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FS: Winter Tires and Wheels 17", Rims, TPMS, mounted balanced- good condition

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No longer have my Acura so these must go..asking $400
Four Bridgestone 235/65R17~ BLIZZAK WS80 104H - great traction in snow
Four 17X7.5 bolt pattern 5-114.3 offset ET40 Sport Edition Silver Rims

Will fit plenty of Acura and Honda models - check here if unsure https://www.wheel-size.com/pcd/5x114.3/

Acura TPMS sensor, mounted, balanced, plus lug nuts
Obtained from TireRack in 2015 and gently used for less than 20,000 miles. Plenty of tread left.
No curb rash, no vibration, or other issues
Let me know if you need additional pictures or information
Pick-up and cash only zip 43209

2020 RDX release date , color options

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So my latest checks suggest late June / early July shipments for 2020 RDX. Anyone hear anything earlier/later than this?

Also have heard more flexibility for Advanced exterior / leather seat colors.

Water/Methanol injection for k24?

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I am thinking of injecting a 50/50 mix since our engine is high compression and probably could benefit from it. Temps in Cali get high in the summer so it could help cool it down a bit. Has anyone done it already? Snow performance once sold a kit that used the MAF/MAP as the controller. I also would need a tune, Ktuner claims they support my ECU. Is anyone willing to offer any insight? I like my 2012 SwagOn wagon but it could use a little more oomph. That being said my friend who owns a stage 2 tuned twin turbo v6 BMW was impressed by the build quality of my wagon. I am not considering a forced induction build just yet but who knows in the future. It would definitely need an LSD at that point through.

Full-size spare fit?

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I already had to totally replace a tire less than a month after purchasing my ‘19 AWD (hit a huge rock, ripped sidewall, instantly deflated the whole tire in 5 seconds).
The AWD does NOT love the donut spare, it’s sluggish and you can hear it grind a bit on slow speed turns because of the size difference.

Does anyone know if a full-size spare will fit underneath? I’ll be traveling about 1000 miles round trip and the thought of the donut as my only backup I don’t love.

USB playlist corrupted

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Has anyone successfully used USB Audio by sticking in a USB stick containing mp3s with m3u playlists?

I have done this and after a couple of days, the list of playlists still appear but some of them have 0 songs in them. Each time I have wiped the USB stick and copied over the same songs and m3u playlists. Not all playlists show 0 songs but some of them do and each time I clear the USB stick and come back, after a few days, it's a different set of playlists that show 0 songs in them.

I can still play songs by searching through Folder list or asking for an artist or title. Could it be that the cache of playlists in the car is corrupted? Is there a way for force the car to reload the playlists? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Stock head unit question

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Supppperrrr uninteresting but I have a '97 TL 2.5 Prem radio in my '93 Vigor. (same radio harnesses, direct install) I installed it just to tie me over until I install the '14 Civic navi radio and get a JL 5 channel amp and some matching JL speakers and sub etc. $$$ I don't have yet exactly.

I'm having a problem with overall audio quality and loudness at and over half volume. Basically the first 1/4th of volume sounds great, even with bass and treble maxed out. But as I near the 1/2 mark or go over audio quality greatly diminishes and the imaging gets distorted. It sounds like the speakers are playing through a fan (you know that voice altering chopping effect when you talked into a spinning fan as a kid?) and I'm afraid of damaging my speakers. Even when turning the Bass and Treble to flat or all the way down there is still a lot uneven imaging going on and then of course it sounds super weak all around without any bass.

I have brand new JBL GX9638 6x9s (300w peak / 100w rms) and GX628 6.5's (180w peak / 60w rms). Are these underrated for the stock TL radio? I couldn't find the wattage/ output of the TL radio at all and just assumed it was around 30-50 watts per channel and the JBLs would be safe. Unless i am wrong I can't figure out why I am having this issue unless these head units are super powerful and stock TL's had some amazing speakers from factory that Acura never published or bragged about....

I even got another radio out of a 3.2 Prem TL from LKQ thinking it was a dying head unit amp but I had the same results.


Any tips?

TL: TL head unit low sound quality

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I posted this in the 1st gen TL thread but just saw this Audio section of AZ. Sorry for the double post.

So. Supppperrrr uninteresting but I have a '97 TL 2.5 Prem radio in my '93 Vigor GS. (same radio harnesses, direct install) I installed it just to tie me over until I install the '14 Civic navi radio and get a JL 5 channel amp and some matching JL speakers and sub etc. $$$ I don't have yet exactly.

I'm having a problem with overall audio quality and loudness at and over half volume. Basically the first 1/4th of volume sounds great, even with bass and treble maxed out. But as I near the 1/2 mark or go over audio quality greatly diminishes and the imaging gets distorted. It sounds like the speakers are playing through a fan (you know that voice altering chopping effect when you talked into a spinning fan as a kid?) and I'm afraid of damaging my speakers. Even when turning the Bass and Treble to flat or all the way down there is still a lot uneven imaging going on and then of course it sounds super weak all around without any bass.

I have brand new JBL GX9638 6x9s (300w peak / 100w rms) and GX628 6.5's (180w peak / 60w rms). Are these underrated for the stock TL radio? I couldn't find the wattage/ output of the TL radio at all and just assumed it was around 30-50 watts per channel and the JBLs would be safe. Unless i am wrong I can't figure out why I am having this issue unless these head units are super powerful and stock TL's had some amazing speakers from factory that Acura never published or bragged about....

I even got another radio out of a 3.2 Prem TL from LKQ thinking it was a dying head unit amp but I had the same results.


Any tips?

New owner of '08 NBP TL Type S

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Hi all, happy to join (re-join) the Acura family :) my first car in high school was a sweet '97 GBP Acura Integra LS, and now I'm finally returning to team Acura 11 years later.

Picked up a lovely 2008 Acura TL Type S with the 5AT, 108k miles and meticulously maintained (luckily the previous owner the 105k and some extra preventative maintenance). Only had her for a week now, but I've done the mid muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install, along with LED interior/exterior bulbs and planning to do matching HID headlight/LED fog light/LED DRL out front. Once Houston weather stabilizes, I'm looking forward to doing a deep detail, clay bar, and wax for the car.

Few questions for you guys-

1) Coming from a '11 Infiniti G37, of which the VQ37 had great results with 0W40 - wondering if the J35 would do well with Mobil 1 0W40 in the heat of Houston, or if its too thick. I've always noted Mobil 1's 0W40 as being akin to a thick 0W30 oil with better additive pack than the rest of Mobil 1 offerings. Figured I'd ask as I have a stockpile of 0W40 that would be nice to use :)

2) Have a valve cover gasket that's leaking - looking to replace that soon, are there any other items I should look in to replacing while in there? Also, if anyone has an idea of general cost of replacing the valve cover? I've gotten quotes of around $400-500 including parts and labor.

3) Motor mounts seem to be hanging in there, but I have done light research on the Innovative motor mounts available for our cars for a future replacement. As this is my daily driver, I want to keep the car pretty vibration free - would it be best to bite the bullet on OEMs, or perhaps run the Innovative front and side mounts, then only replace the rear with an OEM mount?

4) Struts seem to be fairly worn, will probably need replacing in the next few years. Any recommendations on good OEM replacements or perhaps an improved one for better ride?

5) Tires for the OEM TL Type S wheels - seems to be a split consensus on 245/45/17 or 255/40/17. I've historically ran only 245 wide tires on 8" wheels but figured I'd ask for any additional input on ride quality or wear difference? Leaning towards 245/45/17 currently for the slightly wider tread and less stretch on the tires.

6) Paint chips out front are pretty plentiful - anyone recommend OEM touch-up paint or any alternatives? I've heard great things about Dr. Colorchip

7) I've got a strange whooshing noise that comes from my AC, and the middle passenger vent seems to not really let much air out. Anyone have any similar symptoms? Trying to figure it out to see if I can get rid of that noise.

8) I get the light on for tighten fuel cap message randomly, usually on bumpy roads. Seems to be a very common problem, but has anyone established a reliable fix?

Lot of questions, but thus far really enjoying the car. Future plans - adding an RV6 V3 Long Tube J-Pipe and possibly Magnaflow 11365 mufflers to give it more of an aggressive tone. Hopefully there's not too much drone on that set up :)





Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator install

Mid-muffler delete + Dynomax 24235 resonator

Moving to Korea with 2019 RDX, need maintenance info

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I'm moving to South Korea with my RDX. I'll be stationed at osan. I'm looking at maintenance parts. Will these oil and oil filters be ok considering I can ship via Amazon? I'll be there for 3 years starting this July and I just bought the car last month. So far I have little over 1000 miles on it.

1. Royal purple 0W-20 synthetic oil
2. K&N HP-1010 Performance Wrench-Off Oil Filter.

1999 TL-P glamour shot

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Finally remembered that I wanted to show off my baby.
This shot was taken after I took her on the Tail Of The Dragon last summer.



Please ignore the dents on the door haha. Parking here in Atlanta ain't friendly!

Just installed the RV6 PCD.

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I just installed my PCD this past weekend and there is some rasp going on once I hit 3200 rpm so I'm looking to see what I can do to get rid of the rasp.

My current exhaust setup is RV6 PCD, RV6 J-Pipe and XLR8 Resonated exhaust single tips. I've read around the forums that the MagnaFlow 12640 would get rid of the rasp but would I cut off the XLR8 resonator and replace it with that or would I cut off the piping towards the end near the mufflers to install the 12640?

The Magnaflow 12640 is 6" by 27" long so I'm just trying to figure out how I can fit the 6" x 27" muffler onto the XLR8 exhaust.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/12640/10002/-1

Here's some generic pictures of the XLR8 Resonated exhaust that I have as a reference of where to cut the piping.

2005 TL p0957

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So I have just purchased a 2005 Acura TL with navigation that I got an excellent deal on i took I took the dash apart to get the radio code and when I put it back together I got the p0957 code anyone know the part # to fix I want to replace it brand new I searched the threads and can’t find what part or part number is needed

Audio system and navigation system displays No HDD

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when I turn on my 2013 Acura ILX Tech my audio system displays No Hdd while the navigation screen displays cannot access Hdd

Transmission help

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We just got a ‘04 MDX as part of a trade. It won’t shift correctly. I start it, it will go into drive, after a few minutes it goes out of gear. I have to turn it off wait a minute then I start it and immediately have to put in gear and it will drive again, but it will continue to go out of gear and have to repeat the same process. Suggestions please. When I first got it, it wouldn’t go into gear at all, messed around with it, i then realized that the trans fluid was overfilled, drained it to normal levels that’s when I was able to get it to shift into gear as was mentioned. The shifter moves but the transmission isn’t shifting gears.

P2R power rev racing intake plenum set TL or CL type S

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Looking for the p2r intake plenum side runners that bolt up to the side of the factory stock intake plenum. New or used. For the Acura TL or CL type S .

2010TSX electric power steering stuck.

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The power steering won't move. It feels like it's locked. The steering was feeling very tight when making turns before this happened. There's no light on the dashboard indicating power steering failure. Anyone know the answer to this problem ?

2020 Acura RDX Maintenance Journal

FS: 05-08 RL Headlight Parts

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05-08 RL internal parts for sale, no projectors. Driver side high beam reflector chrome is water damaged. Great for retrofitting your headlights and painting. $100 shipped to con us

2020 Acura RDX Owner's Guide

A/C unit doesn't work.. blower can't be turned off

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I've done a thread search, and didn't see anyone with this specific issue.

I changed out the dash and, upon reinstall, the A/C unit doesn't turn on, although the fan blower blows constantly (typically cycling from low heat to high heat, and then back again). I also installed LED lights on the dash and the climate control unit.

Fuses inside cabin and under hood are fine (and have swapped them).

Stereo works fine.

Since the stereo isn't affected by the reinstall, could I surmise it was the LED lights that are causing the issues? (I'm swapping them out tomorrow). I didn't think this was possible. If so, would that mean too much or too little current would then go through my climate control? I.e., is it just underpowered or fried?

If it's not the LED lights, would a broken wire inside the connectors cause this kind of malfunction? I didn't see any lose wires or wires being wrongly grounded (but that could be still the case). If the blower functions, does that mean the unit is receiving power? Do you recommend replacing the unit just in case to rule that out?
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