Does anyone know where i can access a video or even paper manul with instructions on where cps is at and how to replace it? Also is there any way to rebuild the old one or clean it off or anything like that? Car still starts just runs like crap replaced the fuel pump last week now on way home from work yesterday just started running like crap and the check engine light popped on and code says to replace crankshaft position sensor. So no clue where or how hard it will be to do? Any help much appreciated thx in advance
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2000 crankshaft position sensor
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FS: 2008 NBP Acura TL Type S - 6 Speed Manual
Up for sale is my extremely well maintained low mileage 2008 Acura TL Type S 6-speed in Nighthawk Black Pearl. The title is clean and in hand with zero accidents. I purchased the car on January 8th, 2014 from O'Reilly Buick GMC in Newtown Square, PA with 50,572 miles. The car is currently at 110,337 miles and slowly increasing as it is my daily driver. The engine is very smooth and the clutch/transmission shifts with ease. There is zero slipping or grinding. Since owning the car, there have been zero issues other than routine maintenance. The car has a few tasteful modifications done to it but it is mostly stock. I have almost every record of every part or repairs done to the vehicle. I had the 105k service completed on 9/20/18 when the car had just over 103k miles. This consisted of replacing the timing belt, drive belt, water pump, spark plugs, coolant flush, and thermostat. The car was just inspected in March and has brand new all season tires. Additionally, I purchased the 2017 OEM navigation map update. Here is a list of everything that has been done to the car maintenance wise since I have owned it:
Maintenance:
1/8/14 Purchased from O'Reilly Buick GMC - 50,572 miles
4/3/14 Oil change - 53,379 miles
9/22/14 Oil change - 58,859 miles
3/9/15 Oil change - 64,592 miles
7/30/15/ Oil change - 70,736 miles
11/27/15 Replaced clutch slave cylinder with check valve delete
Transmission fluid change with GM synchromesh and SS clutch line - 74,550 miles
12/29/15 Oil change - 76,055 miles
1/27/16 Stop tech rotors and pads installed - 76,725 miles
3/25/16 Alignment with rear camber kit adjustment
6/24/16 Oil change - 81,403 miles
7/31/16 Replaced rear upstream 02 sensor - 83,150 miles
9/2/16 Replaced APP sensor
11/7/16 Oil change - 87,418 miles
2/4/17 Replaced power steering o ring and changed fluid, 90,500 miles
4/27/17 Oil change 92,586 miles
7/3/17 Clean AEM Filter - 94,211 miles about 25k since install
11/4/17 Oil change 97,413 miles
1/3/18 Changed transmission fluid with GM synchromesh - 98,775 miles
2/5/18 Replaced battery
5/31/18 Oil change 101,522 miles
9/20/18 105k Service - Timing belt, drive belt, water pump, spark plugs, coolant flush, replaced thermostat. - 103,867 miles
6/13/19 - New Tires installed
Modifications:
EndlessRPM Catback Exhaust with Vibrant Resonator (zero drone)
EndlessRPM J-Pipe
Tein Street Advance Coilovers with SPC Rear Camber Kit ( I have the stock suspension)
AEM V2 Cold Air Intake ( I have the stock intake)
Full factory ASPEC body kit
OEM Window Visors
Carbon Fiber Interior Trim Pieces
Custom Headlights by JnC with ZWKR lenses, Phillips 6000k D2S, VLEDS 5K DRLs, 5500 LED Switchbacks, and 5500 LED fog lights (I have mostly all of the OEM bulbs).
Being a 11 year old car, there are a few flaws. There is a scratch on the passenger rear quarter panel from the previous owner (see pictures). There is a small scratch on driver's side rear door from the previous owner (see pictures). The famous "Tighten Fuel Cap" message appears maybe once every few months. This can be resolved by replacing the Purge Control Solenoid Valve. The dashboard is slightly fading near the airbag (see pictures).
This car needs absolutely nothing and will last for a very long time. The number of compliments I still get to this day about the car is unreal. It's a very rare car and you do not see them in this good of shape and maintained the way I have. I truly do not want to let it go but the car is becoming a bit too impractical for my active lifestyle. Please feel free to reach out to me for any questions, concerns, or if you would like additional pictures. I am located in Chester County, PA and willing to meet within a 100 miles radius. I can be reached via email at Ryan.Fettinger@gmail.com or 484-798-7522.
Pictures
The upload photo feature is not working properly and will try again tomorrow. In the meantime, I have uploaded all of the pictures to my Google Drive listed below:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ra...rqJtMkZa1Rua4c
Maintenance:
1/8/14 Purchased from O'Reilly Buick GMC - 50,572 miles
4/3/14 Oil change - 53,379 miles
9/22/14 Oil change - 58,859 miles
3/9/15 Oil change - 64,592 miles
7/30/15/ Oil change - 70,736 miles
11/27/15 Replaced clutch slave cylinder with check valve delete
Transmission fluid change with GM synchromesh and SS clutch line - 74,550 miles
12/29/15 Oil change - 76,055 miles
1/27/16 Stop tech rotors and pads installed - 76,725 miles
3/25/16 Alignment with rear camber kit adjustment
6/24/16 Oil change - 81,403 miles
7/31/16 Replaced rear upstream 02 sensor - 83,150 miles
9/2/16 Replaced APP sensor
11/7/16 Oil change - 87,418 miles
2/4/17 Replaced power steering o ring and changed fluid, 90,500 miles
4/27/17 Oil change 92,586 miles
7/3/17 Clean AEM Filter - 94,211 miles about 25k since install
11/4/17 Oil change 97,413 miles
1/3/18 Changed transmission fluid with GM synchromesh - 98,775 miles
2/5/18 Replaced battery
5/31/18 Oil change 101,522 miles
9/20/18 105k Service - Timing belt, drive belt, water pump, spark plugs, coolant flush, replaced thermostat. - 103,867 miles
6/13/19 - New Tires installed
Modifications:
EndlessRPM Catback Exhaust with Vibrant Resonator (zero drone)
EndlessRPM J-Pipe
Tein Street Advance Coilovers with SPC Rear Camber Kit ( I have the stock suspension)
AEM V2 Cold Air Intake ( I have the stock intake)
Full factory ASPEC body kit
OEM Window Visors
Carbon Fiber Interior Trim Pieces
Custom Headlights by JnC with ZWKR lenses, Phillips 6000k D2S, VLEDS 5K DRLs, 5500 LED Switchbacks, and 5500 LED fog lights (I have mostly all of the OEM bulbs).
Being a 11 year old car, there are a few flaws. There is a scratch on the passenger rear quarter panel from the previous owner (see pictures). There is a small scratch on driver's side rear door from the previous owner (see pictures). The famous "Tighten Fuel Cap" message appears maybe once every few months. This can be resolved by replacing the Purge Control Solenoid Valve. The dashboard is slightly fading near the airbag (see pictures).
This car needs absolutely nothing and will last for a very long time. The number of compliments I still get to this day about the car is unreal. It's a very rare car and you do not see them in this good of shape and maintained the way I have. I truly do not want to let it go but the car is becoming a bit too impractical for my active lifestyle. Please feel free to reach out to me for any questions, concerns, or if you would like additional pictures. I am located in Chester County, PA and willing to meet within a 100 miles radius. I can be reached via email at Ryan.Fettinger@gmail.com or 484-798-7522.
Pictures
The upload photo feature is not working properly and will try again tomorrow. In the meantime, I have uploaded all of the pictures to my Google Drive listed below:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ra...rqJtMkZa1Rua4c
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19' TLX V6 Transmission jerk switching from Reverse to Drive
Hi,
I have a 2019 TLX Aspec SH-AWD with barely 2000km on it, but I noticed there's a significant jerk when I change the gear from Reverse to Drive. It happens without me even touching the gas. With the Brake Hold on, it's a lot less noticeable so that helps a bit but it's really annoying otherwise.
Is this normal? I'm not sure if this is something worth showing to the dealership. I should mention that this car has the right door harness replaced a few weeks earlier but the jerk issue has been there since day 1. I'm just trying to get other opinions before i bother with the service center. TIA
I have a 2019 TLX Aspec SH-AWD with barely 2000km on it, but I noticed there's a significant jerk when I change the gear from Reverse to Drive. It happens without me even touching the gas. With the Brake Hold on, it's a lot less noticeable so that helps a bit but it's really annoying otherwise.
Is this normal? I'm not sure if this is something worth showing to the dealership. I should mention that this car has the right door harness replaced a few weeks earlier but the jerk issue has been there since day 1. I'm just trying to get other opinions before i bother with the service center. TIA
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Mountain down hill shifting or braking
2019 RDX Advance. I have searched YouTube vids and this forum but have not been able to find the answers to these questions.
1. Best method for driving downhill on long, windy and steep grades in reference to brakes or transmission choices?
2. Which would you consider to be least costly on wear of engine, transmission and engine.
3. I have tried using the paddles going down the steep grades but unable to create smooth transitions.
Example : I am on a flat area coming up to a beginning of a long downhill grade. I am going 75 and start to increase speed due to downhill grade. If I use left paddle and pull up once
the rpm shoots up pretty high. Just sounds to high and doesn't feel right. On my old Acura TL I would put in manual mode and shift up and down and that seamed much smoother.
Not sure if this makes any sense to anyone but I know that there are many on this forum with better automotive knowledge than I.
1. Best method for driving downhill on long, windy and steep grades in reference to brakes or transmission choices?
2. Which would you consider to be least costly on wear of engine, transmission and engine.
3. I have tried using the paddles going down the steep grades but unable to create smooth transitions.
Example : I am on a flat area coming up to a beginning of a long downhill grade. I am going 75 and start to increase speed due to downhill grade. If I use left paddle and pull up once
the rpm shoots up pretty high. Just sounds to high and doesn't feel right. On my old Acura TL I would put in manual mode and shift up and down and that seamed much smoother.
Not sure if this makes any sense to anyone but I know that there are many on this forum with better automotive knowledge than I.
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FS: 2004 TL in PA
Just had water pump & timing belt job done. Also just put new rear calipers, pads & rotors on. Car is mechanically sound. Drive anywhere.
216k miles
Axis wheels
OEM A-Spec Kit
LED lighting inside & out
It obviously has cosmetic damage.
Selling because this is a 3rd car for me & I just do not use it.
Leather interior, auto trans, power windows, mirrors, seats, etc.
Passenger window motor needs to be replaced (I will give you a brand new one with the car) I just have not gotten around to it.
216k miles
Axis wheels
OEM A-Spec Kit
LED lighting inside & out
It obviously has cosmetic damage.
Selling because this is a 3rd car for me & I just do not use it.
Leather interior, auto trans, power windows, mirrors, seats, etc.
Passenger window motor needs to be replaced (I will give you a brand new one with the car) I just have not gotten around to it.
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2018 TLX Aspec AWD Tire Question
I have a 2018 TLX Aspec AWD. Today while washing the car I noticed that my driver's side front and driver's side rear have bulges in the tire. The bulges are located in the sidewall. I am willing to bet this is a result of hitting a pothole, but I'm note entirely positive. I did a quick google search online and it sounds like I need to replace both tires because this is extremely unsafe to drive. My question is do I have to replace all four tires or can I get a way with only replacing two? I only have just under 20,000 miles on all four tires.
I thought I remember reading when buying the car that the rear tires are slightly wider than the fronts. Is this true? Or am I misremembering this? If this is the case, I would assume that confirms I need to replace all four tires.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I thought I remember reading when buying the car that the rear tires are slightly wider than the fronts. Is this true? Or am I misremembering this? If this is the case, I would assume that confirms I need to replace all four tires.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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2010 rl
Hi, happy to find this forum looking forward to gaining technical knowledge.
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Auxiliary Input Question
If I have music on a USB stick and then I get to my destination and turn off the car, the sound system keeps functioning until I open the door. So am I supposed to just rip out the USB stick in the middle of the song? Or do I have to open the door so the sound system turns off, then turn back and remove the USB stick? Or do you switch the sound input to something else (like radio, for example) and then take out the USB stick and then open the door?
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Any recommendations for lowering springs?
I have a 2012 awd TL, does anyone have any suggestions for a brand of lowering springs?
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Message quota
Someone has send me a private message, but i cant answer him because we only have place for 2 message in our mail box and his seem to be full.... Is this normal?
I had to delete the welcome message from Acurazine to be able to save my message, so i guess something is wrong
I had to delete the welcome message from Acurazine to be able to save my message, so i guess something is wrong
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Soft brakes/Squealing noise sometimes
Hello Friends, I need your help and advice. I have a 2010 Acura TSX with 75,000 mile and it is almost 9 years old car. Recently I have been observing mushy or soft brakes - where I had to hit the brake pedal hard - so I took my car to my mechanic. At the shop the brakes were working fine again and the mechanic could not find the problem - He mentioned the car had 90% front Brake pads and 30% rear brake pads. He was under the impression that it might be a stuck stone type of situation but its been around two weeks and now my wife also feels the mushy brakes. I did check the brake fluid - it looks clean and is full. From time to time I do hear a squealing noise while braking but not all the time. I did notice the noise sometimes when I release parking brake and am reversing on my drive way which is on a slope. I suspect it could be the master brake cylinder or not sure If this is the case of stuck/freezing Caliper and if so not sure if I need to replace the front or the back caliper in case of a mushy brake pad situation? I am also not sure if it could be a problem with a brake line which exhibit similarity to a frozen caliper?
I am not an expert in cars but am currently frustrated as why the mechanic was not able to find the problem with my mushy brakes. I do agree it was working fine during the test drive with him and then started acting up from time to time.
Thanks once again for your help and support in this regard..
I am not an expert in cars but am currently frustrated as why the mechanic was not able to find the problem with my mushy brakes. I do agree it was working fine during the test drive with him and then started acting up from time to time.
Thanks once again for your help and support in this regard..
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Trailer hitch choices
Hey friends,
I know it's no one's preference, but I'll be installing a hitch on my TL in order to trailer a street bike and a dirt bike on a 5x8 trailer. Total should be about 1500 lbs.
Like I said, it's not ideal, but it's all I've got. And given the number of others in here who have done it, I'm not expecting any problems.
But I'm seeing two different hitch mounting options, one from Curt that attaches to the tow hook and metal bumper (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Acura/TL/2006/11321.html?vehicleid=20066349#exp-productdetails=.all-description)
The other is by Draw Tite (Reese has the same option), and it mounts to the tow hook and the trunk pan. (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Acura/TL/2006/24755.html?vehicleID=20067031)
I would think the bumper would provide a more solid mount, but what do you think? Do you have any experience with either?
I know it's no one's preference, but I'll be installing a hitch on my TL in order to trailer a street bike and a dirt bike on a 5x8 trailer. Total should be about 1500 lbs.
Like I said, it's not ideal, but it's all I've got. And given the number of others in here who have done it, I'm not expecting any problems.
But I'm seeing two different hitch mounting options, one from Curt that attaches to the tow hook and metal bumper (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Acura/TL/2006/11321.html?vehicleid=20066349#exp-productdetails=.all-description)
The other is by Draw Tite (Reese has the same option), and it mounts to the tow hook and the trunk pan. (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Acura/TL/2006/24755.html?vehicleID=20067031)
I would think the bumper would provide a more solid mount, but what do you think? Do you have any experience with either?
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RDX 2016-18 the right choice vs RAV4 Hybrid?
Hello - first time post here. Question about this RDX model.
Wife wants to lose the minivan now that the kids are older, and she wants 4WD for the occasional snow. I offered to get snow tires for the Minivan, but she'd rather downsize anyway (will likely get snow tires for the new CUV - whichever she picks). Our budget is under $30K.
Looked at the CRV, but her mom drives one, so she has no interest (and to me, dodged the 1.5T bullet). CX5 doesn't do it for her, and neither does much else (also, the mechanic we've used and trust is Japanese-cars only, and we've been honda since 1987 with an odd non-Honda here and there).
Because the CRV got knocked out, she was tracking to a 2019 RAV4 Hybrid -- great MPG and enough power. But then she test drove a 2018 RDX (on my suggestion) and I think she's in love, lol. Looks to be the one we will get. I actually like the RAV4, but there were some issues -- the Limited with leather is technically out of budget (the vehicle is so hot in our area, dealers won't come off MSRP, so $38K), and you had to get to leather to get seat memory and homelink (both of which are important to her). I think she would really have liked the RAV4 MPG if for nothing but the frequency of refueling. I have an 09 MDX which I love EXCEPT the thing sucks gas and is a terrible commuter. I think she would also like CarPlay, but who knows -- Apple could easily change the whole car play thing in 2 or 3 years (as Apple often changes their tech), so that doesn't seem like a good reason to buy a car, IMO.
If you look at costs over several years, the MPG savings on the 2019RAV4 Hybrid would even-out it's initial higher cost, but I think she also liked the simple refinement of the Acura, which I can't criticize at all. It's just a better ride.
So, if we are looking at 2016-18, because she wants the safety features of the Advance package -- is there anything we should specifically examine/have looked at? Is one of the years better/worse than the other (apart from a 2016 being 2 years older than a 2018). It looks to me like they are the same vehicle in pretty much every way.
I have not read glowing reviews on the AWD system, but coming from an 05 FWD Minivan, I'm sure it's going to be better in all ways. The NAV gets dinged, but she uses Waze (which doesn't play well with Apple car play). I don't use nav in my MDX anymore, but even if traveling to a place I know, I still like having the large screen street maps.
Does anyone subscribe to AcuraLink for real time traffic updates? How does that work?
Anything else to consider/that I should look for when looking at one of these?
Thanks for any helps.
Wife wants to lose the minivan now that the kids are older, and she wants 4WD for the occasional snow. I offered to get snow tires for the Minivan, but she'd rather downsize anyway (will likely get snow tires for the new CUV - whichever she picks). Our budget is under $30K.
Looked at the CRV, but her mom drives one, so she has no interest (and to me, dodged the 1.5T bullet). CX5 doesn't do it for her, and neither does much else (also, the mechanic we've used and trust is Japanese-cars only, and we've been honda since 1987 with an odd non-Honda here and there).
Because the CRV got knocked out, she was tracking to a 2019 RAV4 Hybrid -- great MPG and enough power. But then she test drove a 2018 RDX (on my suggestion) and I think she's in love, lol. Looks to be the one we will get. I actually like the RAV4, but there were some issues -- the Limited with leather is technically out of budget (the vehicle is so hot in our area, dealers won't come off MSRP, so $38K), and you had to get to leather to get seat memory and homelink (both of which are important to her). I think she would really have liked the RAV4 MPG if for nothing but the frequency of refueling. I have an 09 MDX which I love EXCEPT the thing sucks gas and is a terrible commuter. I think she would also like CarPlay, but who knows -- Apple could easily change the whole car play thing in 2 or 3 years (as Apple often changes their tech), so that doesn't seem like a good reason to buy a car, IMO.
If you look at costs over several years, the MPG savings on the 2019RAV4 Hybrid would even-out it's initial higher cost, but I think she also liked the simple refinement of the Acura, which I can't criticize at all. It's just a better ride.
So, if we are looking at 2016-18, because she wants the safety features of the Advance package -- is there anything we should specifically examine/have looked at? Is one of the years better/worse than the other (apart from a 2016 being 2 years older than a 2018). It looks to me like they are the same vehicle in pretty much every way.
I have not read glowing reviews on the AWD system, but coming from an 05 FWD Minivan, I'm sure it's going to be better in all ways. The NAV gets dinged, but she uses Waze (which doesn't play well with Apple car play). I don't use nav in my MDX anymore, but even if traveling to a place I know, I still like having the large screen street maps.
Does anyone subscribe to AcuraLink for real time traffic updates? How does that work?
Anything else to consider/that I should look for when looking at one of these?
Thanks for any helps.
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Passenger side mirror rotated all the way
Every time the engine is started the passenger side mirror would rotate all the way out.
is there a way to adjust it so it would go back to the memorized position?
it was ok before the last visit to dealership, guess they messed it up when doing the service.
Thanks
is there a way to adjust it so it would go back to the memorized position?
it was ok before the last visit to dealership, guess they messed it up when doing the service.
Thanks
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My F10 BMW 535i xDrive needed a new valve cover gasket...
So I went ahead a upgraded the car entirely! Picked up a G01 Phytonic Blue BMW X3 M40i with Cognac Vernasca Leather. For an SUV, this thing MOVES! And helps me deal with Chicago potholes.
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Radar Detector Wire Run
Hi All! New member here btw so take it easy on me :)
I recently got a 2019 TLX A spec and i love it so far! I just recently purchased a radar detector and am looking to run the wire nice and neat. My plan is to run the wire from the center console, along the center dash, underneath the steering wheel column, along the side of the dash and set up shop in the bottom left of the windshield ( i know this isn't most ideal location performance wise but thats where i want it to be out the center of the dash).
My concern is running the wire along the side of the dash, i have two specific concerns:
1. Will there be enough room for the door to close properly without damaging the wire
2. Will there be enough space to add some sort of 3m cable clips to keep it nice and tidy? If so, any recommendations that have worked?
Thanks so much!
I recently got a 2019 TLX A spec and i love it so far! I just recently purchased a radar detector and am looking to run the wire nice and neat. My plan is to run the wire from the center console, along the center dash, underneath the steering wheel column, along the side of the dash and set up shop in the bottom left of the windshield ( i know this isn't most ideal location performance wise but thats where i want it to be out the center of the dash).
My concern is running the wire along the side of the dash, i have two specific concerns:
1. Will there be enough room for the door to close properly without damaging the wire
2. Will there be enough space to add some sort of 3m cable clips to keep it nice and tidy? If so, any recommendations that have worked?
Thanks so much!
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NAVTOOL in 2G MDX
Has anyone tried it yet? I'm interested in getting it for my wife's MDX as the GPS is outdated. Figured using this solution can keep the existing infrastructure and just mirror her phone on the factory display using Android auto to use apps for GPS, music, etc.
https://www.navtool.com/acura-mdx-2010-2013-top-level-category.aspx
https://www.navtool.com/acura-mdx-2010-2013-top-level-category.aspx
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Resale value of old dinged up bumper?
Finally getting around to replacing a scratched up bumper (original thread).
Since I'll be getting a new bumper, I'm wondering if the old one that has a gash has any resale value, either to a junkyard or online? Anyone have experience with selling their old, slightly damaged bumper?
Since I'll be getting a new bumper, I'm wondering if the old one that has a gash has any resale value, either to a junkyard or online? Anyone have experience with selling their old, slightly damaged bumper?
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Back in Black
Lost a battle with a 2x4 on rt3 in NJ. Cracked two rims. Tires were old so updated to new rims and tires. Then recoated the steering wheel and rear speaker tray.
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New Apple CarPlay is awesome! (iOS 13)
Apple has made its biggest change to CarPlay and it's coming in iOS 13.
Before you get too excited, iOS 13 won't be released to the general public until around September. You can access the closed beta firmware with a developers account or when Apple releases the open beta in July, you can access it by being a member of Apple's beta program (free). It's something to look forward to because I see this as a major improvement. All that's left is adding compatibility for the native TrueTouch controls in the RDX. One can only dream....
New to CarPlay:
Before you get too excited, iOS 13 won't be released to the general public until around September. You can access the closed beta firmware with a developers account or when Apple releases the open beta in July, you can access it by being a member of Apple's beta program (free). It's something to look forward to because I see this as a major improvement. All that's left is adding compatibility for the native TrueTouch controls in the RDX. One can only dream....
New to CarPlay:
- In the photo below, you will see the new CarPlay dashboard. It include a small map (Apple Maps only), quick links for finding places in the area, music controls, and calendar events. Yes calendar events. You can now glance at your calendar using CarPlay in your RDX. Swipe over to the succeeding pages and you will have a familiar layout of app icons as you see now in CarPlay.
- Apple has decoupled the infotainment screen from the phone. Meaning that using maps on your infotainment won't open maps on your phone. Same for music or whatever else you use. They are now independent displays.
- Siri no longer takes over the entire screen when issuing commands. Great if you are making commands while trying to navigate!
- Siri now works with 3rd party music and navigation apps.
- Settings app just for CarPlay. I have not messed with this yet but it provides users the ability to manage Do Not Disturb While Driving options.
- Light mode and dark mode. Not much more to be said here...
- The update gives Acura the ability to utilize the second screen for CarPlay in future firmware updates. No word if Acura will ever do this. I think we all know they should fix many other things first.
- Apple Maps has improved tremendously and is closer in detail to Google Maps. This is present on the phone and CarPlay.
- Apple Music has been redesigned.
- Overall, CarPlay has a more attractive look. I'm very happy with it so far. If my opinions change over time, I'll make sure to leave an update!
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