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Adv Steering Wheel in Tech Package

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Hi all!

I like the thickness of the steering wheel on the adv model (reminds me of the TL SH-AWD wheel). It seems like the steering wheel grip will fit the tech model just fine, but can anyone confirm this? Planning to swap out the stock wheel for the thicker one in the adv model if possible.

Thanks!

Fluctuations in Coolant temperature

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My coolant temp fluctuates up and down. What is the cause? Someone help

Navi to Non-Navi conversion

New user intro

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Hi all,

I have an 06 TL and 15 RDX, I've been enjoying both my Acuras for several years with very few issues. However, I've had bad luck with driver side half-shafts. The one on my TL just snapped out of the blue and the one on my RDX is leaking grease from the inside boot, but no cracks on the rubber. Most likely getting it replaced soon.

Rear seat remote latch

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Anyone have the cable in one of their rear seat remote recline latches break yet?
Mine did today. I hardly ever used it and when I did, I would make it a point to pull the lever sooooooo slowly due to the fact that it feels so fragile. Today when I went to use it, it just snapped.
Add it to the list of issues on the biggest POS vehicle I have ever owned! This lease can't end soon enough!!

2015 TLX SH-AWD Real time traffic stopped working - no signal

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I noticed this few days ago. Still waiting to hear from Acura. It's Canadian vehicle and driven in Ontario. I am wondering if I am the only one with this problem. I am paying standard subscription and it shows active, but no signal.

How to reset gear shift points

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I do not like upshift and downshifts of my 2008 RL. Is there a way to reset these so that it can learn my driving style?

1,000 mile round trip mountain family vacation

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Just got back from the Smokey Mountains with my wife and 2 kids (still in car seats).

Here’s my thoughts...
1) Cargo: We needed the roof carrier, as we tend to have 3 big bags, a small cooler, and a couple book bags. No way possible to fit it all into the measly 30 sq feet, as I need about 50 minimum
2) MPG: 24-25 rolling around 70-75 with a lot of rain, so very happy with that. 20 in the mountains.
3) Comfort: No annoying wind noise, though the tires leave much to be desired. They make a little, not annoying, but more than more quality tires I’m used to. Seats didn’t get painful at all.
4) Inside space: Sufficient, and my kids are both in car seats who lug around toy bags, pillows, and we have iPads mounted on the headrests. All worked great.
5) Handling: Excellent in the mountain curves, even in rain, and paddle downshifting was easy.

Overall, the only complaint I have is the cargo space as even with the 14 or 16 sq foot topper we were packed to the brim, which wasn’t the case with my previous MDX, obviously being bigger. I just didn’t realize it was “that” much bigger. Next time I may take a hitch cargo carrier as well.

TL 3G aftermarket parts-suspension

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Hi:

I am thinking that I may have to address the front suspension on my 04 TL with 285K miles, to address a vibration issue. I know I may also need to address engine mounts, despite a local Honda\Acura shop saying they were ok (visual inspection only)

I see a kit from a large online outfit, that uses Moog parts-anyone have experience with this brand? The kit includes lower control arms, ball joints, etc. I figure while I am in there it would be best to replace everything.

Any other sources\brands to consider? I am not looking to alter\lower, etc., just get a vibration free ride at highway speeds.

Thanks

Valve adjustment

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Has anyone on here ever had there valves adjusted on there 4th gen?

i got a 2012 with a 3.5 at 210k miles and it’s had a general low sound tick from upper end for about 30k miles. Generally just doesn’t sound as smooth as I would expect. Seems like the older J series like the 3.5 in the 04-06 MDX generally always seems smooth. My bud has one with 312k miles and never had them adjusted but his sounds very smooth all though the rpm range

I’m just worried about taking it to a shop and then not doing the work. I spoke to one shop that said it’s not really usual for them to need adjusting and that’s what worried me

All Kinds Of Repair Fun

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Dropped the car off because it needed the rear brakes replaced. While they were out test driving it, the right-side CV shaft snapped. I'd replaced the left in December 2017 and at the time they told me I should think about doing the other one at some point, but never did.

Then when they were test driving it again, it wouldn't come out of 1st gear. Turns out the shift cable broke.

Glad it happened while they had it and not me, as it saved me a tow. They also offered to cover half the parts and labor. Gotta love quality family-owned shops.

FS: 2010 TL SH-AWD 6spd Mayan Bronze Metallic / Umber

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This is something I literally thought I may never do but I've decided it is what makes the most sense.

When Acura re-designed the TL for this generation, I fell in love. They paraded around a Mayan Bronze over Umber 6spd car to all of the shows and it seemed to me to be the perfect daily driver. I told myself that if I were ever in a position to buy one, I would do it. About 5 years ago I was tired of driving my lowered Cooper S convertible all year long in Cleveland. I realized that these cars were in my price range so I started looking for a super clean Mayan Bronze, Umber 6spd car... I eventually found this one in Indianapolis. It was the original owner (I'm 99% sure, I'll detail why later), with a complete service history and it was listed with about 67k miles. We settled on a price. A friend and I had one of the best mini roadtrips to get the car, stopping in Columbus for a night. When we got to Indy, slightly hungover, the car was better than I could have imagined.

Cut to the chase, Andrew, why are you selling it? Probably 6 months into my ownership I noticed that it was a little low on oil. High within the range, but low. I researched the problem and saw that a number of the J37s in these cars were replaced early, early on in their lives due excessive to oil consumption. I figured since this was such a slow burn rate, my car wasn't affected. I continued to keep an eye on it, religiously filling it when it was low. This past fall, I decided that I had had enough and the consumption had gotten to a ridiculous level. I started an oil consumption test with local Acura Dealer A. I really didn't like the vibe I got from the service guy there so on my way home I called Acura Dealer B to see if I could finish an already started test with them. They said yes. Great. 1,400 miles later I return to that dealer, they check the consumption and it's definitely excessive. They say, however, that I'll need to start a new test with them to have it all at one place. Ugh. They send me on my way and I drive to Detroit for the weekend. On the way back from Detroit I start noticing a tick from the valvetrain. I park in my garage that night and then call Acura in the morning. While on the phone with Acura, I check my oil to see that the dealer never refilled the oil. It was still in the "acceptable" range but not at a level that I ever would have driven 5 hours on the highway. To be fair, I don't think that the dealer leaving the oil low is 100% what caused this noise but I do contend that the noise is low-oil related and having it low during that trip highlighted the issue causing me to be able to hear it. The valvetrain in these engines, from the ones I've heard always seem to make some noise but this is now more than some.

Once I got the good news that Acura was going to replace the pistons and rings, I asked that the valvetrain be looked into to determine the noise. Acura will only consider covering a repair related to oil-consumption if there is a diagnosis done by an Acura dealer. Fair. And since the labor to remove the heads would already be done, it seemed to make perfect sense that they could check while they were in there. All parties agreed.

About 4 days into the dealer having my car, I get a call from the service manager. He tells me, good news, it just needs a valve adjustment. It'll be X cost. I say, awesome, I really appreciate you checking into it, go ahead and do the adjustment. 3(ish) days later I go to pick up my car. The service manager tells me everything is great so I happily grab my keys and go to my car. I leave the door open while I start it to hear a tick-free start. What happens? It's ticking. What else happens? The low-oil light comes on. I immediately shut the engine off and walk back to give them the news. They check and there is oil in the car. "The low-oil pressure switch must have gone bad". It was not bad before taking it in. I ask him what (if any) damage they found in the heads. Essentially, they didn't look telling me it would have been too expensive and taken too much time. So they found that the valves needed adjustment and just figured that was the issue. Not usually how a mechanic tackles a job, I'd say.

Problem is, Acura stands by what was done and says they can't force a dealership to spend time looking into this for me. The dealer has agreed to cover the labor for taking the heads off but I would be responsible for any time spent looking into the actual problem. That time will easily cost $1,200 and that wouldn't include the cost to repair what's wrong if Acura decides it's not their problem. Which definitely seems to be the case. I can't get myself onboard with the potential of spending thousands of dollars to find an issue that I have a high conviction I didn't cause and have to pay to fix it in the end.

Although I love this car, it leaves a bad taste in my mouth now every time I look at it.

So. The car runs and drives perfectly well and has no symptoms other than a rather noisy valvetrain. Because I rely on this vehicle for work and I have too many other projects I don't have time to tear into it, find and fix the issue myself. It kills me but I can't hit the road with no concern, so I have to cut ties.

I know this has been wordy, but I want to be 100% upfront and give potential buyers the full background.

The Good:
  1. Mayan Bronze over Umber - perfection
  2. 6spd manual
  3. SH-AWD
  4. 114k miles
  5. Pistons and rings replaced under extended warranty
    1. This was about 500 miles ago and it does not seem to be burning any more
  6. Valve adjustment 500 miles ago
  7. Timing belt done
  8. Service history from new
    1. It has been meticulously maintained by both me and the previous owner
  9. Technology package
  10. Awesome sound system
  11. Extremely comfortable seats
  12. Very nicely done DARK tint
  13. I 100% feel that this is the perfect all-around car. I've even auto-xed it once and it was a blast.
The Bad and Not-so-good:
  1. The aforementioned ticking. For all I know, the next owner could dig into this and it becomes a non-issue, leaving me the real loser. Since I don't know what the problem is, I've just assumed it's bad.
  2. Bumps and bruises
    1. The first owner had a TV stolen from his garage and they dropped it on his trunk. Scratches and some little dents
    2. The first owner was backed into and the FL fender was painted
      1. I have the paperwork for this
    3. I was run into while driving in the left lane by a car pulling out of a stopped right-hand lane
      1. The FL fender, and bother driver-side doors were painted
    4. I was hit last fall backing out of a parking spot by lady who was flying and I never saw
      1. Technically this was my fault as I was the one backing out but she obviously felt at fault because she scrambled to get insurance...which was obviously rejected
        1. I have not had this repaired yet because I was waiting for spring but will certainly do that if the buyer wants. It'll cost me my $500 deductible.
    5. Various scratches that a daily-driven car will get
      1. Pictured these as best I could
    6. The paint could generally use a good detail. Typically at this point in the year I would have done this already but can't get myself to do it... I would be HAPPY to pay for a full detailing should that help this car go to a great new owner.
  3. Driver's seat bolster
    1. This is a common area of failure on these cars. I've seen a number of TLs with the vinyl (it's either vinyl or a MUCH thinner leather) completely missing. I've been able to keep the vinyl in-place by gluing from behind. Hard to explain but there is no gluey or hard texture. This same failure is in it's beginning stages on the passenger seat as well as the rear headrests.
  4. Some very minor interior scratches
  5. The low-oil light comes on every time you start the car now. The oil is not low. I'll get this replaced.
  6. It could use front brakes. I have the parts and will get this done before selling.
  7. I planned to put new tires on it before winter.
I've got two sets of floor mats as well as the rubber trunk mat, a perfect-fit rear seat cover that has been on the car for almost all of my ownership and, as mentioned, the service history since it's first oil change. This is why I'm fairly confident in my claim that the guy I bought it from was the original owner - his name is on the paperwork.

There really isn't enough good that I can say about this car which, considering the circumstances, seems strange. I think without the valvetrain noise, this would be an $10,000-12,000 car all day especially because of the color combination and manual trans. I'm asking $7,500. This is the top end of the KBB Trade-In range in "Good" condition. There is a price at which I'll just keep it, stick it in a storage unit somewhere and come back to it once I have time but don't tell my wife...

CLOSED PER THe MARKETPLACE RULES

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Edit by Administrator Ron A:

This thread/post has been edited and closed since it was posted in the wrong forum, and also because you are not eligible to post a thread in the Marketplace yet.

Members may not post new threads for sale, trade, or Want To Buy, in the Marketplace until they have been registered for 15 days and have made 5 constructive posts, except for cars which is 60 days and 30 posts.

They can post in Marketplace threads if they are responding about something being sold that they might want, but they may not post their Want To Buy request in other members threads.

If you are not eligible to post a thread in the Marketplace, you will just have to wait.

I regret having to say this under these circumstances, but welcome to the forum.

@Idk.ilx

Radio/CD Player Control Panel Navigation Screen upgrade

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I’m considering to buy a used navigation controls panel receiver (radio-cd player with touch screen ) for my acura ilx 2017 base edition and upgrade my basic radio . Any chance that the the navigation console use the same plugins that the basic one? Any advice suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciate it

Acura ilx 2016 2017 2018 Control panel touch screen navigation radio CD player receiver

Acura ilx 2016 2017 2018 radio cd player receiver control panel (base model)
eatly appreciate it

Custom headlights, overlooked something.

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So I bought a set of custom housings from a guy. They're OEM but painted, etc. Anyway, I went to install everything this weekend and found out that the bottom/base housing of the set I bought doesn't fit my take off ballasts. I have an 05 and I'm guessing the set I'm putting in came off an 06. The molding for the ballasts is smaller and will not fit mine. At least the drivers side is, I did not bother taking off the passenger at that point.

So I'm guessing that the 06 model cars came with different ballasts than the 05. That being said, what else will I need to replace along with the ballasts? Igniters? Different main bulbs? Anything in the wiring harness?

Acura 2016 ILX

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Hi I'm Maria, first time Acura owner.

Oil Seepage from Engine

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Hey what's up guys. I was replacing my broken catalytic converter this past weekend and noticed some oil seepage coming from the engine. Is this something I should be worried about?




Bonus pics of my broken cat

2014 Acura RDX Front Windshield Haze/Scale

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Gentlemen,

Need some help with this one. I have tried CLR, Bartender's Friend Paste, Windex, Spray 9, Denatured Alcohol, etc. Still, this haze takes over my windshield when my wipers operate. I have also attached a picture with my defroster turned on and you can see this scale pattern forming, which is the exact pattern that is on my windshield. Vehicle is a 2014 RDX and this is my 2nd windshield (first one took a nasty rock). The windshield was perfect when I got it less than a year ago but after this winter this haze is back with a vengeance. My OEM windshield did the exact same thing with the hazing/scaling. Any suggestions on what is causing this and how to remove it. I should tell you that my wife a 2017 CRV whose windshield is perfect and she parks in the same driveway.




What Would You Do?

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Hello,




I've got a 2005 TL, AT that I've owned since early 2006 when it was a car left over from the 2005 sales. It had 700 miles when I bought it. Fast forward to now, it just crossed 200,000 miles. I haven't traded it because it hasn't died yet. I ended up buying a third just for fun 2016 BMW 6 series convertible because the Acura keeps being great at road trips and winter here in the midwest.




I want to keep using it for long distance road trips, so my question is:




1. Would you drive it with confidence on long distance trips?

2. Would you proactively replace any components to ensure longevity or prevent a possible breakdown?




The list of things I have already replaced are:

Alternator around 160K

Starter around 150K

Third/Fourth Pressure Switches at 190K (because it started having delayed downshifting)

Pedal Position Sensor around 140K

Headlights around 140K

Dash lights to LED conversion around 140K

Power Steering Pump at 195K

Bluetooth Module at 160K

A few batteries, all oil changes and of course tires over the course of ownership.

Spark Plugs, Water Pump and Timing Belt Service at 105K


Motor Mounts some at 140K and some at 180K




Lots still original most notable: Engine, Tranny, Shocks, Struts and ball joints.

Surprising at this point (knock on wood): No cracked dash, no cracked seats.




Outside Temp gauge stuck

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Anyone having there outside temp gauge get stuck for awhile, mine usually gets stuck at like 71 for the first 5-15 minutes of driving then it will start to adjust slowly, not sure if there is something wrong or it’s just programmed weird
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