I have a 02 mdx and my girl was driving from work on the highway as she was coming off the vehicle started to make a clunking sound i thought it was the timing belt I went and bought one started to be wake it down and the tensioner wasn't loose and the belt looked fine . next I changed the knock sensor put it back together same thing any suggestions??
So I just got done performing the B16 service myself at 12,500 miles. I replaced the air filter, which was very dirty, cabin air filter, also very dirty. I should of gotten pics of the cabin filter, the old one was completely dark grey and the new one is pure white (all Honda/Acura oem parts ordered from the dealer).
I also replaced the engine oil with filter, took about 5.1 quarts out, and put exactly the same amount back in, very slight smell of gas at first but not towards the end, seems low enough to not even be a worry.
I replaced the rear differential fluid, which was very easy to do, opened the fill port, drained from the drain port, and refilled. Ran car in park for 1 minute, and rechecked fluid level which was still good and slowly weeping from the full port. Btw you use Acura DPSF, do not use the Honda version which had the same part number minus the A at the end, as it is different fluid not made for SH-AWD. It was $6 a quart and you need 2 of them.
BTW I followed all the Acura manuals to a T and used factory torque specs, and new washers when replacing fluids.
Now to the good part, with the B16 service your supposed to check the tranny fluid level, you run the car, go from P -> N -> D -> S -> 2nd -> S -> D -> N -> P, and for each gear change you let it sit there for about 3 seconds. Then Immediately you check the fluid level by pulling out the check bolt which I had already loosened and it should weep tranny fluid. Also to add you need to be on a level surface, I had 4 - 9inch ramps I drove up so my car was in the air level when I did this. So when pulling the check bolt, I had no weeping for about 1 minute, and it was a very very minute amount. So I had ordered 1 quart of Acuras 2.0 ATF and I went through the process with shifting again, opened up the fill port and leave the check closed, and started pumping ATF into the tranny fill port. I opened up the check port after about 1/4 the bottle was pumped in and it started weeping very good. At this point I decided to just pump in all the fluid and let the extra weep out of the check port, doesnt hurt to have some new fluid in there. After pumping in the quart I let the check port drain while it had a decent flow, and once it slowed down to a very slow slow flow I closed up the check port, so at this point it is at the Level Acura recommends, slightly weeping from the check port.
I probably in the end added maybe 1/8 a quart total that ended up staying in the tranny, and let me say it had made a noticeable difference. My shifts are considerably smoother when the engine is cold. When I was on the ramps before doing this fluid add/check going into drive from park would give a decent bump/clunk, probably from the load on the parking pawl. After adding the small amount I did, shifting into drive had no noise at all, smooth and buttery. I also notice my shifts when driving harder on the throttle are noticeably smoother and very slightly faster.
Sure some of this could be placebo effect, but I do honestly notice a difference. It appears to me the tranny was very very slightly under filled at the factory by 1/8 a quart, perhaps from the driving and fluid getting into every nook and cranny over the 12.5k miles.
I am am going to keep an eye on the morning shifts when cold and any other rougher/bumpier shifting, but it seems so far to have made a difference. The goal is not to overfill the tranny, but with the check port thats almost impossible to do, as it will drain out any extra that is above the check ports hole.
Anyone else done a tranny fluid check on the tranny fluid or have had it serviced?
I prefer to do my own servicing, it way cheaper, gives me something to do, learn new things, and I know it was done right and not rushed by a tech wanting to go home for the day.
So after numerous intermittent crashes, my infotainment system (including all the speakers in the car) was pronounced dead on June 12, 2019. The car has been sitting at my dealer since then, awaiting new parts. I've been told that they are replacing the CPU and that the part is back ordered, with the latest ETA being July 3.
I'm wondering if anyone else has gone through the same thing and had Acura actually replace the CPU for the infotainment. I keep dreaming that the delay is due to a brand-new updated bug-free CPU that they've just manufactured :)
The good news is that I've been driving a loaner MDX A-Spec that I actually really like.
I just had to replace all four tires on my 2018 TLX Aspec AWD due to hitting a pot hole that damaged two of the tires and one of the rims. I am getting the rim repaired and plan to have an alignment done after the rim is repaired. The new tires are already on the vehicle. I called Firestone and they charge $89.99 to do an alignment but the guy on the phone mentioned they might have an issue with the lane keeping assist system (LKAS). Acura charges $169.99 for an alignment and didn't mention anything about the LKAS. Anyone have an alignment done at Firestone and run in to issue with the LKAS afterwards? I'd prefer to avoid going to the dealership for an alignment.
Someone on facebook found out about this. It allows you to re-enable developer mode in android, and you can switch the USB port to ADB mode instead of car play. There are also tons of options for flashing the entertainment unit, doing speaker tests, AC conditioner tests, and many other options.
This works on the the newest update, seems this is where they moved the once easily available developer menu. When in the Developer option mode there are a ton of new settings in there I have never seen. Even options to disable speakers for testing, testing for rattles at certain frequency HZ. The options that are new are after the step where you hold down the cards button for several seconds, thats the new menu that I dont think anyone was aware of. Once Honda sees we can access this Im sure they will change it in the next update
Greetings, comrades. A few days ago my transmission apparently let go. But there are a few weird nuances that I feel I should go through, so here's a history of how the illness developed over recent time.
My problems started about a week ago, give or take. When driving foot to the floor, I could sense a barely noticeable shudder when the box would shift from second to third. And I mean barely noticeable, most drivers outside of myself would probably not even feel it. Then that progressed to a flare (I think that's what they call it on this forum?), when during the upshift the engine would rev up about 500 RPM as if the box were slipping. The weird thing is that in manual mode the flare would either go away completely or be very minor. I'd also get a pronounced push when the box would shift from third to second (during normal driving without any aggression). Which, again, went away completely when using manual mode. After a few days the flare became very prolonged, to the point where third gear would completely stop engaging for a while. Then it would return for a bit. The car became basically undriveable a couple of days ago, when I went out for an evening drive, and at some point I started experiencing weird unwanted downshifts and a ton of slippage. I obviously flipped around and headed back home, but I didn't make it. With only a kilometer to go, I was stuck on the side of the road, the box wouldn't catch a gear no matter which position the selector was in. Reverse also wasn't working. No jolts, no clunking, the car just wouldn't move, and the engine revved as if the box was in neutral. For that last kilometer I was towed on a rope by a Lada (which was a bit embarassing).
I did what I could to make the box feel better when my main ailment was just that small flare: I removed the linear pressure solenoid for a clean (it wasn't that dirty, could've just left it installed), as well as the three shift solenoids (also looking good). After that whole ordeal with the slippage and being towed on a rope, I did notice that the car would in fact move when completely cool, the symptoms described would mostly come back as soon as I'd put a bit of heat into the box. I went out for a test drive today after swapping one of the solenoids, and for a while the car was happily moving in first and second gear, but as soon as I left the gravel road next to my home in the country and drove onto some pavement - the box made an attempt at going into third, and failed (I'd already thoroughly warmed everything up by that point). The other gears also stopped working all of a sudden. All I had left was reverse, and thankfully the car was able to make the one kilometer (or thereabouts) drive back home in reverse, without any slippage or anything like that.
This all seems to be a bit erratic for a transmission that has already decided to leave and never return. After doing a fair share of reading, I'm thinking that perhaps this might be an issue with the pressure switches? I'm prepared to bite the bullet and get myself another transmission, but I am hoping that maybe a few functional pressure switches would at least allow me to make my way to my Moscow based repair shop (about 100 kilometers from where I live) and not call in a flatbed. Or maybe even make the car driveable for some considerable amount of time, I don't know.
The gearbox is an MRDA unit from a JDM Honda Inspire UC1 (not the B7WA which you'd usually find on this sort of car). I've done partial fluid changes every 10-15 thousand k's or so (Honda DW-1), the fluid looks ok, doesn't smell like it's burnt, I have an oil cooler installed from a Honda Legend KB1, so, aside from my aggressive driving style, I took decent care of the transmission. The pressure switches appear to be the same part number as the ones used in the 3G TL's, which apparently fail after a while. This particular box has done 110 thousand kilometers (approximately 70 thousand miles), so I'm guessing they might be dead. I guess my question is - is there any hope for this one? Or I shouldn't get my hopes up, considering that - even if this is a pressure switch issue - all of that slipping might've taken a permanent toll on the gearbox? BTW, I didn't see the "D" indicator on the dash flashing, and the car isn't throwing a check engine light. I guess that also sort of points to potential internal damage of the transmission, rather than an electrical malfunction?
My 02 MDX, radio, NAV, and a.c. displays will not show. Then my cruise control stopped working. Now i have no electric in the cabin. It will not even try to start. I've checked fuses. I've pulled battery cables. I just read the anti theft and radio are together. Need to check wires to fuse box. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
Heard clunk noise while driving... Got home soon after and there is a line of dripping in the driveway. I put a cup under the drip and it's water... Completely clear water? Weird. It's coming from beside the jpipe. Also noticed my coolant seems a little low but my coolant is blue and the drip is clear. Here's some pictures of the area. Does it look normal?
I decided since i like my 98 RL premium @ 208,000 mileage so much and I'm unaware of it's maintenance history I would go ahead and put in a timing belt kit. I ordered a Gates timing belt kit w/ water pump (Gates TCKWP279) thinking it close enough to OE. But after reading a lot of complaints of people getting Chinese pumps in certain kits I'm questioning whether or not I should use this kit or not when it gets here tomorrow. Anyone have a hands on experience using this Gates kit? Or the quality of their water pumps etc they are putting in these kits.
i need a realistic answer on what to do next. i got my head resurfaced with new plugs,seals, everything is new... 2 weeks later i replaced oil pan and gasket, filled it up with fresh oil and new filter, drove around town and the timing belt snapped off. my friend said its the oil pump so i bought a new one with a timing belt too but not sure what to do....
is it better to replace the whole block or replace one part at a time???
I don't know what happened. I fill with premium gas. I never over fill. I fill the tank full until the pump clicks every time. The gauge stops just below half tank. I get 430km a tank highway driving and I'm at 350km and the gauge says I'm still just below half tank.
Got em used staggered with hub spacers for acura tl 19x9.5 and 19x10.5 5x120 no clue who makes em Old rims factory elite every single one is off round and vibrate
Stock ride hieght on koni FSDs which are amazing btw
Currently running 245/45/19 all around and love em pilot sport as3+ is the best all around tire imo.
Looking to run 275/40/19 rear they are the exact same height as 245/45/19s so awd is happy, the extra height on the tire gives better grip aswell as comfort and the witdth means no more spinning on launch I have a 6mt and even on dry sunny days i get a bit of spin in the rain even more, plus wide ass rear tires look serious from behind. I have them already mounted on staggered wheels fronts are fine rears obviously rub, thinking about cutting and welding the existing fender and then painting it back. Body shop is concerned about long term rust from the cutting. Anyone else tried this?
I'm interested in slightly lowering my 2012 TL (FWD) maybe an 1" to 1 1/4", but at the same time do not want to effect the ride and geometry as some springs can. Eibach offers their "Pro-Kit" but I have not experience with this product. Other manufacturers like H&R, Tein, etc. are popular too, just looking for opinions. Thanks
Hello all, my 07 rdx decided not to start . It turns over just fine but not a hint of ignition . I pulled to fuel line at the rail and I get a good flow just no spark . This happened suddenly and there are no related codes . Any ideas. Thanks ,Dave
Been reading some posts while considering a new RDX and thought it might be good to join up. Anyhow, great place youve got here and I look forward to contributing here shortly as our purchase will be in the next couple weeks.
I was wonder if the next gen MDX comes out with all the features that on the RDX and better, (for example the traffic jam assist that Acura only offers on the RLX sport hybrid.) would it be feasible that Acura could charge 70k for an adv MDX sport hybrid/ adv MDX Shawd or MDX type-s
