I bought an Acura TL 2005 with 165,000 miles. Ive learned the car was maintained but it needs new control arms. Has anyone ever made their car last until 200000 or over? Also I was told not to flush the teams because it could leave things worse. Does that mean to just replace the filter and add new fluid. I wanna make this car last because I really love it and I cant afford a newer one.
First and foremost, thank you AcuraZine! I learned an ass load. Long time reader and first time poster.
I could use some help with a transmission issue if you don't mind.
2006 Acura TL AT.
Symptoms:
None. No gear slipping, no down shifting, literally nothing previously. Then, I was doing about 60 and it down shifted and went into neutral.
And, stayed there. Nothing but Park. No noises, no grinding. Engines running fine. No weird noises. Just no drive or reverse in automatic or manual.
Things done:
Replaced the transmission filter. It was F'n mangled. It basically came out in chunks. I've only owned the car for a year so didn't see that coming.
Cleaned the top transmission solenoid tubes but not much debris.
Cleaned the front shift solenoid (had high hopes for that) but again, not much.
I'm basically working my way backwards.
There has to be chunks of the tranny filter somewhere, cause it was toast.
I'm at a standstill (literally lol).
Oil pressure switch? It just doesn't strike me as a transmission drop.
Any help, or next thing to check would be greatly appreciated. I'm already behind on rent and can't afford 2k on a rebuild.
Hey guys I have a 04 6 speed TL, I need some new motor mounts and I need some help finding some good ones. almost everywhere I look takes me back to OEM, but there has to be better ones than the OEM?
Hey guy I'm a bit confused because everytime I Google for the location it just shows me a bunch of MDX DIY videos. Does anyone know the exact location this crankshaft sensor goes. I'll post a pic with it just in case I may have the wrong part.
Im looking to refresh my brushes and clean/grease all the internals to solve my weak starting, i searched the forums and came across some older threads rebuilding non type S starters using accord (?) Brushes and solenoid. If any of you fine folks have a lead on where to find and buy all the right parts so i can rebuild this myself, that would be $*%&^$ awesome and I will try and make a diy video of the procedure.
Hey folks,
New to the forum here. I picked up a 2001 Acura CL Type S for my wife's older boy this week. It has a bunch of options and was in fairly good shape so I'm hoping it was a good deal.
Just need to troubleshoot the SRS indicator light, which I'm hoping to get some help with in the forums.
It's a beautiful morning in Manitoba already. Hope everyone has a great day.
Hi all,
I have a 15 MDX AWD/Tech, so since last time I hit a pothole(big and deep) in highway at around 55mph, I replaced the rim b/c it was bend, and I replaced all 4 struts, both front start leaking, and both rear do not retract after compress, so I bought oem parts online and have them replaced at the store, also, I replaced both rear bar link, the car felt so more stable while making turn, but steering wheel also off center a little after replacement, after all these, I did the wheel balancing, a 4 wheel alignment.
Here is the problem after all, on highway, I felt my steering wheel start shaking when making slight turning at 40-60 mph, going straight seems fine, but sometimes, it also shakes, I tried to convince myself this was due to the highway road surface, but this week, I sent my car in the dealership to address a TBS, and they are missing part so they gave me a loaner, 19 RDX, when driving back home, I didn't notice any shaking on the steering wheel at all, so question, what else did the car break by the pothole damage? Is it possible they break something while replacing strut? I spoke to the body shop yesterday, and the guy said its because of the tire balancing, they will do it again, I will bring my car in after I got it back from the dealer.
Last but not least, STUPID POTHOLE.
I just purchased a 2007 RDX for my wife and am having issues with the A/C can some one please tell me the process of asking a tech question and were to post??
Good morning folks,
I have an SRS light on a car that I just bought this week, and my OBD2 tester says that I had an issue with my passenger side air bag. I was hoping to disconnect the air bag and use a 2 ohm test resistor to mimic the bag and see if the error clears.
I was all ready to do, battery disconnected, glove box removed, and then encountered that there were 4 wires, not 2 going to what must be a dual stage airbag.
Does anybody know whether I need to use a resistor across both sets (2 red and 2 yellow) in order to test this properly? Or should I be going about this another way?
I understand the weight ratings and don't plan to go over it, but what's everyone's experience with Class I hitch strength?
I've always had big trucks with Class III hitches, and have always considered Class I hitches puny and for pulling nothing larger than a bike rack or motorcycle trailer.
My trailer is maybe 900 lbs, and while I have 2 Honda Rancher ATVs, I'll probably just be limited to pulling one at a time which is fine for where I go to stay under 1,500 lbs, but even that I feel like a Class I hitch is just going to snap off.
Has anyone ever had a Class I hitch break?
What about pulling the car out of a stuck shallow ditch on the side of the road in an emergency situation? Is it going to explode on me?
I'm tempted to just get the Draw-Tite Class III instead, but don't love the look of it.
Let me apologize for the vagueness of this post in advance. I am looking into an issue for a friend with a 2005 MDX. She has very little car knowledge. I will be looking at the car for her on Saturday and will provide more details if I can at that time.
On Monday as she was her vehicle on a highway (~70MPH), the car started to decelerate and all the dash lights began to flash. The car slowed to about 20MPH and she pulled over, shut the car off and waited a short while. She restarted the car and was able to get home, but didn't press the car over 40MPH. She brought the car to the shop that had recently done an oil change on it and had also recommended a brake job. They looked at the car and said she needed a new throttle body (haven't seen their write-up yet). She then brought it back a day later and asked them to scan for any codes. They didn't do that and suggested that perhaps this was related to different sized tires being on the vehicle (I haven't seen what the tire sizes are). They also suggested that perhaps she should just move forward with doing the brakes and tires and see if the problem returns. I also asked her to have an auto parts store check for codes and they said there were none.
Has anyone seen a similar problem? Has anyone had an issue due to differing tire sizes?
Again, I'll post more info when I see the car on Saturday, but if anyone has any experience with similar issues, I'd like to hear your resolutions. Thanks.
So I've gone through 4 sets of front rotors on this car due to pulsating/shuddering brakes. Five if you count the ones on it when I bought it. That's over the course of about 150K miles. And many of those I kept on for a long time after they began pulsating. Some started pulsing as early as 5K miles. I'm not sure if it's a problem specific to my car or if it's intrinsic to the 4G TL. I'm not a newb when it comes to brakes. I've replaced pads and rotors on several vehicles with no problems whatsoever. My wifes '09 pilot has about 60K on her rotors and pads that I swapped out 4 years ago and they're still smooth as butter.
I've done everything to try to stop it but haven't had much luck:
- Cleaned the rust/debris off the hubs before installing the rotor
- Meticulously followed the bedding procedure (specific to the rotor manufacturer)
- Used a new set of pads for each new set of rotors
- Measured the run-out of my hubs to make sure they were true.
- Made sure all suspension components and wheel bearings are good.
- Made sure the calipers are in good shape - clean, no rust, guide pins were lubed up and freely moving, boots intact, etc.
- Thoroughly cleaned rotors prior to install - first with soap and water to remove the oil usually applied by the manufacturer to prevent rust followed by brake cleaner after install.
- Used anti-seize and brake grease where needed on all contacts of the brake pads.
Also, every set of rotors and pads have been a different brand. Centric (cryo-treated), Stop-Tech, Raybestos, Duralast (autozone) and Wagner. Still - no luck. :cuss:
Having researched ad-nauseum online, a common consensus among brake experts is that rotors don't generally "warp". They might warp if they're super hot, then cooled very quickly. Such as braking for a long time then running through a deep puddle. However, in general, most pulsating brakes are a result of uneven brake pad material deposited on the rotor. I've always been skeptical of this since I'm unable to visually see any sort of uneven buildup on the rotor surface and I can measure run-out on bad rotors with a dial gauge (whereas they were fine when I installed them). New rotors should have a runout of around 0.002" at most. I've measured runout as high as 0.009" on "bad" rotors that were pulsating. This led me to believe that the rotor was warped. Especially when examining the area where the excessive runout was present and seeing that the surface didn't look any different than the rest of the rotor.
In browsing on the topic, I came across a BMW forum where M3 owners were having similar problems. It seems that it's chronic for them as well. Even worse, their rotors are around $200-$300 EACH :shocked:. You can get decent rotors for the TL for as low as $40 each. So needless to say, they wanted to figure out a way to prevent or fix the problem. One method to try to remove uneven pad buildup is to repeat the bedding procedure. But that seems to have mixed results. However, one poster on that forum found that if he repeated the bedding procedure with a set of metallic pads (semi-metallic racing pads in this case) that it ground all the old ceramic pad material off the rotor resulting in a relatively smooth surface. After that, he'd replace those with the previous ceramic pads and the pulsating was gone!
The pads he used were Hawk Blue racing pads which is a semi-metallic pad specifically designed for racing. Semi-metallic typically burn up rotors quicker but have better heat dispersal and more bite. For run of the mill cars, ceramic is most popular since it creates less dust, is quieter, easier on the rotors and lasts longer. But in this case, the whole point was to grind down the rotors to remove the ceramic pad material build up so semi-metallic race pads are perfect :thumbsup:
I was unable to find racing pads for the 4G TL. And frankly, I'm not sure I'd be willing to pay the price. They can be well above the $100 mark. So I decided to go the cheap route. I purchased a pair of semi-metallic pads from Autozone then did the bed in procedure. Boom! Pulsing was gone.
Time will tell if the fix is long term. I left the semi-metallic pads on for now but will probably swap the Akebono ceramics back on after a few more hundred miles - just to make sure the old material is fully removed. I'll follow up later to post results.
Hi all. I've been reading these forums for years, but never had a topic to post until now. I have a 2015 TLX V6 tech. I've read all the post about the TLX transmission and I am still not getting anywhere with getting my transmission fixed. I've been to the dealership 4 times. In that time they have done the PCM, Idle relearn, software update, and something called a "hard relearn". There has been no change in my transmission shift quality. On the last visit they sent in snapshots of the transmission and the team in California says the car is "operating as designed" I finally got ahold of someone at Acura customer care and she was not very polite stating that there is no fix that can be done since the snapshots came back as normal. I told her I have driven with my service advisor and technician who both feel the rough shifts. I have also driven 2 other V6 TLX from the same dealer's lot that did not behave like mine. I understand that your computer shows the car may be fine, but you will never understand unless you drive this car. Her last words were, "I'll see if we can send out a technician to drive you car." Any tips on moving forward. Other than the shifts I enjoy the car, but I cannot drive this car for another 5 years with these abrupt shifts.
Hello I am trying to replace my catalytic converters I got the front one one but I am looking for anyone who can tell me how to get the rear out. I have all the bolts out I just can't fit the old part out from behind the engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My '05's accessory power socket door has been open for years, and I'm finally getting around to it. Ordered part 77297-SJA-003, but it's not obvious to me how to go about actually installing the little thing. Saw the threads in the "Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics, and Navigation" Su-Forum, but thought my question would get more peeks here. I'm aware of the TSB, but I can't get any of those websites to reveal the PDF without $$.
Can anyone point me in the right direction to make this repair? Will it become obvious if I remove the whole shifter area cover?
Anyone know how to install this little booger? (The one on the right.)
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Can anyone point me in the right direction to make this repair? Will it become obvious if I remove the whole shifter area cover?
Im running on coil overs from tein TEIN Flex Z Coilovers Honda Accord & Acura TL (2003-2007) VSA80-CUSS3, at stock lowering height, Im trying to get these rims Koenig ampliform. I have a 2005 Acura TL 6sp with brembo brakes. I want a flush fitment but Ill probaly have to stretch the tire a little bit. I was thinking of running 18x9 +35, or a 18x9.5 +25. Is there a better figment with these rims since theyre already concave? I wanna keep the concave as much as possible but still have to clear the brakes. What would be the best rum size, width and offset?
So we just took an 06 A-Spec in on trade here at the Honda dealer I work for, I'm tempted to put my 05 base TL up for sale at a lower price to sag this A-spec. The car is on the whole sale lot due to mileage and I know they didn't give much for it on trade in. I checked out the outside and its not bad for the age, interior is pretty decent could use a good cleaning. It is a 6 speed manual which I like because of the Brembo's, though I prefer my auto for being lazy during the commute lol. I haven't driven it or racked it yet but I know it needs a Nav drive or disc, error message on start up. The mileage though is 190,8xx, so the higher mileage kinda scares me bc I don't know the history of the car. My 05 TL I know I'm the second owner, I've got a binder of maintenance records as well with mine, also I'm only at 162,2xx. My TL had a reman transmission installed july 2018, so I know thats good. Just don't know if its worth moving to the 06 A-spec for just cosmetics, and minor upgrades. If it was an 07-08 I'd be more willing to make the jump so I could have the back up camera, better nav and other upgrades.
I had these when I bought some winter tires from a local classifieds. Discount tire checked them out and said they are good. I just had to buy the kit for them.
I have not had this issue, but prepping for a cross country trip and not finding anything in the manual, but may be missing it...
If your RDX is broke down and clicking the neutral button is failing to put the transmission in neutral, is there a manual workaround if you need to be towed?
Vehicles have had that in the past, but I know were getting more dependent on pretending electronics never fail, so maybe manufacturers dont bother anymore?
