To Start: I'm driving a 2008 Acura TL Base model w/ NAV. 147,000 miles on it and it appears that some things were replaced at the 120k but not the most important things like CAM/Crank shaft position sensors, 02 Sensor, coil pack/spark plugs, etc. I've started to go through the car with my mechanic but I would like to try and knock some of the steps of troubleshooting this issue myself, to save me a lot of money and a lot of back and forth with him.
I was able to pull a lot of information from the ZR15 ODB2 reader I used to scan DTC, but dont know where I can find what these readings should look like when the car is running at optimum performance.
Backstory: I've had issues with the car since I purchased it several months ago and have gone through 3 mechanics before finding someone I can trust. While I'm going to end up having him troubleshoot and fix the major issues. The ones that I can fix myself.(spark plugs, coil replacement, O2 sensors, etc.) I would like to do what I can to save money. I'm about to go pick up a new set of NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs and begin there, but my mechanic is saying he doesn't believe it's the issue and wants me to wait. I would like to see what the guru's here think before I see him again on Monday. I have all the tools to replace the coils, spark plugs and clean the manifold and EVAP cylinder.
I've had misfire's and spark plug/coils going bad on different cylinders and i'm just tired of bringing the car in, waiting to get it back and then only to find that it continues to happen. I drive it for a week or two after they replace a coil/spark plug and as soon as i'm doing 80Mph or higher on the freeway it throws a misfire code again and sputters to the point of forcing me to drive it under 40Mph and not exceeding 3k RPM's to avoid CEL flashing on me. This time it stayed solid as long as i followed those steps and then today all of a sudden the CEL wasnt on when I started the car and it's not idling rough and I also dont feel it sputtering as bad but it's definitely driving more rough than when I got it back from this last stop at the auto shop.
Any help is appreciated greatly and I respect the expertise and knowledge from all of you!
SO here is all the info that I was able to get off the ZR15 - (Harbor Freight Tools ODBII reader that will be released soon that should be around $200)
DTC Codes
1. P0304 - Misfire on cylinder 4. It was 5 and 3 before.
2. P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction
3. P0302 - Misfire on Cylinder 2
4. P0300 - Random Misfire
Suggested issues:
*Faulty Spark Plug
*Faulty Ignition coil
*Faulty fuel injector
*Faulty Fuel pump and/or regulator
*Poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the ignition coil and under-hood fuse/relay box
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the PCM and the ignition coil
*Internal Engine Problem
*Incorrect PCM Idle learn procedure
*Incorrect CKP pattern learn procedure
*MAF Sensor
Performance Readings from the scanner:
*calculated LOAD Value: 74.1%
*Engine Coolant Temp: 190F
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.9%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.1%
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 3.1%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 2.3%
*Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 22(inHg)
*Eng RPM: 2059
*Veh Speed: 35(mph)
*Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder 18.5(°)
*Intake Air Temp: 104(°F)
*Absolute Throttle Position: 25.5(%)
*Run Time: 127 (SEC)
*Commanded EGR: 36.1(%)
*EGR: 0.0(%)
*Command EVAP 91.8(%)
*Fuel Level: 59.6(%)
*Barometric Pressure: 29(inHg)
*Control Module Voltage or ECU Volts:14.050(V)
*Absolute Load Value: 71.8(%)
*Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
*Relative Throttle Position: 19.6(%)
*Absolute Throttle Position B: 40.4(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position D: 34.9(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position E: 16.9(%)
Commanded Throttle Actuator Control: 21.2(%)
I was able to pull a lot of information from the ZR15 ODB2 reader I used to scan DTC, but dont know where I can find what these readings should look like when the car is running at optimum performance.
Backstory: I've had issues with the car since I purchased it several months ago and have gone through 3 mechanics before finding someone I can trust. While I'm going to end up having him troubleshoot and fix the major issues. The ones that I can fix myself.(spark plugs, coil replacement, O2 sensors, etc.) I would like to do what I can to save money. I'm about to go pick up a new set of NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs and begin there, but my mechanic is saying he doesn't believe it's the issue and wants me to wait. I would like to see what the guru's here think before I see him again on Monday. I have all the tools to replace the coils, spark plugs and clean the manifold and EVAP cylinder.
I've had misfire's and spark plug/coils going bad on different cylinders and i'm just tired of bringing the car in, waiting to get it back and then only to find that it continues to happen. I drive it for a week or two after they replace a coil/spark plug and as soon as i'm doing 80Mph or higher on the freeway it throws a misfire code again and sputters to the point of forcing me to drive it under 40Mph and not exceeding 3k RPM's to avoid CEL flashing on me. This time it stayed solid as long as i followed those steps and then today all of a sudden the CEL wasnt on when I started the car and it's not idling rough and I also dont feel it sputtering as bad but it's definitely driving more rough than when I got it back from this last stop at the auto shop.
Any help is appreciated greatly and I respect the expertise and knowledge from all of you!
SO here is all the info that I was able to get off the ZR15 - (Harbor Freight Tools ODBII reader that will be released soon that should be around $200)
DTC Codes
1. P0304 - Misfire on cylinder 4. It was 5 and 3 before.
2. P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction
3. P0302 - Misfire on Cylinder 2
4. P0300 - Random Misfire
Suggested issues:
*Faulty Spark Plug
*Faulty Ignition coil
*Faulty fuel injector
*Faulty Fuel pump and/or regulator
*Poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the ignition coil and under-hood fuse/relay box
*"Open" or "Short" circuit between the PCM and the ignition coil
*Internal Engine Problem
*Incorrect PCM Idle learn procedure
*Incorrect CKP pattern learn procedure
*MAF Sensor
Performance Readings from the scanner:
*calculated LOAD Value: 74.1%
*Engine Coolant Temp: 190F
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.9%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.1%
*Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 3.1%
*Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 2.3%
*Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 22(inHg)
*Eng RPM: 2059
*Veh Speed: 35(mph)
*Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder 18.5(°)
*Intake Air Temp: 104(°F)
*Absolute Throttle Position: 25.5(%)
*Run Time: 127 (SEC)
*Commanded EGR: 36.1(%)
*EGR: 0.0(%)
*Command EVAP 91.8(%)
*Fuel Level: 59.6(%)
*Barometric Pressure: 29(inHg)
*Control Module Voltage or ECU Volts:14.050(V)
*Absolute Load Value: 71.8(%)
*Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
*Relative Throttle Position: 19.6(%)
*Absolute Throttle Position B: 40.4(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position D: 34.9(%)
*Accelerator Pedal Position E: 16.9(%)
Commanded Throttle Actuator Control: 21.2(%)