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2020 RDX - PMC Edition


VSA activation indicator stays on with VSA DTC indicator lighting up at 30 mph

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Hey everyone! This is my first post but I’ve been using the knowledge imparted by so many threads for many years—so thanks for all you do!

I have a 2002 Acura TL-S at ~ 233000 miles. She still runs really well. I recently replaced the left rear wheel speed sensor and repaired the broken wire from the female connector. I successfully cleared the ABS codes but the VSA activation indicator stays lit and after I drive at a speed of around 30 mph the VSA DTC indicator comes on.

I’m fortunate enough to have a work buddy who has a high end scan tool. It revealed the code 84 (neutral position). I attempted the memorization procedure outlined in the tech manual. The manual reads that after successfully completing the procedure the VSA activation indicator will blink twice after two seconds and either go out or come back on depending on the existence of any other codes.

However, every time I’ve attempted this procedure the VSA activation indicator doesn’t blink and just remains on—so I’m unsure if I’m performing it correctly. That issue aside, the manual also describes a DTC troubleshooting procedure for code 84. The procedure mentions inspecting/testing the lateral acceleration and yaw rate sensors. Problem is, the diagram showing the VSA component locations doesn’t clearly show where either of these sensors are located (looks like somewhere under the dashboard, perhaps). Neither of the illustrations in the replacement instructions provide much help, either. I even looked through block diagrams on the online Acura store for a bit with no luck.

After that long-winded explanation, my questions are:

Is there a trick I’m missing about the neutral position memorization procedure?

Where in the name of Zeus’s butthole are the yaw rate and lateral acceleration sensors on this car?

Any insights would be much appreciated and thanks in advance!

AC issues

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Today 4/18/19 i was adding refrigerant to my 04 TL. As i placed the nozzle on the low port, green fluid shot out. What is wrong with this situation? Need help

Alarm randomly started going off

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So had a weird problem tonight, I was sitting in our bedroom and we have a parking garage below our apartment, and my car is about 40 ft away from our apartment below us. Next then we know we hear this super loud car alarm going off and we are like wtf that’s annoying. After about 2 minutes we were like hmmm that sounds awfully like my horn, loud as hell. So I walked over to the closest corner of our apartment to where my car is below and hit the lock button and it immediately ended. Went down to the car and nothing looks out of the ordinary, no one hit it, windows and doors all shut. It’s a locked parking garage that needs badge access, and it appears it just went off on its own. Anyone else have this happen? We also came back to our apartment and I turned the alarm on to make sure it was actually mine it it sounded exactly the same, so it was my car alarm going off. Hopefully not a bad hood or trunk switch 😫

2002 typeS Bad tranny. AV6 or rebuild?

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Hey everyone,
Just bought myself a 2002 Acura TL TypeS for $500 with a bad/slipping tranny. Car has 150k on the odometer and everything looks fresh. I know everyone would recommend to find a good AV6 tranny and just bolt it in, but would like to get more info on which is the absolute best option. Also here is a whinnying noise coming from the tranny area. Would that noise be due to slipping tranny? Thx guys, looking forward towards your opinions.

PS currently own 1999 TL base with 240k and a bunch of mods. Will be swapping everything towards the new buy but after i deal with the tranny.

Trunk panels Question

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How do you get the plastic piece that covers the trunk latch and below off? That pillar shaped piece of plastic, look down at the latch when you open the trunk.

CSL + EXO Anyone?

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I have applied CSL + EXO one coat both .. was wondering if its ok to apply 2nd coat of EXO after month for better beading/hydrophobic layer?

2019 Acura RDX Painted Brake Calipers Project

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If you have a floor jack, four jack stands, a Dupli-Color BCP400 Red Brake Caliper Kit, and a free afternoon, you too can have painted brake calipers.











99-03 TL 01-03 CL XLR8 75a Mounts

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I have a set of xlr8 75a steel mounts for sale. Had them for awhile on my old 02 accord. Had them powdercoated and new gerzybear 75a inserts. The rear mount powdercoat has imperfections. Fits 99-03 tl 01-03 cl 98-02 accord. May need to shim the passenger side mount. $300 shipped to conus obo

02-03 TL D2S 5.0 Projector Retrofits

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I have a set if headlight projector retrofits that i built for sale. Asking $600 shipped to conus obo. I have 2 other sets of retrofits that i built and these are the ones i decided to sell to clear out some space. The back housings will ve sealed and the open hole near the 194 port will be covered with weatherproof aluminum tape (had to trim inside the housing to recess the projectors further back). Any questions feel free to message me. I will toss in a set of d2s 6500k bulbs or 4300k oem bulbs i have to look at what i have laying around in my parts.
Does not come with turnsignal bulbs

The headlights are brand new tyc housings with depo lenses and bezels
Morimoto d2s 5.0 projectors
Iris shrouds
Passive black demon eyes
Black housings with reflectors removed
Nhk d2s to amp connectors

Will 07-08 Type-S Waffle Wheels fit my '06?

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Recently failed inspection because of the spacers on my current aftermarket wheels because they wouldn't clear my Brembo's up front that come with the ASPEC. I'm looking into buying the Waffle Wheels from an 07-08 Type-S, and I'm wondering if they would fit my 06 ASPEC and comfortably clear the Brembos up front? Thanks!

New to the TL

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Hey everyone! So in my previous post I was talking about how I'm looking for a 3rd gen TL. Of course I would love the Type S but I cant really find one, granted I've only been looking for 2 weeks. I might settle for an 06 TL with navigation. It would be a 2nd car for me so I suppose I dont necessarily need the type s because I'd like to keep that garage kept and have no room, so I guess it does kinda work out but that type s is sweeeet lol anyways... Can anyone point me in a direction to buy the 07 08 tail lights or type s tails, at a good price. Plug and play would be great! Dont really want to splice wires. One review on Amazon scared me away, saying they had to do a few things in order for the lights to go in. Thanks for all the help!

Tidal vs. Spotify

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Does anyone use Tidal instead of Spotify? Specifically the premium version of the subscription where you can stream music @ FLAC quality?
Is it significantly better w/ the 3D ELS Sound System?

It's not 5.1 - but I figured FLAC is still better than HQ AAC.

FTP: Charlotte-Mecklenburg Police Department Edition

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Police: PUT THE GUN DOWN!
*suspect puts down gun*
*police officer shoots him twice*
Suspect last words: you told me!
*suspect dies*

97 3.0 auto trans failure

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This developed over 1 week's time: It started with not going into gear while in drive so I used the 3rd and 2nd gears (auto) this turned into no forward gears at all.
The car's story: This was owned by a little old lady that had put only 100,000 miles on it in 17 years. The next owner, a college girl, owned it for 18 months then my
buddy had it for 2 years, I have had it for 3 years with 175,000 on it now. I had changed out the trans fluid a few days before the trouble started.
I beleve the little old lady was faithful in having all the factory services done when it was required (the car is still excellent throughout).
I don't believe the trans fluid had been changed since 60K, that would be 115K since its last change. Maybe, when it was changed some junk broke loose and clogged
the filter and filters on the solenoids. It has a high pitch whine similar to the way the power steering pump sounds when it is low on fluid or fluid is not passing through it.
I have to check the solenoids for clogging.
The internal filter is the problem as the only way I see to change it is by separating the trans housing (IE, remove the trans). Am I correct in this? If so, then I might
as well rebuild it.

A/C Not Working

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Hi everyone,

I bought my new-to-me '09 RDX in November right before winter started, so wasn't able to test the A/C when inspecting. Turns out it blows hot air.

I read a few other threads that pointed to replacing the engine bay relay, so I did that today hoping it would solve it, but unfortunately no change.

When I push the A/C button, I can hear the clutch engage, but the air temp stays the same. Anything I can diagnose DIY, or should I just bring it in?

Quick fitment questions with +35 offset

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Ok so I have found a set of wheels that are 17x8 offset +35, I'm wanting to install them on my 05 TL base Auto. I'm stock height at the moment but will be lowering on tein S springs here soon. Will I be ok and not have any rubbing issues now or in the future when lowered

Hondata FlashPro for 2019 RDX

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Has anyone tried the Hondata Flash pro yet. Seems like a great performance upgrade that delivers 36 lb-ft more mid range torque and 28 more mid-range horsepower in Sport and Sport+ modes for $695 and appears to be warranty friendly.

https://www.hondata.com/flashpro?product_id=215 Check out the dyno numbers for stage 1 and stage 3

FS: 2003 Acura CL-S 6MT

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I've owned this car since May of 2005 and as much as I hate to do it, it's time to let it go. The car has been meticulously maintained, in overall in good shape (see below for good and bad), and has been super reliable. I don't get the time to work on it like I used to and don't have space for it and that is part of the reason for letting it go. I bought it as car to use for weekend commutes/road trips and in the last couple of years, I've used it as more of a daily driver. The car is all original, has never been modified, never been wrecked (other than the rear bumper being replaced and front bumper being replaced due to dings...all original permaVIN stickers still on the body panels). The pics should give a good idea of the condition of the car.

Here are the positives about the car:
  • Engine in great shape and still runs like it always has; top end rebuild at 140k due valve over-tightening during adjustment by dealer
  • Clutch was just replaced at 180k - to give you an idea of how the car was treated, this was the first clutch replacement for the car (I bought it with 13k on it in 2005)
  • Paint overall is in great shape other than a few minor blemishes and barely noticeable door dings...she is due for a claying and a good waxing, but overall good other then items mentioned below
  • Interior is in great shape other than normal wear on steering wheel leather, shift knob leather and some cracking/wear on the front vinyl section of the drivers seat where the back of your calf would hit
  • Everything on the car works...locks, windows, radio, CD player, A/C, sunroof, etc
  • Tires are Hankook Ventus V12's - rears are 80% tread
  • All original, adult owned, never modified
...and here are the things that aren't as positive
  • front tires are due to be replaced...should have done when I did back tires, but knew I was going to get rid of car and discount puts the new ones in the back
  • Front bumper has share of scratches and dings...if you want it perfect, it needs to be touched up/repainted
  • Couple of small rock chips in windshield...been there forever, smaller than dime and never have spread/grown
  • Rear bumper has some spider cracks where someone backed into it in my office garage (passenger rear corner)...can't notice from a distance and bumper panel itself is perfect
  • Dipstick has a slight leak...supposedly the o-ring at the base of dipstick at block is a known issue on these and the Accords...has never been bad enough for me to worry/get to it. Cheap part
  • SRS light is on...just came on 2 months ago...took seat out to clean out under seat (I dropped a couple of french fries and couldn't get them out...took seat out (had to disconnect airbag module) and light is on when went back...going to try and check/fix this when I have time to get under seat to check connector which is likely the cause
  • Worst thing is the 3rd gear synchro quit working in the last 5k miles...you can still shift into third if you match revs or you can double clutch like an old school manual and she goes into 3rd just fine. Sometimes, I just go from 2nd to 4th and no problems with that. All other gears/shifting is fine.

2011 civic pressure plate on j32 6spd??

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