Hello Folks!
Well because bad things happen in a strike my IACV decided it was enough! After 210,000 Miles it crapped on my almost 4 days ago (Erratic Idling, Idle too high while in Drive). So I ordered a new IACV and decided to replace it and took some pics for reference.
The part I bought is the Standard/Intermotor "AC229" not to be confused with the cheapest AC229T the "T" is for the economy version from Standard Autoparts. AC229 is the one you want for the best performance and longevity its co-made with Intermotor which is a very good brand from UK that makes Motors & Coils.
Standard/Intermotor AC229 = Cost: 79.99 + Shipping = 86 bucks
Vs OEM = DENSO "1368091011" +200-320 bucks @ Dealership (hahaha they must be high)...
Parts needed to replace:
9mm Socket (For Air Box Not needed if you have CAI/SRI)
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
Ratch
Cleaning Rag for Coolant Leaks
Philips Screwdriver
1x Throttle Body Gasket if you don't have Aftermarket Spacers.
Well this is how the AC229 comes in:
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Made in the good´ol US of A compared to DENSO which is not made in Japan but in México! "Not dissin´ just sayin´"...
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Procedure:
1.- You need to remove your air box cover you will need either a Philips screwdriver (If your screws aren't rusted) or a 9mm socket if they are rusted and you already stripped the Philips head. Once out remove your intake tube by loosing the metal brace with a 10mm socket and unplugging the 2 vacuum assisted tubes. If you have a CAI or SRI just remove it.
2.- (Type-S only skip to #3 for TL-p) you need to remove your VSA Throttle Body which is held by a metal arm from the transmission with a single 12mm socket.. Loose the metal brace with a 10mm socket and remove the 2 Coolant Passages (They will leak coolant have a rag ready).
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A trick to remove the VSA Assembly easily is by unplugging the VSA Sensor on the side and rotate the whole assembly a couple of degrees counter clock wise missing the metal arm so you can pull it out.
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3.- You need to unplug 3 cables: MAP Sensor on the Top, TPS Sensor on the side and IACV from the bottom.
Once you have done that unplug the Vacuum tube from the side by pulling it out (It should come out without pliers) and remove the 2 coolant lines in the IACV then remove the 4x 12mm bolts and nuts holding the Throttle Body into the Intake Manifold it should now come off, Don't remove your Pedal/Cruise Lines you can flip the TB 180° to remove the IACV.
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Now flip the TB 180° and you should clearly see your IACV being held into the TB by 2x Philips Screwdrivers.. If they are like mine they should un-screw easily.. If they don't you can use a Vise Grip to remove them as they stick their heads enough to have a grip on them.
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4.- Remove the old gasket and replace with the new IACV gasket included in the box. Install the new IACV carefully making sure the gasket lines up.
5.- Basically Reverse Procedure, Burp your Radiator and your DONE! :thumbsup:
Old vs New:
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Hope this Helps anyone as a Reference or as a DIY!
Well because bad things happen in a strike my IACV decided it was enough! After 210,000 Miles it crapped on my almost 4 days ago (Erratic Idling, Idle too high while in Drive). So I ordered a new IACV and decided to replace it and took some pics for reference.
The part I bought is the Standard/Intermotor "AC229" not to be confused with the cheapest AC229T the "T" is for the economy version from Standard Autoparts. AC229 is the one you want for the best performance and longevity its co-made with Intermotor which is a very good brand from UK that makes Motors & Coils.
Standard/Intermotor AC229 = Cost: 79.99 + Shipping = 86 bucks
Vs OEM = DENSO "1368091011" +200-320 bucks @ Dealership (hahaha they must be high)...
Parts needed to replace:
9mm Socket (For Air Box Not needed if you have CAI/SRI)
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
Ratch
Cleaning Rag for Coolant Leaks
Philips Screwdriver
1x Throttle Body Gasket if you don't have Aftermarket Spacers.
Well this is how the AC229 comes in:
Made in the good´ol US of A compared to DENSO which is not made in Japan but in México! "Not dissin´ just sayin´"...
Procedure:
1.- You need to remove your air box cover you will need either a Philips screwdriver (If your screws aren't rusted) or a 9mm socket if they are rusted and you already stripped the Philips head. Once out remove your intake tube by loosing the metal brace with a 10mm socket and unplugging the 2 vacuum assisted tubes. If you have a CAI or SRI just remove it.
2.- (Type-S only skip to #3 for TL-p) you need to remove your VSA Throttle Body which is held by a metal arm from the transmission with a single 12mm socket.. Loose the metal brace with a 10mm socket and remove the 2 Coolant Passages (They will leak coolant have a rag ready).
A trick to remove the VSA Assembly easily is by unplugging the VSA Sensor on the side and rotate the whole assembly a couple of degrees counter clock wise missing the metal arm so you can pull it out.
3.- You need to unplug 3 cables: MAP Sensor on the Top, TPS Sensor on the side and IACV from the bottom.
Once you have done that unplug the Vacuum tube from the side by pulling it out (It should come out without pliers) and remove the 2 coolant lines in the IACV then remove the 4x 12mm bolts and nuts holding the Throttle Body into the Intake Manifold it should now come off, Don't remove your Pedal/Cruise Lines you can flip the TB 180° to remove the IACV.
Now flip the TB 180° and you should clearly see your IACV being held into the TB by 2x Philips Screwdrivers.. If they are like mine they should un-screw easily.. If they don't you can use a Vise Grip to remove them as they stick their heads enough to have a grip on them.
4.- Remove the old gasket and replace with the new IACV gasket included in the box. Install the new IACV carefully making sure the gasket lines up.
5.- Basically Reverse Procedure, Burp your Radiator and your DONE! :thumbsup:
Old vs New:
Hope this Helps anyone as a Reference or as a DIY!