's output, to see if it will happen again. I did and it was around 11.3v with the engine off, and 12.7v with the engine running. He said this was a problem, and after a quick google search (LMGTFY) I confirmed it was an issue. The battery is less than a year old (installed on July 2018) so we made the call to get a new alternator from DB Electrical (Manufacturer Part Number: AND0485), and while we were at it, we decided to get a new Dayco drive belt, since we would be needing to take the old drive belt off anyways.
After installing the new alternator and drive belt, then taking a drive around the block, the battery output still stayed at around 11v with the engine off, and 12-13 with the engine running (but the car hasn't failed to start again). We decided to have professionals look at it, we got the battery tested at Walmart (it's where we bought the battery and we have a warranty if it is broken), and they said it was fine, then we tested both the new alternator and the battery at our local repair shop, and they said both parts were working (my dad did this without me so I don't know the details but he said that when the alternator was tested, it output 14v). The shop did recommend a new starter, and they said something like "the starter is using too many volts because it's worn, so it may be causing the problem", which sounds like them trying to make money, but it's an old car, and i'm going to need it to be reliable for college, so we shelled out the money to get it replaced anyways.
So after spending $650+ on parts and labor, the battery still outputs low voltage when tested.
the battery output still stayed at around 11v with the engine off, and 12-13 with the engine running
I've been looking around the internet throughout this whole process and looking for other solutions to the problem, but almost every website just recommends getting a new battery/alternator, both of which apparently were working in my car, can anyone give me suggestions? Thanks in advance :)
Other Info:
-There has never been a warning or indicator light on the dash throughout this whole process.
-Alternator and starter are both less than a week old, less than 50 miles driven on them.
-Battery is less than a year old, 3-4k miles on it.
-Old drive belt shows no sign of uneven wear (idk if this is relevant).
-Car has only failed to start once, everything we've done is in hopes to prevent it from failing to start again, we didn't know for a fact if anything was broken when we replaced parts, but better safe then sorry right?
So I know this is a fairly beaten topic, however i could not find a definitive answer in my search on the forums. I currently have a 2000 Acura TL as a project car and have deleted the mid muffler and resonator; leaving the CAT and stock rear mufflers installed. I would like to delete the rear mufflers and potentially reinstall a resonator. Based on the opinions of a couple colleagues of mine, they state that doing so without installing a resonator could cause bad back pressure; potentially burning exhaust valves. From my research on the forums, I do not see anyone having any issues with this and have also seen a couple users state that back pressure for the J-Series engine in particular isn't necessarily relevant to a straight pipe exhaust setup. So of course I wanted further insight from other 2G TL owners on this; (and yes I know straight pipes are considered "rice" but as this is a project car and a modification I would like to make, I could do without the rice commentary).
anyone experience all dash warning lights comes on and trans pop to neutral when car is stop and go traffic. nothing can be done but turning off engine. turning off and on engine did not help. car stay on neutral.
Then after engine was off for at least 15 min. it seem to be able to pop back to drive but all dash warning lights are still on. after leaving engine off for 30 min to 1hr, it seem to just have the vsa light and a few more minutes of driving,vsa light also went off and car was back to normal. not sure if this has anything to do with it, the car haven't been drove in over 10 days and the car was in the dealer 3 weeks ago for nhtsa recall 19v-060.
I have an appointment for windshield replacement next week with the glass guy my hubby knows. He wants to replace with a Pilkington which he claims
will not require any recalibration at the dealer. I'm skeptical after reading this forum that the Pilkington will work like my OEM with the features of my car.
I hope someone can point me in the right direction before I have the windshield replaced. I'm not up for any more issues right now.
Help me o wise ostrich owners!!!!!!
PurchAsed a cold air intake kit from eBay that was less expensive then some others out there. The flange inside diameter is 3 inch , height 5.25 and base 6. Looking to upgrade to 21-203DK AEM DryFlow Air Filter but just curious if it will fit. Theres so many different types and sizes
I reviewed the owners manual in the maintenance section and I believe the air filter is called the air cleaner element, but doesn't show how to safely/properly replace the engine air filter. I only have 1000 miles but I'm taking this 2019 RDX to South Korea for 3 years since I'll be stationed there. I want to replace them with the K&N filters after I hit the 15,000 mile mark with the OEM filters since I had good experiences with K&N in the past. Does anyone have links/instructions to take on this task that I could access?
HELP! I bought K&N 33-3096 as a direct engine air filter replacement. I consider myself handy but for the life of me I cant figure out how to get to the existing filter. I see the housing on the front right of the engine compartment. 3 of the 4 phillips head screws are accessible. But it looks as if you got to take apart an air shroud (or something) to get to the one on in the front on the right side. Im hoping thats not the case because I cant see how to do so.
Can anyone share dissemble instructions & offer photos if you have them.
