Started with new 92 5-sp Legend for me, then 01 & (current) 10 MDX Techs, wifes 00 TL & (current) 15 8-sp TLX Tech and daughters & their husbands 90 & 97 5-so Intrgras, 03 TL, 07 RDX, 09 TSX, 09 MDX & 14 TL.
Now considering new 19 RDX Advance, but nervous about reported soft brake pedal and horror stories about cabin electronics (crashes, freezes, nav problems, phone connection, yadda yadda). Appreciate any feedback from new RDX owners.
Also - just looked at a Loaded ($75k list) 16 E350 Merc Wagon with only 13k miles, but new RDX Advance matched it feature for feature, w/ better seats & more room at same $. Benz was beautiful but numb and rear-facing 3rd row seat was a joke and eliminated any hidden storage in cargo bay.
Hello, this is my first post here so Id like to introduce myself, my name is Andrew, nice to meet you all.
Now I have a few questions... Im not currently a TL owner but would like to get a 2014 TL Advance SH-AWD with the 3.7 V6 soon.
1.) I know Acura has extended the warranty on their 3.7 equipped vehicles, how common is the oil consumption problem?
I currently have a 2010 Altima that I drive daily thats been nothing but transmission problems so Id like to steer clear of any future problems in my next vehicle. I also have a 2010 RDX AWD thats been highly reliable.
2.) I know in the AWD models of the TL, there was an issue with the propeller shaft/bearing... was the 2014 model updated with the higher quality bearing?
Hey guys. I have been hearing weird noises under my car. I thought it was the brakes or suspension at first because it squeaks when I hit bumps and makes a grinding/dragging sound.
Well today I heard a new noise and noticed that there was a piece of plastic hanging down under my car. I took it to pep boys and they said that the whole splash shield needs to be replaced and that they do not carry the part.
I looked online and Front Engine and Fender seem to be the main part I can find. It is looking like there are multiple parts that I have to buy, but the way they were talking was like there was just going to be one.
Can someone please help link me to something that would be the correct fit? In the meantime I will continue to look. They said that I could only get it from the dealer but I do not believe that.
Hello Acura family, I am a proud owner of a wreaked 07 TL type s I purchased as a total loss, to rebuild as my daily driver since my truck is to hard on gas. I was a Honda kid in high school and am happy to be back, I have been hanging out in the Jeep forums and jaguar forums, but I have moved on and now Im here so hello everyone, now Im off to go lurk in some threads.
Because of family reasons I had to suddenly travel to Italy where I will spend one month..
I took delivery of a spanking new BMW 520d (diesel) xDrive, only 47 kilometers on the odometer.
The car is obviously not fully loaded but neither bare bone, I would say decently optioned.
Despite being 2 generations newer than the E60 5 Series that was on sale at the time of the 4G debut, it is surprising how a 4G owner would feel "at home" in this cabin with similarities in materials and assembly quality.
The main dashboard and upper door panel plastic has the same grainy feel and look of the 4G, so are the PVD trim pieces where actually the 4G had a more pleasant feel with the grid texture. Similar headliner material and rubber seals here and there. No more "vault feel" either. Same for the trunk area or the engine bay where actually the 4G is quite "tidier".
Basically it is not a cabin that would "wow" a 4G owner and make him/her feel he stepped in a higher end car from a material and assembly standpoint.....except for the technology equipment and the large high resolution infotainment screen and instrument cluster where obviously no comparison can be made given the age differences between the two cars.
For the seats there is no comparison, the 4G TL standard chairs are much more comfortable than these, you need to lay the extra thousands for the optional seats in the 5 Series to beat it.
Some may say that in the 5 Series you can get a leather wrapped dashboard and door panels, 3 different types of leather for the seats and different typed of wood or Carbon Fiber for the trim pieces...true but it is all matter of adding lipstick to the same pig so to speak.
The owner of a current Accord Touring would also feel "at home" aboard of this particular 5 Series specimen, he would have to look at the BMW logo on the steering wheel to realize that it is supposed to be a higher end car compared to his/her.
As a side note, these turbodiesel cars are amazingly fuel efficient for the power (190 horses from a 2 liter 4 banger) but the price to pay is the feeling of driving a tractor and no engine progression.....very strong diesel noise in the cabin, the Audi A6 does much better in that regard.
The G30 is a major improvement compared to the previous F10 in driving dynamics and general driving pleasure....still far from being Ghibli or CTS good but a step in the right direction back to the 5 Series roots.....
Moving from the 12 TL to the new RDX, I find the brake feel unsatisfying and uncertain. The brakes work and stop but aren't confidence inspiring, like I'm not confident the vehicle will stop when I need to brake hard. Luckily did not encounter a situation like that.
Would anyone know why the brakes feel spongy and lazy. Is there a way to improve the brake feel. What kind of brake pads does Acura use. Would choosing ceramic pads help imrpove the braking and brake feel?
Sup everyone.. So i recently bought a 1G Acura CL 3.0 on craigslist. When I first test drove it it was driving super smooth you can tell this guy that owned it took good care of it. I hooked up my scan tool and had no check engine lights and nothing had been rest recently. So I purchased it for $1,000 it has 202,000 miles on it but i just need it for my a to b car. I stop by autozone and buy some new spark plug wires,spark plugs(it had copper plugs but i upgraded to platinum) and stuff for an oil change. Everything was installed accordingly but then a couple days after my tune up I get a Random misfire code and all cylinder misfire codes. So i figure the upgraded spark plug might be drawing to much power over the old copper ones so i replaced the distributor and ignition coil and still the same issue..I tried the spark plug wire pull test and it seems like my back three cylinders don't make the engine start bogging down. Do you think i should switch back to copper plugs?
Hello, to all.
I am new to the group and Acura RLX owners. I look forward to joing conversations and learning more about the brand of Acura.
I just purchased a very clean 67K mile Tech RLX and all of a sudden I have a glove box rattle. I can that there are two solenoids that hold the glove box door closed, but it appears that they are working as designed. Has anyone else had an issue and could guve me insight on a possible solution?
Also are these transmissions prone to issues? I seem to have a shudder going from 2nd to 3rd at low speed, but it you're doing some brisk acceleration, the transmission works flawlessly.
Any insight would be great!
Thank you all again.
Richie
I have a 2005 RL. I recently replaced the door lock actuator. This morning I get a "Door Open" message when I started the car. I open and closed the door several time without being able to clear the message. I would appreciate any insight into what to look at to resolve the issue. The RL doesn't seem to have the push button door open sensor common to many other vehicles.
Maybe be you can help me pinpoint this issue i have , my car has developed a oil leak at 285000 km, the oil drips on the ground appear right under the battery and air filter area , can someone tell me what I can look at to try find what this issue can be ?
Thanks for the help !
I added spacers to my TL-S a couple of weeks ago and while tightening the lugs heard a mild 'crunch' while torquing down the security key lug. It appeared fine and so I didn't really think much more about it. Welps, went out today to do a re-tighten and this is what I found. I'm no Megamind but I don't think this is a positive development at all.
So, a couple years ago I unplugged the bluetooth module because of the battery drain issue. I was thinking about it a few days ago, and want to get it working again. So I was doing some searching and can't seem to find an OEM replacement. Seems like it is no longer available. I may try the repair by using a heat gun, but from what I have read in this forum, that is more of a temporary fix. Any leads on purchasing this part. I know getting one used is an option, but that is pretty much a crapshoot.
When I looked a few years ago, I think I remember the part was around $200 or so.
So I ran across this video earlier, from the 2014 TLX unveiling... a Mat Hargett, who was the Chief Engineer in charge of the TLX, said they they specifically made the 2.4 TLX drive sportier compared to the 3.5 as a nod to TSX owners, and the 3.5 drive more refined to appeal to the TL owners...
$100 shipped for 5 OEM TPMS sensors.
Buyer pays for the PayPal fee
They were tested at a tire shop and showed all of them are functional
They are OEM with labels on it. 2 of them are from a used wheel I bought a while ago, not sure why they were painted but you can still see the OEM labeling at a certain angle
I have an 03 acura mdx. Originally I thought the catalytic converter was clogged. Got it taken off cleaned. Car is quieter! However it seems to not want to rev over 3000 rpms when I first start driving it does fine, but after driving for a while it seems like I cant get gas. So basically I've got to let my car sit and cool off then I can drive it again. Also having issues going uphill. Though maybe gas pedal sensor, however if that's the case wouldn't it happen all the time? Any suggestions
Hi there. My wife's '18 RLX Sport Hybrid didn't come with any accessories other than the all-season mats, so I ordered up a set of body side moldings and splash guards online since I typically go with those on any Honda or Acura I have. And I almost always install them myself. The BSM's are pretty easy with the template they give you. Just take your time making sure they're following the template and clean the surface before you stick. The splash guards are typically also not a problem. Front ones involve turning the wheels, removing old screws, couple simple mods and screw it back in - piece of cake.
However, on the RLX, the instructions show the rear ones as being a bit more complicated than any others I've installed in the past. From the instructions, you remove a few screws and THEN UNCLIP THE FRONT SECTION OF THE REAR BUMPER!. Ok - this is a MSRP $63K+ vehicle that I'm going to pop off the front few clips of the rear bumper to get at a place to drill a hole to secure the rear screw of the bumper. Has anyone tackled this themselves and does the bumper easily come unclipped - and more importantly clip back cleanly? Part of me is tempted to get the dealer to put the rear ones on, but if I'm overthinking the risks here I don't have an issue doing it myself.
Anyone who has done this before,or knows enough to talk me off the edge here so I don't start worrying too much, I'd love to hear from you.
